Before and After - Restoration

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Maybe its interesting for someone who think his knife is done. You can save the most knives!

Before:
HVhSAPK.jpg


After:
R3v4SKQ.jpg

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Before:
ciEGa8N.jpg


After:

g7rbSQF.jpg


Only After Pic (Knife was totaly chiped and scratched):
fyTJZTa.jpg






 
Could you explain what it was you did to get those knives back into shape? I'm sure a lot of people would be interested.
 
Could you explain what it was you did to get those knives back into shape? I'm sure a lot of people would be interested.

Hello,
I must go to sleep now because its 0:30Am here in Germany :( but I will write a new post how easy it is.
It's unbelievable but the Damascus knife from last picture was fixed in less then half an hour of working time (without etching).
But I can tell you now "Hilti WFO 280" makes knifes great again in a few minutes.
 
Very nice work.

What can you tell me about the stone in the Santoku after pic?
 
Could you explain what it was you did to get those knives back into shape? I'm sure a lot of people would be interested.

Step1:
Remove dirt and rust with a rust eraser

Notification:
If rust is under the handle, remove it!

Step2:
Remove Chips with a water cooled grinding wheel (90° angle).

Step3:
3.1 Remove scratches with a sander. I tighten a sander up side down in a vise.
3.1 Beginning sanding with ~P240 water resistant sand paper and a few drops of water! Never use to much water! Take care there is no water inside elektrical parts!
3.2 If there is a similar scratch patern change paper do next grid! I go 240->400->600->800->1500->2000->3000->5000
Notification: P2000 = ~8000 japanese stone
3.3 polish with chrom metall polish

Step4:
sharpening -> finish

Notification:
If you have a damascus knife you must etch it after sanding and before the polish paste. Maybe i make a video next time.





 
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Just out of curiousity, did you have to use multiple sheets of each grit sandpaper for the misono restoration, or was one sheet at each grit sufficient? I am going out to buy sandpaper in that grit progression today.
 
Step1:
Remove dirt and rust with a rust eraser

Notification:
If rust is under the handle, remove it!

Step2:
Remove Chips with a water cooled grinding wheel (90° angle).

Step3:
3.1 Remove scratches with a sander. I tighten a sander up side down in a vise.
3.1 Beginning sanding with ~P240 water resistant sand paper and a few drops of water! Never use to much water! Take care there is no water inside elektrical parts!
3.2 If there is a similar scratch patern change paper do next grid! I go 240->400->600->800->1500->2000->3000->5000
Notification: P2000 = ~8000 japanese stone
3.3 polish with chrom metall polish

Step4:
sharpening -> finish

Notification:
If you have a damascus knife you must etch it after sanding and before the polish paste. Maybe i make a video next time.






A newbie question: Is this general process affect the heat treatment?
 
As a matter of fact, I was just down in the workshop taking a knife through the progression. It was a knife that I thinned on some pretty coarse stones. Unfortunately, I moved off of the coarser paper a little early. I didn't see some faint scratches that didn't sand out, until after I got to 1000. So I will have to start on it again on my next day off. Despite the faint scratches, it still looks much better. In fact, only I would really notice them. Still going to use the blade at work tomorrow.

I can tell this technique is going to help me bring a few of my knives back life. Thank you for posting it!
 
Oh nice :) Do you have a before and after picture? If you have deep scratches start with lower grit (~240). If you practice this method two or three times you will get a 100% perfekt result.
 
I didnt take a before, but I will on my next project. I did some thinning on a Tadatsuna Inox. In fact, I regret not taking a choil shot before the thinning. It had a nice sharp edge but had a noticable shoulder right behind the edge. I spent hours trying to ease that. This will be my next polishing project.
 
I have a hobby belt sander from Peugeot and tryed it. It´s very dangerous for your knife. You have only ~3 seconds for thinning and then you must cool it down in water. i don´t recommend this method with high price knives.
But with the sander it stays cool.
 
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