Best buffer, wheels, and buffering agents for polishing?

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Smashmasta

Smashmasta

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Looking to get a buffer for polishing, etc, on knives. I've talked to Jon, and he uses an Eastwood buffer, but says he's not super into it. Obviously he makes it work, but before I commit to that one, does anyone else have any suggestions on brands/types, and the best places to get different wheels and buffering agents/particles? Thanks.
 
Lots of different buffs to chose from. All depends on what you’re are trying to do and where you are starting from (knife repair, production, etc.)
 
Also, any HP and RPM recommendations? I shouldn't need more than 1 HP, right? The cheapest Baldor has is either a .33HP at 3600RPM, or a .25 HP at 1800RPM.
 
Smashmasta said:
I must've misheard you, sorry! How about the best place to get the wheels? I'd be doing knife repair/refinishing/polishing?
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no... you heard right... i've got the eastwood one. I want a baldor one, but it was just too much money for something i dont use that much.

On the wheels and buffing materials, it depends on what you need. I use a few different places, and even had one company custom make wheels for me once.
 
I had a Baldor and now have an Eastwood. I can't find any appreciable difference to justify the cost.
 
dwalker said:
I had a Baldor and now have an Eastwood. I can't find any appreciable difference to justify the cost.
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i've found the baldor to run smoother and i like the overbuilt quality. I also wish i had one with a vfd.
 
Prefer a thick buffing pad mounted horizonal on a drill press. Runs slower and have more control than the vertical.
 
JBroida said:
i've found the baldor to run smoother and i like the overbuilt quality. I also wish i had one with a vfd.
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How often do you find yourself wanting a vfd? Do you use different speeds for different things? I supposeI could get the best bang for my buck by getting an eastwood and a vfd...
 
OK, how about this - can you guys break down the uses for each type of wheel you use, and the wheel types themselves? How many wheels does one need if they are restoring and polishing 98% of the time?
 
I use big water wheels, belt, and few different buffing machines machines.

How much repair work do you plan on doing?

How polished do you want to go? Mirror finishes or polished enough to look new like a Mac or ginga knife?
 
Keith Sinclair said:
Prefer a thick buffing pad mounted horizonal on a drill press. Runs slower and have more control than the vertical.
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This is what I currently use. $50 drill press from Craigslist, 8 inch cotton wheel and a $6 chuck adapter. The drill press is far more useful for making handles and cutting tang holes in handles.
 
Baldor makes a nice buffer for sure. I have 2 of them, used for sharpening wheels and buffs since 2004, very reliable and smooth operating machines. One of these buffers ran nearly all day long for years when I had a mobile sharpening truck. Bot of mine are the small 1800 RPM models.

I also have another no-name (Chinese made?) monster sized low RPM (1100?) buffer that I run 10" hard spiral sewn wheels for de-burring large convex bevels found on axes, meat cleavers, etc. This isn't used much at all so even though it's a cheap machine it serves it's purpose and will likely do so for a long time, it's been 14 yrs already.



Smashmasta said:
OK, how about this - can you guys break down the uses for each type of wheel you use, and the wheel types themselves? How many wheels does one need if they are restoring and polishing 98% of the time?
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This is a super hard question to answer, even the casual user could write a short novel on the subject. You might want to be more specific in your questions, regarding your intended use and what you're trying to accomplish.

The main factors that you have to consider that need to be matched to your job...

Buff/wheel speed

Buff type

Compound
 
And while I'm no Safety Sally I need to mention that knives are not easy to buff. The wheel wants to grab edges and take the knife from you. A knife in the foot will probably ruin the fun quickly.
 
If you want to try many different wheels/compound combos you may want to consider using tapers to start with. You can add and remove wheels quickly using these things. These are right and left side specific. Get the right one and make sure it's the correct thread size too.

BuffingWheelTapers.jpg
 
Smashmasta said:
As for specifics, I'm not doing any knife making at. I'd be doing mild knife restoration, from removing/reducing pitting, softening edges, choils and spines, buffing handles, deburring, polishing - idealy up to mirror polish.
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Sounds like you might be asking too much of a buffer. While it's true that really course compounds and hard wheels can remove some pitting/damage you'd likely be better served with a belt grinder. Use the belts to remove damage and bring to near final finish and then buff. Plus a belt can do spine/choil rounding more effectively too.

Also worth noting is that getting a mirror finish isn't an easy task at all to do. There's very shiny and then there's mirror, the latter takes a lot of steps done perfectly to achieve. The buffing steps are just the final steps.
 
Dave Martell said:
Sounds like you might be asking too much of a buffer. While it's true that really course compounds and hard wheels can remove some pitting/damage you'd likely be better served with a belt grinder. Use the belts to remove damage and bring to near final finish and then buff. Plus a belt can do spine/choil rounding more effectively too.

Also worth noting is that getting a mirror finish isn't an easy task at all to do. There's very shiny and then there's mirror, the latter takes a lot of steps done perfectly to achieve. The buffing steps are just the final steps.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Alright, let's go with just shining things up for now. What wheels and compounds would you suggest for that?
 
Dave Martell said:
And while I'm no Safety Sally I need to mention that knives are not easy to buff. The wheel wants to grab edges and take the knife from you. A knife in the foot will probably ruin the fun quickly.
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Or this happens ...
https://imgur.com/a/hwqns1c

I did this in April. Was at the end of a busy day and had been rushing around with no breaks. So operating machinery while very exhausted is something you should never do. Was buffing a the face of a knife and made a mistake. Buff grabbed the knife and did this in the process.

Always be safe. We was lucky I didn’t lose a finger or require any stitches.
 
Compound(s)
Black is most aggresive
green is for polishing stainless steel
Blue and red ( high polish)
Autosol .. FInal rough polish
Pikal .. Japanese polish.. finer than Autosol. great for light polishing
Mothers rubbing compound... i read that they are the good too

at the end of the day.... i am an Autosol man. Pikal used mainly for removing etching lightly on honyakis

Wheels.
The tighter (sewn together) and harder they are , they are going to take off more surface metal

Softer ones are great for the final finish

Safety..
a.the tip is a bit tricky.. the tip shld always be pointing point on the wheel... in direction of rotation of wheel. Tip with lateral movement tends to swing it strongly

b. Best to make a backing of wood for the blade... and secure the the neck of knife with a u shape meal piece and insert the tang.. Just as in the videos of the men at the sharpening wheels.. IF handle still attached.. securing it with 2 pieces of wood at the neck will limit the movt of blade. I prefer the former..

I use a a big china made one for more than 10 years (50 USD) and recently added a tiny one ( 40USD) with variable speed.. very suitable for final polish with 4 inch wheels. may add another tiny one as i dont have to change wheels.. Great for polishing wood with carnuba wax too

I bought a 3M scoth brite wheel .. great for rust removal... used it for a while till the arbour (hole ) became too big for the spindle.

Be safe, watch those fingers and
 
zitangy said:
Compound(s)
Black is most aggresive
green is for polishing stainless steel
Blue and red ( high polish)
Autosol .. FInal rough polish
Pikal .. Japanese polish.. finer than Autosol. great for light polishing
Mothers rubbing compound... i read that they are the good too

at the end of the day.... i am an Autosol man. Pikal used mainly for removing etching lightly on honyakis

Wheels.
The tighter (sewn together) and harder they are , they are going to take off more surface metal

Softer ones are great for the final finish

Safety..
a.the tip is a bit tricky.. the tip shld always be pointing point on the wheel... in direction of rotation of wheel. Tip with lateral movement tends to swing it strongly

b. Best to make a backing of wood for the blade... and secure the the neck of knife with a u shape meal piece and insert the tang.. Just as in the videos of the men at the sharpening wheels.. IF handle still attached.. securing it with 2 pieces of wood at the neck will limit the movt of blade. I prefer the former..

I use a a big china made one for more than 10 years (50 USD) and recently added a tiny one ( 40USD) with variable speed.. very suitable for final polish with 4 inch wheels. may add another tiny one as i dont have to change wheels.. Great for polishing wood with carnuba wax too

I bought a 3M scoth brite wheel .. great for rust removal... used it for a while till the arbour (hole ) became too big for the spindle.

Be safe, watch those fingers and
Click to expand...


Awesome, man, thanks a lot! Is there a particular website you go to that carries the majority of this stuff?
 
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