Black snot and steel splinters #2

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I saw that on ig. Looked interesting and loved the look of the kurochi.
 
Looks good cleavers are interesting I have an ittinomonn from maxim she's a bulky beast at 675 grms though. Any reason you went ku over your usual 600 grit finish, a double hollow ground(is that what it's callled) cleaver frim you I imagine would be super light and a slicing machine. My big issue with them is 98% of cleavers have crap handles. That one looks good though. It's funny when I saw your recent pic on ig of a bunch of your knives laid out I thought you did a rehandle job on it. Glad to see your trying some new shapes. Look forward to seeing the RDalman Katana. :doublethumbsup:
 
Yea, this one is very thin on tye edge and a good bit up, but with 3,5 mm stock it weighs in a 470 grams with handle. I wanted to try KU finish on carbon steel as I enjoy "rough" looks with polished details. I will probably play around more with this, I'm also considering claying up the edge portion and doing extended normalizing cycles to get a heavily decarbed surface, that can look pretty neat imo :)

Haha I don't know about katana though. Nakiri, suji and paring knives next.
 
LifeByA1000Cuts said:
Regarding Katanas:

http://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/s...ven-make-sense?p=336209&viewfull=1#post336209

BTW, would you be ever willing to do a non-trivial knife under the constraint of the materials and consumables themselves being vegetarian, as in no horn, bone, shellac, bone glues, leather... used?
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That would be no trouble, for when/if I start doing custom orders again. Any knife I do now without horn is vegetarian in that sense, no animal products other than that.
 
MAS4T0 said:
Wouldn't horn technically be vegetarian (just not vegan) as you don't need to kill the animal to harvest it?
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I can't make out a difference to tell fellhorn from slaughterhorn, only guesswork :)
 
Yes, it sounds strange as hell anyway. To some vegetarian and vegan people (and I refuse to judge them unless they judge me) horn parts would even be a reason to refuse buying the knife (to a vegan, the market is a ballot where a vote is cast with a choice of merchandise - and slaughter byproducts are not exempt); to many of the rest the use of such materials will at least be a defect instead of something that adds value, and they will certainly go for a pakka, metal or plastic ferrule instead of horn if it is an option on the same blade.
 
Can I pick your head on the subject of visible sharpened edge? How would you feel about getting something like this? My current process is that I shape the bevel/edge geometry on 60grit belt platen and 140 grit atoma plate, then I climb the blade finish to 600 on the belts and hand finish. After that I need to sharpen again and doing that on a higher angle rubs me the wrong way so to speak. What I've been doing is "masking" this sharpened bevel by careful long strokes with 600 grit rubber backed paper. But really; is there anything wrong with a larger shiny bevel in your opinion?

What matters most to me is sending out the best edges I can... I am sending out the passaround knife like this also.

Imo it's up to the end user to adjust the edge to their needs, but I want to send one out that's on the thinner side rather than something that needs thinning ootb, without sending out something that feels fragile to too many. This kind of edge is very close to zero down up to the kind of shinogi my knives have, if one wants to go that route. (halleluja pics uploaded)

View attachment 32115View attachment 32116
 
Big thanks to The Haas family for these beautiful bars :D The feather and one san mai are not spoken for.
DSC_2361.JPG
 
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I cannot view the attachment. Is this a problem on my site or are more ppl having this problem?
 
mark76 said:
I cannot view the attachment. Is this a problem on my site or are more ppl having this problem?
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Strange. I can.. Anyway it's the same as I posted on fora, that feather is eyecatching indeed. I'm pretty excited about making knives out of them.
 
Neither can I so I always have to go to the fora to check for updates
 
^^^ @ chucka chucka ... Gimme gimme gimme !!!

Lol. We need more custom cleavers .

[emoji173]️[emoji173]️[emoji173]️[emoji173]️[emoji169]
 
hambone.johnson said:
^^^ @ chucka chucka ... Gimme gimme gimme !!!

Lol. We need more custom cleavers .

[emoji173]️[emoji173]️[emoji173]️[emoji173]️[emoji169]
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Haha I agree :) thanks!

After some tooling issues and a slow heat treatment I'm going to try and catch up. I hope everyone is updated on their orders, if not feel free to ask... There can be a week or two delays on everything currently than what I have estimated.
 
I have a fancy project in the works and the handle is ready; musk ox, stabilized bog oak and nickelsilver at a handrubbed 12000 grit. I had to buy a full musk ox horn to be able to get blocks for this handle. It will pair up with a 240 gyuto in HHH feather damascus, and get a ringed gidgee saya.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BKkv75ZjWPg/
 
How does your UHB20C compare to Hitachi Blue? I mean, I've looked at the charts on ZKnives, but how does it compare, subjectively, in sharpening and edge-holding? What color patina does it take when exposed to onion? Is it still restricted to ~210mm for you?
 
I have to answer a bit later Mike. Just wanted to put this here, gotta go :)

[video=youtube;oz0EfntTf2Q]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oz0EfntTf2Q[/video]
 
DanHumphrey said:
How does your UHB20C compare to Hitachi Blue? I mean, I've looked at the charts on ZKnives, but how does it compare, subjectively, in sharpening and edge-holding? What color patina does it take when exposed to onion? Is it still restricted to ~210mm for you?
Click to expand...

I haven't tried a hitachi blue I liked so I can't say really. I mean that the blue I tried felt like it was poorly heat treated so I don't want to judge based on that. Uhb20c is actually a 1095 equivalent, no fancy stuff on paper, but I've seen three batch analysis from uddeholm and carbon have been on the upper limit or a hair above, and they've been super clean, so I guess that that combined with a decent HT I do, makes it act more like a good white 2, or vetter, I want to believe of course ;)
I've gotten some feedback in line with my own impression on reactivity, quite quick to take a grey patina and settle down. Especially if I have given it a ferric chloride wash and polished that off. Seems to calm the initial reactivity. I believe I can do up to almost 400 edge now 👍
 
And I should explain the video a bit better... What I'm evaluating here is just how the first 10 mm of the edge-bevel feels like, since I tried hollow grinding just by the edge up to shinogi. The rest of the chuka is warped pretty badly and that affects it, vacuum wedge up on the right side. Since it warped I used it for this edge experiment, will keep it for myself.. And maybe my speaking doesn't make total sense, I woke up super early, 3 am, and decided to go work 12 hours, this video is just when I got home haha.
 
I cooked a little soup and am getting a little excited, Bäbefore I put a 10k chosera edge on and stropped onleather. I'll get carrots, and do that test Mikedtran did, and reach out to hear comparison, ofc it's possibly not a 100% relieble, but anyway. I may also do another video and see if I can show it in a more impressive way.
After that the cleaver goes to my swedish tester Robin. And a fresh passaround knife will be made.
 
RDalman said:
I haven't tried a hitachi blue I liked so I can't say really. I mean that the blue I tried felt like it was poorly heat treated so I don't want to judge based on that. Uhb20c is actually a 1095 equivalent, no fancy stuff on paper, but I've seen three batch analysis from uddeholm and carbon have been on the upper limit or a hair above, and they've been super clean, so I guess that that combined with a decent HT I do, makes it act more like a good white 2, or vetter, I want to believe of course ;)
I've gotten some feedback in line with my own impression on reactivity, quite quick to take a grey patina and settle down. Especially if I have given it a ferric chloride wash and polished that off. Seems to calm the initial reactivity. I believe I can do up to almost 400 edge now 👍
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Thanks! A grey patina is fine; the thing that kills me is my Tanaka going to ugly orange if it's next to an onion, no matter how fast you wipe it down. Grey is what the knives I used growing up turned.

Also, part of what I was wondering was about sharpening - I almost prefer the theoretical difficulty of Blue, because I'm too heavy-handed for White. Maybe. Anyway, I seem to put a better edge on Blue, more easily, than White.
 
Just a bit of update. My grind consistency is where I want it, and I'm looking to finish the list of customs and after that work in small batches and sell as they get done. So.. Up my productivity game, not take customs for a good while or indefinately. Handles are most likely going to be wa construction reindeer and masur birch as "standard" for the batches.
 
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