It would work fine if your technique is good. Edge leading will generally cause less problems.
chinese cleaver questions
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It would work fine if your technique is good. Edge leading will generally cause less problems.
Agreed. If you're using a rod and maintaining a proper edge, then you should be able to transfer that over to a stone. Both methods require you to hold a certain and consistent angle.
When working with a stone, don't feel like you have to go fast, especially if you're using classic back and forth strokes. mark your edge with Sharpie and run it down the stone. Observe the marker and your edge. Re-mark, adjust your angle if necessary and do it again. Maybe make two or three strokes. In the beginning, you're trying to educate yourself about how your holding the knife but also recognizing that there is likely some inconsistencies in the "factory" grind.
Don't stress out over it. Relax and take your time. It'll come.
thank for infoAgreed. If you're using a rod and maintaining a proper edge, then you should be able to transfer that over to a stone. Both methods require you to hold a certain and consistent angle.
When working with a stone, don't feel like you have to go fast, especially if you're using classic back and forth strokes. mark your edge with Sharpie and run it down the stone. Observe the marker and your edge. Re-mark, adjust your angle if necessary and do it again. Maybe make two or three strokes. In the beginning, you're trying to educate yourself about how your holding the knife but also recognizing that there is likely some inconsistencies in the "factory" grind.
Don't stress out over it. Relax and take your time. It'll come.
should i sharpen the heel and tip of the vegetable cleaver more like vincent shows in this video ?
btw i am asking all this questions because i dont have any experience with sharpening chinese vegetable cleavers
As others have said, just sharpen it like you do any other knife. Keep it simple.
After you've sharpened your clever about a hundred times and consistently get excellent edges, then maybe come back and see what a master sharpener does.
After you've sharpened your clever about a hundred times and consistently get excellent edges, then maybe come back and see what a master sharpener does.
If you slide a knife gently along the wetted stone, edge leading, at a very low angle so that the very edge does not yet contact the stone it will slide easily. If you then gradually lift the spine as you are sliding the knife forward, the very edge at some point will make contact with the stone and will slow down because the friction increases when the sharp edge starts to bite, and the sound will also get louder, and thats your angle. That's what I do, anyway, though I'm not an expert. I make a mental note of that angle and try to maintain that through the process, though by feel and sound you'll know you are there. After a while you'll automatically do that trick to find the edge without even realizing that's what you're doing because with practice it only takes about a second.
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The burr always forms on the opposite side of the abrasive regardless of direction of travel. The burr is just a very thin layer of metal that doesn't quite get abraded away so it rolls over.
Where is this magical land of sharpening stone paved streets?
I fixed the tip of my work knife on the sidewalk outside yesterday.
Is your sidewalk made of arks?
It's either concrete or cement I can never remember the difference. About 25 grit or so. Leaves some pretty deep scratches.
tostadas
Hobbyist / Craftsman
Gives new meaning to the term "street food"
Haha! May be more common that you think, particularly in Europe; many, maybe even most, of the world's natural sharpening stones were quarried alongside the far larger and more profitable business of quarrying building stones. Screenshots below nabbed from various places...
Llyn Melynllyn stones line the streets of north Wales:
Charnleys make nice houses for the living:
And Hindostans for the dead:
May god have mercy on your soul however, should you use the Wastikivi stone for your garden path:
---
And as a special bonus... this is probably the best whetstone I've found/made. I'm pretty sure it was a piece of paving slate originally:
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Sharpie and raising your elbow as you moving into the curve.
3 questions i have been woundering about
1. it it a must to raise a burr in order to have a sharp knife?
2. on symetrical grind knifes how do you make sure you sharpen the same at both sides?
3. if you sharpened a couple of time and failed to raise a burr do you switch sides to keep the amount of sharpening on both sides the same ?
1. it it a must to raise a burr in order to have a sharp knife?
2. on symetrical grind knifes how do you make sure you sharpen the same at both sides?
3. if you sharpened a couple of time and failed to raise a burr do you switch sides to keep the amount of sharpening on both sides the same ?
1. Yes. There can be some exceptions but that is more advanced stuff so don't worry about it. The burr is your signal that you've apexed the edge on that side and can progress to the next side.
2. Don't get hung up on counting strokes or trying to keep everything super even. This is more important in a lot of thinning but in not basic sharpening. Struggling to find the burr because you aren't sure what you're doing is going to result in a lot more material loss than understanding things and then achieving them. Once you know what you're feeling for, with most steels, achieving an apex (burr) on both sides comes pretty quickly so material loss isn't generally a big issue.
3. There are some exceptions, but again, more advanced stuff, so for right now, raise the burr before you switch. Right now, you're trying to understand what that burr feels like, the look of the angle, etc.
Focus on the basics and don't let things overcomplicate the task. If you're flustered, walk away. You'll get it.
2. Don't get hung up on counting strokes or trying to keep everything super even. This is more important in a lot of thinning but in not basic sharpening. Struggling to find the burr because you aren't sure what you're doing is going to result in a lot more material loss than understanding things and then achieving them. Once you know what you're feeling for, with most steels, achieving an apex (burr) on both sides comes pretty quickly so material loss isn't generally a big issue.
3. There are some exceptions, but again, more advanced stuff, so for right now, raise the burr before you switch. Right now, you're trying to understand what that burr feels like, the look of the angle, etc.
Focus on the basics and don't let things overcomplicate the task. If you're flustered, walk away. You'll get it.
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Here are some shots of the tip I fixed on the sidewalk. I should have thought to take a before shot. I leave this knife on the station for anyone to use. Someone had dropped it tip first onto the floor. The last quarter inch was both badly chipped and bent. Ground through the damage on the sidewalk in a couple of minutes.
i did this method on my strong side it worked like magic on the other side my weak side (the side i find harder to sharpen ) it was very hard to find the angle with this method
do you also find it harder to find the angle on your nondominant side (when you flip overr the knife)?
I find it pretty easy unless the knife is extremely dull. Maybe you're overthinking it. Anyway, once you have the angle on one side approximate the same angle on the other side (assuming a 50/50 bevel).
i do all my sharpening with the 800 grit stone...
after i establish burr on both sides i wash the stone to remove the sludge and metal particles in order to strop on the stone to deburr
is it bad to do that is it good ?
i do that because i remember someone in the forum told me to do so i dont remember who
after i establish burr on both sides i wash the stone to remove the sludge and metal particles in order to strop on the stone to deburr
is it bad to do that is it good ?
i do that because i remember someone in the forum told me to do so i dont remember who
i have an ikea knife that is simmilar to a wusthof in the design and this thing is awfull to halve sweet potato but cutting things like cucumbers tomato potato its very good. ive sharpened it and the edge is very sharp
why is it so bad for cutting hard things like carrots sweet potatoes and butternut squash espicially for halving them (cutting them in half) also sometimes when dicing onions?
link to knife
https://www.amazon.de/-/en/GYNNSAM-Gastronomy-Guarantee-Molybdenum-Vanadium/dp/B00GUELB8U
why is it so bad for cutting hard things like carrots sweet potatoes and butternut squash espicially for halving them (cutting them in half) also sometimes when dicing onions?
link to knife
https://www.amazon.de/-/en/GYNNSAM-Gastronomy-Guarantee-Molybdenum-Vanadium/dp/B00GUELB8U
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My guess is it's very fat behind the edge.
for doing this it feels like its stuck the tip of knife is sharp but once it gets inside the onion it gets hard to push it when it getts to the middle of the onion even more so
from what bensur says its Krupp's 4116 steel you think thinning can be done?
https://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/...that-cant-cut-tomatoes-well.54248/post-854534
Sure. You can thin anything. Just sharpen at an angle that's flatter than your cutting bevel and you are thinning.
