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coarse in winter times

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Simme

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Winter is coming in Denmark and i need a project. So thinning a yxr7 gyuto and knocking of primary bevels of my knives.(the project)
Im looking for a set of coarse stones to tackle the yxr7 but mostly maintence thinning when im sharpening.

My steels
B2
5100
R2
yxr7
ginsan

My stones
jns 800
jns red synth aoto
kitayama 6k
dmd
1k
3k
6k
12k

im looking at
low grit
nanohone 200
sg 220
sp 220
sigma 220

med crit
morihei 500
nanohone 400
sg Dthick 500

The Sg and nanohones i can order from the same shop, so less shipping.

Plz chip in.
yours Simon
based in EU
 

jwthaparc

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I use a shapton pro 120, its insanely fast, that or an atoma 140, but it can get worn fairly quickly, however the added benefit of being flat does help.
 

SeattleBen

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Heresay here, but the Nanohones are supposed to be softer than the Shaptons at that range as well as almost half again as expensive.

My experience with really coarse stones vs the diamond plate is that the plates are super fast until they start to wear out and then they're toast. Again they're quite a bit more expensive than the respective stones so unless you're in that demographic for whom money isn't an issue at all I'd stick to stones. The accepted wisdom is that they all sort of suck for feedback, are all soft enough that they don't last so long, and are all cheap enough generally that you should just buy one and burn it up.
 

HumbleHomeCook

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The Baryonyx Manticore is very effective at metal removal and can be used with water or oil. They commonly need to be scuffed up at first to start releasing grit. I scrubbed mine with a nail and it got going.

I've never used it to thin a knife so I can't really say what the scratches would be like but I do know that it can quickly reprofile and set an edge on some thick dull knives.
 

ian

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Sigma 240 is fast as hell, and sounds / feels terrible. It cuts much faster than it dishes. SG 220 feel great, cuts reasonably fast, but dishes just as fast.

SG 500 feels really great and smooth and doesn’t dish as fast. Good edges on stainless too.
 

Benuser

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You may consider automotive sandpaper as well. Cheap and very fast. Used with a somewhat giving backing — hard rubber, soft wood — you get a smooth convexed result. With a hard backing like a tile you can work very precisely but have to correct facetting afterwards. I normally start at P120, if it is your first use of sandpaper it might be more prudent to start at P240.
Warnings:
Edge trailing only, or you may cause overgrindinds by inadvertance. Stay away from the very edge to avoid its rounding. Use a marker. Having to correct it makes your previous work worthless, and means a considerable waste of material — blade width.
The friction will produce some heat. Take your time, work by little steps, check whether you still may touch the steel close to the edge — a safe criterion.
 
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