Couple of basic questions!

Kitchen Knife Forums

Help Support Kitchen Knife Forums:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

bcemail

Active Member
Joined
Nov 4, 2021
Messages
32
Reaction score
4
Location
USAA
OK, I have been using a Zwilling 8" chef's knife for about 20 years at home. I'm OK at sharpening, sometimes I think I've got it down, and other times it doesn't work so well! I've got a couple different stones, I think one is 400/1000 and one is 1000/2000 or something like that. I've also always used a honing rod for touch ups and I've got some green stropping compound I've tried as well.

Not too long ago I got a new knife, an aogami super nakiri from Shiro Kamo which I really like. Shinko Seilan Aogami Super Nakiri 180 mm by Shiro Kamo
It's not my daily knife, so I haven't had to do much sharpening yet. First, should I be using a honing rod? I thought I had read that with harder Japanese steels you're not supposed to. If not, is there something easy for touch-ups here and there, other than getting my stones out and soaking them?

Naturally, since I got a new knife I now want more new knives! (thanks, guys). I think it will be a gyuto since I'm so used to the chef knife style and that's what I like to use and would like the price in the neighborhood of $150. I'm mostly set on 240mm and would prefer something other than just stainless. I found that Shiro Kamo also makes a 240mm gyuto, so maybe I'll just stick with him? Shinko Seilan Aogami Super Gyuto 240 mm by Shiro Kamo
Any other good values that I should look for? I've check the For Sale thread but most of the stuff on there seems to be higher level, although I'm sure some people around here have knives that might fit the bill.

Thanks for the help!
 
First, should I be using a honing rod? I thought I had read that with harder Japanese steels you're not supposed to. If not, is there something easy for touch-ups here and there, other than getting my stones out and soaking them?
Honing steel is not recommended. You can extend the life of your edges with a strop, either a leather one, or newspaper wrapped around your stone, or some cardboard, or a piece of balsa wood. Doesn't need to be fancy. You could also just strop it on your highest stone between full sharpenings.
 
Honing steel is not recommended. You can extend the life of your edges with a strop, either a leather one, or newspaper wrapped around your stone, or some cardboard, or a piece of balsa wood. Doesn't need to be fancy. You could also just strop it on your highest stone between full sharpenings.
Perfect thanks! Should I use the green compound or not necessary? Also, is stropping always blade trailing strokes?
 
Perfect thanks! Should I use the green compound or not necessary? Also, is stropping always blade trailing strokes?
You can try the green compound if you want. It wasn't for me, tends to polish out any teeth you have on the edge and just a pain to deal with in general.

Stropping on anything but a stone is edge trailing. On stone you can go either way. I always end on a couple edge leading strokes when on stones. I find it more effective at eliminating any burr that might still be hanging on.
 
I like to strop simply with standard printer paper on a hard flat surface like a kitchen counter. It works and costs nothing.
 
Sounds good thanks! For paper, leather, etc is it just that it has very fine texture?
 
Sounds good thanks! For paper, leather, etc is it just that it has very fine texture?
They won't do much that will last. Cardboard and the ink of newspaper (tabloids!) though do have some abrasive function. Don't exaggerate with cardboard or you will create a new burr.
 
Last edited:
You can try the green compound if you want. It wasn't for me, tends to polish out any teeth you have on the edge and just a pain to deal with in general.

Stropping on anything but a stone is edge trailing. On stone you can go either way. I always end on a couple edge leading strokes when on stones. I find it more effective at eliminating any burr that might still be hanging on.
When I used green compound stropping on my Henckels 4star chef knife using my Worksharp it cut better. I noticed right away on an onion. Tomatoes were great also. My only problem was I tried to run my leather stropping belt on high and broke it. I did a bunch of knives on low, but I thought I would try high, and it broke.
 
When I used green compound stropping on my Henckels 4star chef knife using my Worksharp it cut better. I noticed right away on an onion. Tomatoes were great also. My only problem was I tried to run my leather stropping belt on high and broke it. I did a bunch of knives on low, but I thought I would try high, and it broke.

Flip one of your used belts inside out and use the back side for stropping. Lots of folks go that route.
 
They won't do much that will last. Cardboard and the ink of newspaper (tabloids!) though do have some abrasive function. Don't exaggerate with cardboard or you will create a new burr.

Do they do anything? Or it just lasts for a short time?

When I used green compound stropping on my Henckels 4star chef knife using my Worksharp it cut better. I noticed right away on an onion. Tomatoes were great also. My only problem was I tried to run my leather stropping belt on high and broke it. I did a bunch of knives on low, but I thought I would try high, and it broke.

Does the Worksharp have something specific for stropping? I was considering trying one out. How do you like it?
 
Do they do anything? Or it just lasts for a short time?
Both cardboard and newspaper ink work as an abrasive, the first being coarser than the second. You will find traces of the steel on the cardboard. Newspaper ink delivers a very nice bite to a perhaps overly polished edge.
 
I just ordered two 1 x 18 inches leather belts for stropping since I broke my other one for my Worksharp Ken Onion attachment. I want to get back to stropping.
 
Back
Top