But you did find a limit in usability and that counts as a win.
Cuting test challenge
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Carl Kotte
Senior Member
A serrated scalpel. For some reason that sounds very nice, or at least very interesting. Were there any obvious disadvantages having such a toothy edge?
Not for cutting chunks of fruit. I wouldn't try to use it to slice sashimi.
Carl Kotte
Senior Member
Sure, but that is what electric bread saws are for [emoji12]
Interesting. With pineapple that seems like a good idea. Maybe with something like apples, it would decrease the oxidation time?
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There is just so much wrong in this video. [emoji15] l didn’t know if we were going to see blood or worse and watching it multiple times didn’t help. [emoji23]
I know... I felt genuine fear when he corrected the sheet covering his privates and the knife came near!
If you are preferring thin grinds and a tothy edge, get some tougher steel ....
Shirogami or VG10 is not the way to go for this, AEB-L, Chipper steel or CPM3V will be much better for this kind of job, even 1.4116 with low hardness will be better
But to thin and to much abuse they will bend, not much better than chipping to repair, but no steel in the food
Regards
Uwe
If you are preferring thin grinds and a tothy edge, get some tougher steel ....
Shirogami or VG10 is not the way to go for this, AEB-L, Chipper steel or CPM3V will be much better for this kind of job, even 1.4116 with low hardness will be better
But to thin and to much abuse they will bend, not much better than chipping to repair, but no steel in the food
Regards
Uwe
I own knives in AEB-L and 52100. They are pretty ideal for my sharpening style. My shirogami is a nakiri I use at home and then a pair of sujihiki that rarely see any real abuse. I need to figure out a custom maker to commission one of these other steels. I'm not really interested in a Sukenari. Too laserish.
I have a Sukenari YXR-7 240 (230) and I would not call it laserish at all. It is a solid mid-weight, I donn't know about other versions such as HAP-40, but maybe someone who has tone can comment.
The Sukenari ZDP-189 is middleweight as well, but I don't love the food release. I don't think ZDP-189 scores well for toughness either
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Barmoley, I know you’ve used a few of those steels and several sukenaris. Do you have a fave steel + brand combo?
We can just PM if this is too off topic
For some reason Suki HAP40 is thinner ground than YXR-7 (thoug YXR-7 is tougher), but both are not on the laser side, but great performers....
Regards
Uwe
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I've been impressed with both steels, but my sample size is tiny. In principle I prefer YXR-7 because it is easier to sharpen, it is very tough and wear resistant enough and at 64HRC edge stability seems great. I've only tried it in Sukenari since I don't think anyone else uses it in kitchen knives. Even Sukenari doesn't seem to use it anymore, why it is not used more I don't know.
HAP-40 is very good too, it is usually harder 66-68HRC, but still somewhat tough at that hardness, about as tough as SLD @ 60 HRC, so plenty tough for "normal" kitchen use. Wear resistance is significantly higher than YXR-7 and it is usually harder so slicing edge retention should be noticeably better. It is more difficult to sharpen but not too bad, depends on what you compare it to. Both are OK to me, but YXR-7 is easier. I tried both in san mai blades so thinning would depend on cladding more than the core steel. Both are semi stainless and equally reactive in my use similar to A2/SKD12.
Anyway, all of this is anecdotal and from home use with a tiny sample size..... Since YXR-7 was only available from one company if the other attributes of the knife don't work for you the steel won't matter anyway.
