Cutting board suggestions

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Southpaw

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In market for a new cutting board, looking for suggestion from people who’ve been through a couple and found one that’s their absolute favorite.

I use end grain cutting boards but they’re nothing special, and I kinda feel like they bow after a little while. I’ve picked em up and random places for like 40 bucks, it’s time to upgrade and I’m worried they’re hurting my edge life. My White 1 Togashi even had a tiny microchip in the edge today after I cut a potato and I’m thinking it’s no way from a potato.

Anyways thanks for any advice and please post links or pics if u can.
 
Big fan of the Hasegawa rubber with wood core from MTC. I got one of the smaller ones to complement a big Sani-tuff I have. The Hasegawa is lightweight and I appreciate that. Good for the edge, if warp can be flattened in the oven, fairly expensive, but not compared to a nice end-grain board. I think Hi-Soft is supposed to be nicer than Sani-tuff, but I think you're splitting hairs, more or less.

https://mtckitchen.com/hasegawa-wood-core-soft-rubber-cutting-board-15-4-x-10-2-x-0-8-ht/

if you can afford it, I would go that way.
 
Orange Yolks said:
Big fan of the Hasegawa rubber with wood core from MTC. I got one of the smaller ones to complement a big Sani-tuff I have. The Hasegawa is lightweight and I appreciate that. Good for the edge, if warp can be flattened in the oven, fairly expensive, but not compared to a nice end-grain board. I think Hi-Soft is supposed to be nicer than Sani-tuff, but I think you're splitting hairs, more or less.

https://mtckitchen.com/hasegawa-wood-core-soft-rubber-cutting-board-15-4-x-10-2-x-0-8-ht/

if you can afford it, I would go that way.
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Hasegawa can flatten in oven? Haved you tried before? I'm very curious about how to do. 😍😍😍😍
 
I used Hi soft & asahi, asahi feel harder than hi soft, edge retention i think similar, hi soft feel softer, easily to bite the edge into cutting board for fresg sharpen edge.

My hasegawa will be arrive in next two weeks, update my review once i received.
 
I own, have owned, or have frequently used Hinoki, maple edge grain, maple end grain, cherry end grain, Epicurean, Hi-Soft, Hasagawa PE (brown), plus innumerable plastic boards. If you don't mind the weight, added board height, and maintenance I'd suggest you buy a cherry end grain. Wood is the most environmentally responsible choice and a good cherry end grain board will far outlast Hinoki. I've never seen a good, well maintained, end grain board bow to any significant extent and my friends and I have owned many. They were, however, more like $100 to $200 boards as opposed to $40. Boardsmith is well loved here although that is not what I own. If any of those qualities do bother you I would probably recommend the original, softer, yellow Hasagawa. You can't use it for serrated knives or serious cleaver work and it can stain. The brown PE Hasagawa is a more durable surface but I don't like the feel as much and it is probably slightly less kind to edges.
IME Hinoki stains and absorbs odors, you need to dampen the board slightly prior to use to reduce, but not eliminate, these issues. Then the boards needs to dry with good air circulation. Mine split eventually but it was not one of the better, thicker, Hinoki boards with the end stringers
 
Have a large Sani Tuff and 2 smaller Hi Softs for protein. The San Tuff is harder than the Hi Soft. Both are edge friendly and both stain easily. The Sani Tuff is half inch and warped to the extent that I can only use one side.

Have a larch wood end grain for non protein. Really like it but fairly expensive.

Would recommend the Hi Soft and larch wood subject to the caveats above.
 
LostHighway said:
...I've never seen a good, well maintained, end grain board bow to any significant extent and my friends and I have owned many. They were, however, more like $100 to $200 boards as opposed to $40...
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That's been my experience in general. Though it's possible to get a high quality $40 board if you're very patient and check Tuesday Morning every few weeks. My town has one next to the Trader Joe's and it's the perfect situation. Took me about 4 months to find a maple end-grain that looks remarkably similar to a Boardsmith in terms of thickness and wood grain density.
 
adam92 said:
Hasegawa can flatten in oven? Haved you tried before? I'm very curious about how to do. 😍😍😍😍
Click to expand...

havent needed to, but the instructions sheet that came with it said that’s what you do. I would imagine you could find it on MTC’s website. If I remember correctly, it’s 150f to 200f. I raised my eyebrow b/c of the wood core, but I guess it doesn’t matter.

as other have said, these rubber boards are real prone to staining. IME Sani-Tuff much more so than the hasegawa(which hasn’t been so bad). I haven’t been able to completely remove some red meat stains from my san-tuff even with hot water and bleach, looks like ****, but I just use the other side. It’s just a slab a rubber.

Seriously, look up the weight and make sure you’re comfortable with that. My old lady doesn’t like the Sani-Tuff for this reason. It’s 25x15x0.75in and weights damn near 10lbs.

you won’t regret the soft rubber and wood core board. It’s expensive, but you get what you pay for. Using a nice knife on a cheap board is not the correct maths.
 
Orange Yolks said:
havent needed to, but the instructions sheet that came with it said that’s what you do. I would imagine you could find it on MTC’s website. If I remember correctly, it’s 150f to 200f. I raised my eyebrow b/c of the wood core, but I guess it doesn’t matter.

as other have said, these rubber boards are real prone to staining. IME Sani-Tuff much more so than the hasegawa(which hasn’t been so bad). I haven’t been able to completely remove some red meat stains from my san-tuff even with hot water and bleach, looks like ****, but I just use the other side. It’s just a slab a rubber.

Seriously, look up the weight and make sure you’re comfortable with that. My old lady doesn’t like the Sani-Tuff for this reason. It’s 25x15x0.75in and weights damn near 10lbs.

you won’t regret the soft rubber and wood core board. It’s expensive, but you get what you pay for. Using a nice knife on a cheap board is not the correct maths.
Click to expand...
Try soaking your sani tuff cutting board with baking soda, lemon juice & bleach for at least 30 minutes, overnight even better.

I try before only bleach, not really useful sometimes, but the method i said on top work out fine.
 
As above. End grain walnut boardsmiths.
plastic for raw protein, will consider upgrading to sanituff as amazon has a great price.
not to derail thread but what’s the best chopping board for serious bone cleaver work? Maple end grain?
 
I like walnut. End grain or side grain your choice, I don't think it makes much difference, but walnut is soft, holds oil/wax well, and can even smell nice. It's a little expensive though.
 
Pick up a better quality end grain and you'll probably feel differently about it .

With that said, I'm really liking my Hasewaga brown I picked up a couple months ago. Good on the knives, wipes down easy, and is large but relatively light. I can easily get it into the sink and scrub it down.
 
So I went with the konosuke from Bernal, mainly cuz I wanted to get the knife book for my office (aka my room with my guitars and Nintendo entertainment system) and they have a decent price aoto on there.

Thanks everyone for helping. Seriously love u all as much as my wife hates you.
 
My hasegawa cutting board arrived yesterday, fall in love straightaway.
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IMG_20201117_132027.jpg
 
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