This is 800 grit, still a looooooong road ahead. Not surprisingly, 67hrc steel doesn't abrade readily
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- Thread starter cotedupy
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I’m not the most educated and probably use some wrong terms but am curious.
When you flatten a concave bevel does the edge get too thin? I know heat treatment and steel type will affect it’s ability to hold edge and wear resistance. I flattened a cheapish concave j-knife and the edge is super brittle. To the point where I think I need to reset the bevel/pull up the edge to be a little thicker (if that makes sense?).
Curious to your next steps
This can happen. I think your experience mirrors what’s going on behind the edge in some (most?) cases. If you end up with no microbevel, then your angle at the edge will be quite low.
That is definitely a problem you can run into if you take concave bevels and make them really flat - easy to turn the bottom edge into foil. Then you'd need to thicken up the edge through sharpening. Edge thickness is comparable now to what it was with concave bevels now. Still nail flexing, but able to hold a good apex.
Next steps will be some final clean up on synthetics before moving to naturals. Probably finishing this on on something very fine and rather hard, maybe a Nakayama Kiita.
I've been messing with a knife the past couple days and I realized that was exactly what would happen if I took off enough material to finally achieve flat bevels.
Another note is when doing this you should plan to loose some height. I lost about 1mm and was pretty darn pleased with that, without careful work it could easily be double.
nakiriknaifuwaifu
Senior Member
that bogdan makes me **** my pants every time i see it
It‘s from suntravel and called Schleifding 2.0.
What paper do you use for test cutting?
I've been using RIZLA recently, they have a 14.5 gsm and I've been trying, unsuccessfully, to cut a paper vertically.
Horizontal is fairly easy to get but I can only get 3/4 of the way through a vertical paper before it tears.
I've been using RIZLA recently, they have a 14.5 gsm and I've been trying, unsuccessfully, to cut a paper vertically.
Horizontal is fairly easy to get but I can only get 3/4 of the way through a vertical paper before it tears.
How would you completely pull up the edge? Do you go completely perpendicular to a stone’s surface? Like turn the stone on its side and pull cut it? Go outside and pull cut some concrete?
Or do you just go at a very high angle on both sides and slowly pull off metal? Like a heavy burr removal?
I’m curious on how to do this with a chippy edge AND a nicer (but thin enough) edge I may just want to reset. Would one approach work better with each scenario?
At this time the edge is so thin that it won’t take much - no sidewalks or breadknifing required.
I say pick what you want your finished bevel to be at and go. As long as it’s more obtuse than it was (it almost has to be) it’ll go quick.
The tip on my small one was just too thin, I had to shorten it a couple of mm. It still has a small section at the heel that's concave. His edges are not chippy at all being as thin as they are.
Slight refresh of the edge of a rectangle. JSN800 followed by a SP 2K.
Thanks! I'm lucky to do this everyday (for a while longer, before my wife makes me close the knife shop and get a real job! It's hard trying to sell knives as a one man band at the bottom of the world)
This is a customers knife, Yosimitu Kajiya, 160mm Nakiri, Shirogami 2.
It only took a few minutes on the stones, I spent more time de-burring than grinding steel.
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First time using a harder jnat, usually been getting stones at the 2-3 level which are pretty muddy. This is a nice nakayama suita from tennen toishi. Really nice for bringing out the detail on the wrought on this milan, and for making the core nice and shiny. Still need a bit more practice on using a harder stone, but this nakayama feels real nice
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And some 1800's bridge wrought iron on my halcyon. Really makes the wrought pop
Just terrible picture. But pretty dece mirror on this chisel.
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Quick polish with a Maruo shiki uchi on my fm petty. Great little knife to play with on the stones when you wanna do something a bit more than a kiri
Nice!
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So, after hearing a bunch about shiro suitas from maruoyama, particularly how Milan likes them for kasumi, I decided to give one a go. What I really wanted to see was how it would vary from my other stone from maruo, my shiki uchi, as I can not find a ton of info on that stone online. Decided to have a little bit of fun with my yanick, both sides were prepped with chosera 800, then 3k, then the finishers.
Here are my findings...the shiro suita is much softer than the shiki uchi. It gives a much mistier kasumi, while the shiki uchi goes much darker, and interesting enough gives more detail on the wrought of my Yanick. I know shiki uchi is known for giving kind of a dark and heavy kasumi, but interesting to see how much detail still remains with it. The uchi is def a bit harder, while still being a soft stone. It's hard for me to define "fineness", but I would say the shiki is a bit finer, being able to draw out a little more detail. I still really enjoy the lighter misty kasumi of the shiro suita though. Finally I have a shot of my hakka suita, which is harder than both, and also a tad finer. It seems to be in the middle of the 3 stones, it has the detail of the shiki uchi, while being a little lighter like the shiro suita.
Please note this isn't going to be the same for every stone of these varieties of course, this is just a comparison between these examples.
This is a quick shot of the polish from the shiro suita:
And here is a quick pic of reference from my shiki uchi:
Again the shiro suita:
For fun, a shot of my hakka suita:
Here are my findings...the shiro suita is much softer than the shiki uchi. It gives a much mistier kasumi, while the shiki uchi goes much darker, and interesting enough gives more detail on the wrought of my Yanick. I know shiki uchi is known for giving kind of a dark and heavy kasumi, but interesting to see how much detail still remains with it. The uchi is def a bit harder, while still being a soft stone. It's hard for me to define "fineness", but I would say the shiki is a bit finer, being able to draw out a little more detail. I still really enjoy the lighter misty kasumi of the shiro suita though. Finally I have a shot of my hakka suita, which is harder than both, and also a tad finer. It seems to be in the middle of the 3 stones, it has the detail of the shiki uchi, while being a little lighter like the shiro suita.
Please note this isn't going to be the same for every stone of these varieties of course, this is just a comparison between these examples.
This is a quick shot of the polish from the shiro suita:
And here is a quick pic of reference from my shiki uchi:
Again the shiro suita:
For fun, a shot of my hakka suita:
Very nice!
SG500 working those bevels
. Definitely a “whoa” moment. It’s reactive, but I didn’t expect this sort of clear detail. Almost seems like an attribute outside of the etchy-banding acidic stones. 
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I believe this is the contrast I’m looking for. “Very soft” Hideriyama.
Edit: patchyness caused by stupid/science experiments
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How hight is the pallares?
Did you changed the handle, or that handle is from factory? I have never seen this handle, and I liked it.
I ended up need a little bit of refinement on this from the previous stone:
I don't have the knife on me currently but from memory but from memory the the blade is about 165 x 45mm.
Gracias! I made the handle from wood I cut from a (wine) grape vine.
