Knivperson
Senior Member
Just cutting up some uchigumori powder which was lumpy. 
Daily Sharpening Pics
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Knivperson
Senior Member
Result
Before
After
Before
After
Just cutting up some uchigumori powder which was lumpy.
…. Sooooooo did you use the first line and snort the second? Earthy?
Knivperson
Senior Member
Best friends for life - perfect match with size, steel and butchery edge. Until a better medium grit comes along. Unlikely. CCK2203 and another refcast special - soft kaminae aoto. Muddy as heck, can’t tell when/what it’s cutting, but woooo this stone is fun. Big bonus points for the wet earth smell explosion.
A coworker had me fix his Tojiro.
Progression of SP 120 -> SG 500 -> SG 4k -> sandpaper.
Before:
After:
Progression of SP 120 -> SG 500 -> SG 4k -> sandpaper.
Before:
After:
Wow! The scratches look way worse in the pictures than in person
Booo! Liar!!Wow! The scratches look way worse in the pictures than in person
The camera flash is a harsh mistress
And kitchen lighting in the wee hours of the morning.
Not so much knife sharpening, more like sharp thing repair.
This is one of those things that would be better off throwing the damn thing out and buying a new one. Borrowed from my mother in law’s boyfriend (???) for the purpose of making my own jnat bases. Nope. Nope this won’t make anything. One corner flipped up, no edge to speak of and no ura. Squishy monosteel construction.
Roughly an hour in, probably 25% done judging by how much steel still needs to come off.
Freehand chisel repair suuuuuucks. SG220 manages, even when glazed. The hardest part is maintaining a bevel angle and deburring the backside… I can’t really figure that part out as it sort of bent upwards in a few places. The final product will be atrocious but useable I hope.
This is one of those things that would be better off throwing the damn thing out and buying a new one. Borrowed from my mother in law’s boyfriend (???) for the purpose of making my own jnat bases. Nope. Nope this won’t make anything. One corner flipped up, no edge to speak of and no ura. Squishy monosteel construction.
Roughly an hour in, probably 25% done judging by how much steel still needs to come off.
Freehand chisel repair suuuuuucks. SG220 manages, even when glazed. The hardest part is maintaining a bevel angle and deburring the backside… I can’t really figure that part out as it sort of bent upwards in a few places. The final product will be atrocious but useable I hope.
Repairs in progress.. early morning geometry check.
I’m digging trying different techniques to achieve consistent convexity above the edge, a basic concept that took me about a year to understand. Nowhere near being able to execute well, but at least the theory matches the results. Mean “contrast”
.
Yeah, I know it’s a stamped shun.. barely deserves the work, but it’s sort of fun to play with.
I’m digging trying different techniques to achieve consistent convexity above the edge, a basic concept that took me about a year to understand. Nowhere near being able to execute well, but at least the theory matches the results. Mean “contrast”
. Yeah, I know it’s a stamped shun.. barely deserves the work, but it’s sort of fun to play with.
Even Shuns need love too.
How would you describe the process to achieve consistent convexity, in a nutshell? I’ve basically only got the hamaguri process in my toolbox. I’ve tried thinking about ‘consistent convexity’ for a while, and the only ideas I have are
- concave jig with belts/paper
- practice a lot
How would you describe the process to achieve consistent convexity, in a nutshell? I’ve basically only got the hamaguri process in my toolbox. I’ve tried thinking about ‘consistent convexity’ for a while, and the only ideas I have are
- concave jig with belts/paper
- practice a lot
KingShapton
Senior Member
exactly
I’ve tried a few things, but haven’t really landed on a magic process yet.
1. Cutting 3 facets and then blending, both from top down and edge up.. this isn’t great for me as angle control isn’t super consistent
2. Not even cutting facets, basically heavy blending - this works great on soft steels when combined with soft coarse stones (cerax 320 is killer for this). I find more control doing this, maybe paradoxically. I really have to ensure the blade is perpendicular to the stone to make sure it works properly. The other variable is whether you want to take it to zero edge or not, and doing it this way allows for ultra easy polishing.
3. One big facet + some blending. I almost feel like I get this smoother than multiple facets, but this method really relies on that first relief bevel being perfect. Beyond my capabilities atm.
I like #2 the most I think… it gives me the most consistent results. Keep in mind I’m quite the novice with convexing, actually most things sharpening. My methodology as well as actual hands on work both need huge amounts of practice.
This one actually turned out quite nice, method 1 with the facet cutting. A little bit of an angle between the edge and middle facets.
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Touching up the Forgecraft and HSC Z-wear on the line 
F’ing atrocious. I usually don’t rush jobs but I’m not putting the effort into geometry for something like this. They started out as butter knives, so literally anything is an improvement. The black plastic handle one actually takes a monster 220 grit edge tho.
Get your special tube sock out guys, check out this sweet choil
Red spot aoto - A bit scratchy but great prepolisher. Big heavy contrast with some nice sparkle to the core
Aaaaand ozuku suita. What an experience. Unnaturally fast, extremely hard, and about 7/10 fineness. None of it matches up but it cuts iron with no hesitation or mud. Definitely a unique one, I suppose I should have expected something weird from a stone I’ve never known existed.
Aaaaand ozuku suita. What an experience. Unnaturally fast, extremely hard, and about 7/10 fineness. None of it matches up but it cuts iron with no hesitation or mud. Definitely a unique one, I suppose I should have expected something weird from a stone I’ve never known existed.
Shinichi Watanbe's Pro 180 gyuto. I also have one of his 180 Pro nakiri's. Both are close to zero grind but this gyuto much more so. It came with a very thin edge bevel that many here would consider a micro-bevel. Sharp as it was, I found the edge a bit fragile. Actually had a couple roll spots, affirming the thinness of the edge bevel.
I did some light work on an 8k but it still wasn't what I wanted so today I took it to the SG4k. When I was done the edge bevel looked consistent with just a hint of the most persistent "weak" spot showing. I suspect it will be gone in short order.
In no way am I disparaging Shinichi or perpetuating myself as a superior sharpener. I love the knife and am just reporting my experience.
Speaking of my sharpening deficiency, when I was done I held up a paper towel and sliced through it cross grain. My wife was walking by, stopped and said, "You can do better." True story!
I was a bit shocked and thought maybe she was just giving me a hard time. But she said, "It's cutting but I can see it hanging up. I've seen you do better."
She was right, there is still a little hang up. I reckon after all these years she's been paying attention.
I did some light work on an 8k but it still wasn't what I wanted so today I took it to the SG4k. When I was done the edge bevel looked consistent with just a hint of the most persistent "weak" spot showing. I suspect it will be gone in short order.
In no way am I disparaging Shinichi or perpetuating myself as a superior sharpener. I love the knife and am just reporting my experience.
Speaking of my sharpening deficiency, when I was done I held up a paper towel and sliced through it cross grain. My wife was walking by, stopped and said, "You can do better." True story!
I was a bit shocked and thought maybe she was just giving me a hard time. But she said, "It's cutting but I can see it hanging up. I've seen you do better."
She was right, there is still a little hang up. I reckon after all these years she's been paying attention.
Sounds like you have a keeper!Shinichi Watanbe's Pro 180 gyuto. I also have one of his 180 Pro nakiri's. Both are close to zero grind but this gyuto much more so. It came with a very thin edge bevel that many here would consider a micro-bevel. Sharp as it was, I found the edge a bit fragile. Actually had a couple roll spots, affirming the thinness of the edge bevel.
I did some light work on an 8k but it still wasn't what I wanted so today I took it to the SG4k. When I was done the edge bevel looked consistent with just a hint of the most persistent "weak" spot showing. I suspect it will be gone in short order.
In no way am I disparaging Shinichi or perpetuating myself as a superior sharpener. I love the knife and am just reporting my experience.
Speaking of my sharpening deficiency, when I was done I held up a paper towel and sliced through it cross grain. My wife was walking by, stopped and said, "You can do better." True story!
I was a bit shocked and thought maybe she was just giving me a hard time. But she said, "It's cutting but I can see it hanging up. I've seen you do better."
She was right, there is still a little hang up. I reckon after all these years she's been paying attention.
Well, after 30+ years, I reckon we're settling in.
For me, the problem is she seems to not remember all those times I didn't (don't) even slice the paper towel! Unrealistic standards I say.
After cutting God only knows how many feet of cardboard ranging from thin to quite thick, a fair number of branches, twine, banding straps, and myriad other medium, my favorite pocket knife needed a touch up.
But didn't need anything more than a 1200 diamond plate and some light stropping to bring it back into fighting shape.
Spyderco Endela in K390 with LynchNW clip.
K390 just rocks!
But didn't need anything more than a 1200 diamond plate and some light stropping to bring it back into fighting shape.
Spyderco Endela in K390 with LynchNW clip.
K390 just rocks!
bahamaroot
Idiot Savant
Ooopps...
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