Nah you misunderstand, there is variation between different manufacturers and stones with the same bonding technology. You can have a Vitrified bond on the softer side and one that's on the harder side and everything in between.You are right but for same technology if you add thickness you extend lifespan (as doublethick Shapton500 or King last twice as the standart one).
Thank you for sharing.Thread needs some stone pics
Left base Naniwa Diamond Resin 3k, right base Poltava Metallic bonded 1k
CBN resin 400 and 1500
Vitrified CBN 1k
Super Vitrified Diamond 400 grit
Metallic bonded 1k
Shawn's (Deadboxhero) YouTube channel is chock full of awesome information. I know he has videos discussing various diamond water stones: Big Brown BearThank you for sharing.
You have a large variety of diamond / CBN stones. Some overlapping. Can you tell us more? Wear, dishing and abrasive layer thickness? Prices? Speed on hard steel? The knife edge you get with? Feedback? Other comments? What do you use them for?[/URL]
Let's clear a few things out. First of all everything wears out. Unfortunately, Shirley Bassey was wrong, diamonds are not forever. Why does the coarse stones wears out the fastest? It applies to any bond type and any type of abrasive we tipically use in sharpening. Vit is not any different. It is just another type of bond. Sharpening in general is a very agressive and brutal act of steel removal. So yes, some of the abrasive particles will be ripped out of the matrix. Diamonds will fracture. You would be surprised how easy it fractures. When people think of diamond they think well...diamond is diamond. There is a huge range of diamond grades categorised by purity, shape, fracture rate, coating etc. Some are more suited for resin others are more suited for other type of bonds but they can be interchanged to get some specific results needed for specific task. As Shawn mentioned before vit bond can be anywhere from crayon soft to a really hard. Question is, where do you want it to be and why? That was probably the most difficult question for me. Hard matrix will stay flat longer. Softer matrix will have a nicer tactile feedback. It's not going to be gesshin type of nice of course, but it will be pretty nice. Something you are not going to get from any other type of bond. Softer bond is easier to lapp and maintain. For me personaly softer bond is the winner. But thats me. I have my own taste for things. I'm trading some of the wear resistance for some extra feedback. Some people just want a stone that has minimal maintenance required. If you are a pro you don't want to spend unnecessary time on lapping. Time is money. In this case you can trade some of the feedback to maximum wear resistance. Which technically is the way it should be.Do you know how the vitrified diamond stones dish? Is it the same explanation for under 400, 400 to 3000 and above 3000 grit stones? Is the pressure on the knife relevant (for the same amount of steel removed)? Is it drop out of diamonds? Does diamonds brakes? Does diamond wear out (I do not thinks so but I am not a specialist)? BTW incising the thickness of the diamond layer (from 3mm to 5mm) is the way to go. Would further increase of the thickness be very expensive? Thank you for making all this experiments for us.
i used to use the 500 grit version, but have since moved on. I prefer these to naniwa though. Solid options. The coarse one had been a recommendation of a sharpener in sakai almost a decade ago.