Distal taper help

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West164

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I'm making a gyuto wide bevel, 210mm in length and a santoku wide bevel 150mm from .09375" stock. I'm going to to a straight distal taper from neck to tip before grinding , leaving the full .09375 at the thickest point. I'm putting in the distal taper before grinding the bevels. What should the thickness be at the tip for both knives before the bevels are put it?
 
I would say that’s up to you. I don’t think there is a right or wrong answer. Have you heat treated the knife yet?
 
I would say that’s up to you. I don’t think there is a right or wrong answer. Have you heat treated the knife yet?
I haven't yet. I realize it's personal preference, but this is my first knife and I'm just looking for a ballpark answer. I'm afraid of grinding it too thin, then find out it is way too thin after putting the bevel on.
 
I haven't yet. I realize it's personal preference, but this is my first knife and I'm just looking for a ballpark answer. I'm afraid of grinding it too thin, then find out it is way too thin after putting the bevel on.
My first “knife” i got 5 blanks so I could try this and see what I like. I have done it both ways and the results can the same.
 
Well, in the end the very tip is going to go to zero no? The wide bevel will determine the spine thickness of the tip until the shinogi merges with the spine proper. I think of the taper being proportional to the blade width, measuring perpendicular to the tangent of the edge.
 
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Are you doing a full flat grind? I think you should grind in your bevels at full thickness. There will be a natural distal taper as you get closer to the tip as you grind over the spine of the knife for a full flat grind.
 
Are you doing a full flat grind? I think you should grind in your bevels at full thickness. There will be a natural distal taper as you get closer to the tip as you grind over the spine of the knife for a full flat grind.
I thought about this and would make things easier, but wouldn't .09375" thick down the majority of the blade be a bit thick?
 
It depends how high the knife is and who you ask. I think it is acceptable. But some people will say it needs to be .0X or .0Y. I usually use .08 or .09, but just cut out a bunch of kitchen knives in .1. But most of them are a bit higher so the thickness at the spines is less of an issue. The thinner the better for kitchen slicing, but if you already have .09 that’s what I would use.
These are all .1”
05C8131E-09E2-4B69-9A3B-1BF9A622C9C8.jpeg

These are all .08 or .09.
1D3A208D-7B55-428C-8C05-BA0E53911849.jpeg
 
Grind one out of mild steel if you want to get a feel for how it's going to turn out. It will not be a knife in the end so you can work fast and not be afraid of scrapping anything. It's already scrap. I often do this. You are essentially making a model of what you want in the end and it helps in refining the techniques of how you are going to get there. There is no heat treat, so you can knock it out in one session.
 


Don breaks down how to grind a tapered tang, which you can reverse for a distal taper.
 
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