Drill Bit Recommendations for Tang Holes

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tostadas

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After doing a bunch of custom handles now with only clamps and a power drill, my elbows finally convinced me to get a drill press. Now that it's on the way, what specific drill bits do you guys recommend for tang holes? I'll be making both mono and multi-piece handles. thanks!
 
I needed a long one so I went with a Dewalt 15cm long 1/8" DW1603. The smaller diameter was for tiny tangs on tablewear. Biggest trick is to get the chuck perfectly aligned on the drillpress so the bit don't wobble.
 
You might want to consider brad-point bits. I have these, made in Austria, and inexpensive:
https://www.amazon.com/Fisch-FSF-13...74&s=hi&sprefix=fisch+bit+se,tools,101&sr=1-6The benefit is you can center the brad-point exactly on your mark and also not have to worry about walking. Makes a clean hole as well. The downside is they don't come in 6" (or, if when do, it's expensive). So, you'd have to drill the hole with a brad point and then use a 6" in a slightly smaller size to deepen the hole.

For 6", I've been happy with Drill America (despite the name, sadly, not made in USA).
https://www.amazon.com/Drill-Americ...s=hi&sprefix=drill+america6+,tools,318&sr=1-2No need to bother with cobalt, etc. HSS will be fine. Though most stuff at the big box nowadays has some miracle gold coating... I like Milwaukee, DeWalt, Bosch--all good from the big box.

If you do want cobalt, Norseman is a good value and Made in USA. Reasonably priced at HJE.
 
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You might want to consider brad-point bits. I have these, made in Austria, and inexpensive:
https://www.amazon.com/Fisch-FSF-13...74&s=hi&sprefix=fisch+bit+se,tools,101&sr=1-6The benefit is you can center the brad-point exactly on your mark and also not have to worry about walking. Makes a clean hole as well. The downside is they don't come in 6" (or, if when do, it's expensive). So, you'd have to drill the hole with a brad point and then use a 6" in a slightly smaller size to deepen the hole.

For 6", I've been happy with Drill America (despite the name, sadly, not made in USA).
https://www.amazon.com/Drill-Americ...s=hi&sprefix=drill+america6+,tools,318&sr=1-2No need to bother with cobalt, etc. HSS will be fine. Though most stuff at the big box nowadays has some miracle gold coating... I like Milwaukee, DeWalt, Bosch--all good from the big box.

If you do want cobalt, Norseman is a good value and Made in USA. Reasonably priced at HJE.
I never thought to switch out, great idea. I have a 12 inch Brad point I use on my hand drill but it's way to long to fit on the small drill press I bought. And I spent hours looking for a 6inch version but wasn't able to find one.
 
I never thought to switch out, great idea. I have a 12 inch Brad point I use on my hand drill but it's way to long to fit on the small drill press I bought. And I spent hours looking for a 6inch version but wasn't able to find one.
Just cut the 12" down to the length you like. Problem solved :)
 
Can it work like that? If I stick the fluted part into the chuck, would it break?
Not all bits have fluted shanks. Many have round shanks. The ones listed above are all round shank.
So, if you cut down a 12" bit to a length you want, you'll have a round shank. (Just be sure to hit it with a file to remove the burrs and chamfer the edge left from the saw/grinder.)

A round-shank bit shouldn't spin in the chuck, this is usually a sign that the chuck is worn and/or you're pulling it out of the material too fast. If you want, you can hit it with a file on three sides to knock off the round.

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Find a machinery milling bit blade supplier in your area? We have one in town and they have every size/length/shaft/etc. you can imagine. Old school process is to get a carpentry awl and mark your center after you trace it out. Really helps seat the bit where you want it.
 
Buy 1 m42 or m35 cobalt bit. They probably won't have quite the chip clearance of a purpose built wood bit, but they'll probably never go dull cutting wood, and overheating shouldn't bug them if it occurs.
 
Cobalt bits and a drill doctor for sharpening the bits.

You can stand up the handle in a woodworking vice and use a tiny milling bit to back and forth. It's not what the drill press is made for, but it works. I have to assume that's less force than pushing 1/2 inch but through steel.

Before I got my mill I would drill a bunch of small holes, then connect them. Then match the tang hole size with files.
 
I never thought to switch out, great idea. I have a 12 inch Brad point I use on my hand drill but it's way to long to fit on the small drill press I bought. And I spent hours looking for a 6inch version but wasn't able to find one.

I got this set to start and bought a separate stubby 1/2" bit:
https://www.amazon.com/NordWolf-7-P...prefix=stubby+brad+point+drill,aps,164&sr=8-4

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017KUF4LC/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_9?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1
 
I suggest getting a digital micrometer. They are not that expensive, and will help immensely. Then check your pins' diameter and buy a bit to get the hole the right size. Also check the bit. It is not unusual for bits to be a few thousandths under sized to compensate for wobble. You can use a drill bit chart to find the closest size bit.

Here's an experience I just had. I ordered 1/8 inch bar stock and was sent 3 mm stock. 1/8" = .125". 3mm = .118", and the stock was actually .116, so I had to order a # 32 bit which is also .116". That worked for me.
 

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