Epoxy stabilizing/leveling bases

Kitchen Knife Forums

Help Support Kitchen Knife Forums:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Sep 19, 2016
Messages
1,116
Reaction score
1,382
Location
Minnesota
In cases where a stone is substantially ( i.e. 1.5 cm+) not level and potentially unstable how do you handle the expoxy pour? Layers with some time to harden between pours? Fiberglass mesh drywall tape between layers? One big continuous pour with or without tape?
 
No idea about details, never done it. But one member did some neat examples, so search should help. I think it was @PalmRoyale
 
Bed the stone in auto body filler either bonded to a piece of tile or something, or put duct tape on the flat surface to act as a release and have a bondo base. If you're embarrassed to tell people that you used auto body filler just tell them that it is polyester fixturing compound.
 
Bed the stone in auto body filler either bonded to a piece of tile or something, or put duct tape on the flat surface to act as a release and have a bondo base. If you're embarrassed to tell people that you used auto body filler just tell them that it is polyester fixturing compound.

That seems like a slippery slope. After the bondo job I might start to think that some candy apple lacquer would look great as a sealant on the sides, then maybe a touch of pinstriping, ... From there it is only a small step to miniature hydraulics below the base.
 
Bed the stone in auto body filler either bonded to a piece of tile or something, or put duct tape on the flat surface to act as a release and have a bondo base. If you're embarrassed to tell people that you used auto body filler just tell them that it is polyester fixturing compound.
Quick harden drywall compound works too. Easy to sand to level.

These are clever. I'm trying this kind've thing next time.

OP - If you are using epoxy then you could use almost anything as a wall - if you smear some oil or wax round the inside epoxy won't bond to it.
 
use plastic wrap on top of the hydrated drywall compound. Place stone drywall-plastic wrap side down. Adjust the drywall mud to horizontal. Make it slightly wider at the base if you want that extra support. Let dry. Remove plastic wrap when done. Plastic wrap prevents stains on floor.
 
That seems like a slippery slope. After the bondo job I might start to think that some candy apple lacquer would look great as a sealant on the sides, then maybe a touch of pinstriping, ... From there it is only a small step to miniature hydraulics below the base.
Don't forget the dingle berries and chain steering wheel. Shag carpeting also.
 
No idea about details, never done it. But one member did some neat examples, so search should help. I think it was @PalmRoyale

I've levelled several stones with epoxy. It's very easy, you take some painters tape and form a rim around the stone. Put it on a level surface and pour the epoxy on the bottom. Once the epoxy has fully hardened you can easily remove the tape again.
 
I've levelled several stones with epoxy. It's very easy, you take some painters tape and form a rim around the stone. Put it on a level surface and pour the epoxy on the bottom. Once the epoxy has fully hardened you can easily remove the tape again.

Thanks, so no issues with curing/hardener if there is a relatively high volume?
 
You can safely pour up to 20mm with most epoxy resins, it just takes longer to fully harden. If it hasn't fully cured after a full day place it in a warm spot and leave it there another day.
 
Last edited:
You can safely pour up to 20mm with most epoxy resins, it just takes longer to fully harden. If it hasn't fully cured after a full day place it in a warm spot and leave it there another day.
The high strength epoxy layer that I used was around 10 mm deep (maybe 15 mm at its deepest). It took over a week to harden in the height of a severe Aussie summer (40C plus daily with overnight minimums in high 20s).
 
On the right stone, the epoxy became hot and and the stone had a severe crack in the middle when fully hardened.
Curing is exotherm. Depending on volume, temperature and product it can burn. With little knowledge I like to be on the safe side. With casting resin there is a safe height.
 
Back
Top