Background: This is something I’ve been wanting to add as a resource to the forum for a while now.
@stringer recently made a post, that included a stropping video, which inspired me to finally record it this morning.
To preface this post: There is always ‘more than one way to skin a cat.’ But in my professional life I am always looking for the most efficient and straightforward methodology for technical applications and procedures.
This post represents my findings in the realm of FUNCTIONAL edge refinement for kitchen knives-- up until this point. All info here is designed to be simple to follow, easy to apply, and highly rewarding for any end users.
It is not a definitive guide, but instead a practical account of methods which have served me well. I will always look to improve.
I'm posting this in hopes that it provides someone a shortcut to get better results faster and with less trial and error.
I stress functional edges, because polishing edges to mirror “finishes” has an adverse effect on kitchen performance—so all of my testing and feedback here is related to making blades bada$$ kitchen performers only!
I have experimented with stropping steel on leather after stone sharpening and compared that with “stropping strokes” on stones only. I have had success with both methods, and have concluded which I prefer.
Here are my findings. Why I prefer one over the other. And, most importantly, instructions on HOW TO DO BOTH METHODS OF STROPPING: 1) On Stones ONLY & 2) On leather
The following examples work off a progression, of 400 > 1000 > 3000 > Hard Finishing JNat (which still keeps toothy/ functional edges for kitchen duties – for the sake of a grit equivalent let’s call it 6-8k).
The following methods will work for sharpening a friend’s random victronix, a hardened AS, Spicy White, or some of the new super Steels such as Apex Ultra and the like.
CONTEXT
For both Methods Below:
ALL Sharpening Strokes are Edge TRAILING (Move the blade in a motion that simulates the blade, and the edge, are moving away from the stone. )
ALL 'Stropping' Strokes (on stone) are Edge LEADING (Opposite of edge Trailing---Move the blade in a motion that simulates the edge cutting INTO the stone.)
STROPPING METHOD #1: "STROPPING Strokes” ON STONES ONLY: With a kick a$$ Hard Finishing JNat (my preferred method)
For this Method – THERE IS NO USE of a leather or denim strop. With this method the stones remove all the burr and exactingly refine the apex to a sexy super sharp edge.
For the first strokes of EACH New Stone in the progression – Start with edge leading strokes.
This applies when moving to 1000, after 400, and then moving to 3000 after 1000. And, if applicable, when moving to a Finishing JNat after 3k—if you have that option.
The first strokes on the new higher grit stone are STROPPING (edge leading) motions.
ONLY Running edge leading strokes, when starting with a new stone, helps to loosen and remove the burr from the previous coarser stone’s work more easily.
Moving in the opposite motion of the previous grit’s sharpening causes more friction and also helps to jar loose the connection of the burr (the thin excess metal) from the intended apex (the point at which both sides of the edge come together like this ^ ) you’re working to achieve.
For instance, when moving from 400 to 1000 grit, use only the pressure from the weight of your fingers guiding the blade, and start with edge leading strokes, say 8 to 10 strokes on each side of the blade into the 1000 grit stone.
After completing 8-10 edge leading stropping strokes on the 1000 grit, it’s time to actually sharpen that edge with 1000-- so flip the blade over in your hand.
Now ALL Sharpening on 1000 grit is performed with edge trailing strokes. Sharpen the stone until you form a sufficient and equal burr on the entire edge of one side of the blade. Then flip the knife over and sharpen equally to move the steel to counteract the burr and bring back an equal apex.
NOTE: Personally, I recommend keeping track of how much sharpening was done on the first side of the blade, so I can match that on the other side of the blade. I’ve found this helps to create a uniform burr more easily on the first side of the blade. This is important, because the primary burr sets the stage for apex creation at each grit’s sharpening stage.
Some people keep track with counting individual strokes, while others have procedures that are always fixed at X number of strokes in different sections. No matter how you keep track, performing the same amount of work on the other side of the blade will be more precise and efficient with time,
IMO if you sharpen with the same number of strokes, angle, and pressure – on both side of the blade – you will make an equal burr on both sides of the blade. If this is accomplished properly, when checking it will feel as if there is no detectable burr on the apex. That is at least that's what I have found to be the most efficient and precise process for me.
After the burr pretty much feels non-existent (to your checking method) on both sides of the blade, now fully rinse off the stone with water to remove all collected slurry and swarf.
We don't want slurry or swarf because they are both contain particulates of either the abrasive particles from the stone (slurry) and/or the removed metal pieces from the blade (swarf). We want a clean stone, with enough water to fully wet the entire surface of the stone, to move the blade over this stone for the last strokes in an adjusted method that is further refining the Apex.
In this method, the last strokes to performed on any final Grit are SINGLE ALTERNATING EDGE TRAILING STROKES-- ON EACH SIDE OF THE BLADE AT A TIME.
While only performing single strokes at a time, adjust the downward pressure on the blade to only use the weight of your fingers to engage the blade to the stone.
Both adjustments of A) single strokes on a side, with B) only utilizing the pressure of the fingers, allow for exacting precision to close out this grit. By keeping the amount of sharpening on each side equal with each stroke, we know the exact amount of metal being removed with each stroke.
After feeling no, or close to no burr on either side of the blade, after performing alternating single edge trailing strokes, now move to the next stone in the progression.
IN this example, it is now time to move to the 3000 grit.
Repeat the process from the 1000 grit stone. Start with to edge leading strokes for the first 6-10 strokes.
Then go into sharpening mode with edge trailing strokes only.
After you've fully sharpened on both sides, flush the stone under water, cleaning it completely with some manual agitation to remove and embedded swarf.
Final "Stropping motions" with the Last Stone in your Progression (in this case a Hard JNat finisher)
With a clean and wet stone, using only the weight of the blade:
Lightly perform 4-6 edge leading strokes, per side, for any deburring. Then flip the blade over and only perform Edge Trailing strokes, alternating one stroke per side-- in sets of 10. After a set of 10 then check your edge.
IF not quite where you want it, perform another set of 10 strokes, in the same fashion and check.
Repeat this until you achieve suitable edge sharpness.
In final stone stropping we don’t want a stone slurry and want plenty of water so any edge refinement (metal removal) that occurs is instantly flushed away by the water—thus creating the most even refinement.
STROPPING METHOD #2: STROPPING ON A Leather Strop. (Compounds are optional, but not necessary.)
For this Method – A leather or denim strop is used, to remove any remaining pieces of the burr to create consistency for the apex’s cutting surface.
Everything from Method #1 is the same, EXCEPT the finial finishing.
Progress through the stones the same. Except there is no JNAT, so the sharpening would end at 3k. Then proceed to a leather strop.
Final "Stropping steps" are performed on a Dual Sided Leather Strop,
USE ONLY EDGE TRAILING STROKES ON A LEATHER STROP.
Start with the rough textured leather side of the strop to remove any larger or more stubborn pieces of metal which make up the burr. Using medium pressure, perform 6-8 edge trailing strokes—alternating one stroke per side, for any coarse deburring.
OPTIONAL: before deburring, you may add an even layer of coarse stropping compound (usually green) directly to the rough side of the strop. This will further aid in any removal of larger burr particles, while adding a bit of final refinement to the edge. I prefer to leave the smooth side of the stop bare, as I tend to believe polishing compound encourages the mind to "sharpen" more.
After the blade is deburred on the coarse side of the strop, it’s time for the final step— smooth leather stropping.
Flip the strop over to the smooth leather side.
Strop the edge of blade with the smooth leather. Gently stropping the entire cutting edge using edge trailing strokes, applying only enough pressure to make gentle contact with the leather.
Perform 3-4 strokes, alternating between sides of the knife, as the final step to remove any remaining tiny burr bits.
You may Repeat this last process one time to check if more improvement. However, you do not want to overdo any leather stropping. Too many stropping repetitions on the leather may burnish and eventually round off the apex of the blade, causing a duller cutting edge.
There you have it an overview of my experience of finish stropping techniques on stones or on leather strops.
@stringer recently made a post, that included a stropping video, which inspired me to finally record it this morning.
To preface this post: There is always ‘more than one way to skin a cat.’ But in my professional life I am always looking for the most efficient and straightforward methodology for technical applications and procedures.
This post represents my findings in the realm of FUNCTIONAL edge refinement for kitchen knives-- up until this point. All info here is designed to be simple to follow, easy to apply, and highly rewarding for any end users.
It is not a definitive guide, but instead a practical account of methods which have served me well. I will always look to improve.
I'm posting this in hopes that it provides someone a shortcut to get better results faster and with less trial and error.
I stress functional edges, because polishing edges to mirror “finishes” has an adverse effect on kitchen performance—so all of my testing and feedback here is related to making blades bada$$ kitchen performers only!
I have experimented with stropping steel on leather after stone sharpening and compared that with “stropping strokes” on stones only. I have had success with both methods, and have concluded which I prefer.
Here are my findings. Why I prefer one over the other. And, most importantly, instructions on HOW TO DO BOTH METHODS OF STROPPING: 1) On Stones ONLY & 2) On leather
The following examples work off a progression, of 400 > 1000 > 3000 > Hard Finishing JNat (which still keeps toothy/ functional edges for kitchen duties – for the sake of a grit equivalent let’s call it 6-8k).
The following methods will work for sharpening a friend’s random victronix, a hardened AS, Spicy White, or some of the new super Steels such as Apex Ultra and the like.
CONTEXT
For both Methods Below:
ALL Sharpening Strokes are Edge TRAILING (Move the blade in a motion that simulates the blade, and the edge, are moving away from the stone. )
ALL 'Stropping' Strokes (on stone) are Edge LEADING (Opposite of edge Trailing---Move the blade in a motion that simulates the edge cutting INTO the stone.)
STROPPING METHOD #1: "STROPPING Strokes” ON STONES ONLY: With a kick a$$ Hard Finishing JNat (my preferred method)
For this Method – THERE IS NO USE of a leather or denim strop. With this method the stones remove all the burr and exactingly refine the apex to a sexy super sharp edge.
For the first strokes of EACH New Stone in the progression – Start with edge leading strokes.
This applies when moving to 1000, after 400, and then moving to 3000 after 1000. And, if applicable, when moving to a Finishing JNat after 3k—if you have that option.
The first strokes on the new higher grit stone are STROPPING (edge leading) motions.
ONLY Running edge leading strokes, when starting with a new stone, helps to loosen and remove the burr from the previous coarser stone’s work more easily.
Moving in the opposite motion of the previous grit’s sharpening causes more friction and also helps to jar loose the connection of the burr (the thin excess metal) from the intended apex (the point at which both sides of the edge come together like this ^ ) you’re working to achieve.
For instance, when moving from 400 to 1000 grit, use only the pressure from the weight of your fingers guiding the blade, and start with edge leading strokes, say 8 to 10 strokes on each side of the blade into the 1000 grit stone.
After completing 8-10 edge leading stropping strokes on the 1000 grit, it’s time to actually sharpen that edge with 1000-- so flip the blade over in your hand.
Now ALL Sharpening on 1000 grit is performed with edge trailing strokes. Sharpen the stone until you form a sufficient and equal burr on the entire edge of one side of the blade. Then flip the knife over and sharpen equally to move the steel to counteract the burr and bring back an equal apex.
NOTE: Personally, I recommend keeping track of how much sharpening was done on the first side of the blade, so I can match that on the other side of the blade. I’ve found this helps to create a uniform burr more easily on the first side of the blade. This is important, because the primary burr sets the stage for apex creation at each grit’s sharpening stage.
Some people keep track with counting individual strokes, while others have procedures that are always fixed at X number of strokes in different sections. No matter how you keep track, performing the same amount of work on the other side of the blade will be more precise and efficient with time,
IMO if you sharpen with the same number of strokes, angle, and pressure – on both side of the blade – you will make an equal burr on both sides of the blade. If this is accomplished properly, when checking it will feel as if there is no detectable burr on the apex. That is at least that's what I have found to be the most efficient and precise process for me.
After the burr pretty much feels non-existent (to your checking method) on both sides of the blade, now fully rinse off the stone with water to remove all collected slurry and swarf.
We don't want slurry or swarf because they are both contain particulates of either the abrasive particles from the stone (slurry) and/or the removed metal pieces from the blade (swarf). We want a clean stone, with enough water to fully wet the entire surface of the stone, to move the blade over this stone for the last strokes in an adjusted method that is further refining the Apex.
In this method, the last strokes to performed on any final Grit are SINGLE ALTERNATING EDGE TRAILING STROKES-- ON EACH SIDE OF THE BLADE AT A TIME.
While only performing single strokes at a time, adjust the downward pressure on the blade to only use the weight of your fingers to engage the blade to the stone.
Both adjustments of A) single strokes on a side, with B) only utilizing the pressure of the fingers, allow for exacting precision to close out this grit. By keeping the amount of sharpening on each side equal with each stroke, we know the exact amount of metal being removed with each stroke.
After feeling no, or close to no burr on either side of the blade, after performing alternating single edge trailing strokes, now move to the next stone in the progression.
IN this example, it is now time to move to the 3000 grit.
Repeat the process from the 1000 grit stone. Start with to edge leading strokes for the first 6-10 strokes.
Then go into sharpening mode with edge trailing strokes only.
After you've fully sharpened on both sides, flush the stone under water, cleaning it completely with some manual agitation to remove and embedded swarf.
Final "Stropping motions" with the Last Stone in your Progression (in this case a Hard JNat finisher)
With a clean and wet stone, using only the weight of the blade:
Lightly perform 4-6 edge leading strokes, per side, for any deburring. Then flip the blade over and only perform Edge Trailing strokes, alternating one stroke per side-- in sets of 10. After a set of 10 then check your edge.
IF not quite where you want it, perform another set of 10 strokes, in the same fashion and check.
Repeat this until you achieve suitable edge sharpness.
In final stone stropping we don’t want a stone slurry and want plenty of water so any edge refinement (metal removal) that occurs is instantly flushed away by the water—thus creating the most even refinement.
STROPPING METHOD #2: STROPPING ON A Leather Strop. (Compounds are optional, but not necessary.)
For this Method – A leather or denim strop is used, to remove any remaining pieces of the burr to create consistency for the apex’s cutting surface.
Everything from Method #1 is the same, EXCEPT the finial finishing.
Progress through the stones the same. Except there is no JNAT, so the sharpening would end at 3k. Then proceed to a leather strop.
Final "Stropping steps" are performed on a Dual Sided Leather Strop,
USE ONLY EDGE TRAILING STROKES ON A LEATHER STROP.
Start with the rough textured leather side of the strop to remove any larger or more stubborn pieces of metal which make up the burr. Using medium pressure, perform 6-8 edge trailing strokes—alternating one stroke per side, for any coarse deburring.
OPTIONAL: before deburring, you may add an even layer of coarse stropping compound (usually green) directly to the rough side of the strop. This will further aid in any removal of larger burr particles, while adding a bit of final refinement to the edge. I prefer to leave the smooth side of the stop bare, as I tend to believe polishing compound encourages the mind to "sharpen" more.
After the blade is deburred on the coarse side of the strop, it’s time for the final step— smooth leather stropping.
Flip the strop over to the smooth leather side.
Strop the edge of blade with the smooth leather. Gently stropping the entire cutting edge using edge trailing strokes, applying only enough pressure to make gentle contact with the leather.
Perform 3-4 strokes, alternating between sides of the knife, as the final step to remove any remaining tiny burr bits.
You may Repeat this last process one time to check if more improvement. However, you do not want to overdo any leather stropping. Too many stropping repetitions on the leather may burnish and eventually round off the apex of the blade, causing a duller cutting edge.
There you have it an overview of my experience of finish stropping techniques on stones or on leather strops.
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