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finishing at 1k?

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M1k3

Aiyeh
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Edge trailing = burr may or may not fall off

Edge leading = GOOD RIDDANCE BURR!
 

panda

O.G.
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Have a question to you all.

I used to work with house knives at restaurant. Couple days ago I bought a MAC MTH-80 to try at work. On restaurant type polyethylene board I used it two days. At first, out of box performance was really good. No chips nothing. I worked on let's say 10-30 lbs of brussels sprouts, zucchini, squash, red/green bell pepper, onions, 40 lbs of each idaho, sweet and red potatoes. I do this process 2-3 times in a week. (I only used black MAC hone 2-3 times.)

Now it resists cutting a bit. I don't want to say dull cause it's not. It's still in decent shape (now I understand to MAC's reputation) but for example I can't easily cut tomatoes.

I can not say I'm experienced with AUS-8 steel and don't know where to stop.
So here's my question what would you suggest me:

1) Sharpen it on Chosera 800 and Strop (Herald's Red Compound)
2) Sharpen it on Chosera 800+3000 / with or without strop?
3) Thin it (cause it's brand new) and go with option 1 or option 2 above?

Thank you.
option 1
 

GeneH

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.... 10-30 lbs of brussels sprouts, zucchini, squash, red/green bell pepper, onions, 40 lbs of each idaho, sweet and red potatoes. I do this process 2-3 times in a week. (I only used black MAC hone 2-3 times.)
Everytime I read how much a real user does with their knife, I realize I don't know shtufff from shinola about sharpening for a longer lasting working edge. I'm such an amateur, even for a home cook and occasional Whitetail deer butchering. It's humbling.
 

kayman67

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With the right sequence and proper technique, edge retention gets pretty good even for "poor" alloys. Edge leading is still the leading way to get things working as best as possible the fastest way possible, but proved to be quite a challenge for most people. Same as fine grits, especially if the stones are a bit softer.
 

M1k3

Aiyeh
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With the right sequence and proper technique, edge retention gets pretty good even for "poor" alloys. Edge leading is still the leading way to get things working as best as possible the fastest way possible, but proved to be quite a challenge for most people. Same as fine grits, especially if the stones are a bit softer.
Reminds me of the times my attention slightly dwindles... Progression being 500 -> 4k -> :eek: -> 500 -> 4k
 

ian

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Reminds me of the times my attention slightly dwindles... Progression being 500 -> 4k -> :eek: -> 500 -> 4k
I’ve had progressions with crap stainless that were like 800 -> 2000 -> hmmmm -> 800 -> 2000 -> rrrrrg -> Atoma 140 -> 300 -> 800 -> 2000 ->😊
 

M1k3

Aiyeh
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Definitely crap stainless, especially extremely dull crap stainless, need low grit. Got to get past the "bent back and forth steel that's acting like a paperclip" steel.
 
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ModRQC

Kurouchi Down!
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Steel that’s been pushed beyond the apex through abrasion and plastic deformation; « underneath » is the fresh edge, if apexed well. As @Benuser would say do not confuse with accumulating debris on the edge bevel.
 

OnionSlicer

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What exactly is a burr? Is it like the sloppy sex towel that needs to get tossed out after every act?
You're close. As you grind your hard steel against the soft, wet stone, a build up inevitably begins to take place that soon overflows the apex of your blade. This formation must be removed to keep your tool clean and in good working order, but care must also be taken not to let it load up into the stone in order to avoid problems down the line.
 

M1k3

Aiyeh
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Damnit. I was reading thru from the last page and started laughing because I had a feeling it was coming but I resisted from watching it again.
I was going to tag you but thought the surprise would be better.
 
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