First Wa Handle

Discussion in 'Handiwork Display' started by Huntdad, Feb 14, 2020.

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  1. Feb 14, 2020 #1

    Huntdad

    Huntdad

    Huntdad

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    Well thanks to this forum I've started making handles. First knives then stones now another rabbit hole.
    I used the dowel technique on this one.

    Built a table for cutting dowels and small stock safely on my miter saw.
     

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  2. Feb 14, 2020 #2

    Huntdad

    Huntdad

    Huntdad

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    Stabilized box Elder Burl with red buffalo horn.
    Glue up with these clamps I cut a slot in so I can remove the blade. Used WestSystems G Flex Epoxy.
     

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  3. Feb 14, 2020 #3

    Huntdad

    Huntdad

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    Finished by sanding to 2000 grit and polishing with rubbing compound.
     

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  4. Feb 14, 2020 #4

    Huntdad

    Huntdad

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    A few things I learned:
    Use a dowel commensurate with the blade tang. I used a 1/2 inch for this Mazaki 210. Will use 3/8 for some pettys I will do next.
    Take a silver sharpie and mark a straight line on top of the ferrule and the handle material before you glue up and after you get the blade true. Gives a good reference for glue up.
    Make sure your blade and dowel slide in and out without a lot of friction. Check for the angle you want the blade canted relative to the handle. Take your time and get it perfect. Epoxy and beeswax will hold fine.
    Use a Forstner bit to drill from the backside of the ferrule for the dowel. Drill this hole deep and leave about 3/8 inch to cut your slot into. Use a small drill bit to make a pilot hole from the other end to center the forstner bit.
    Buy and use one of these to mark center of the ferrule https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D943QD6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    Use a drill press and go slow for any drilling.
    Square your work with a saw not your belt sander. Taper on the belt sander and any small tapers on the ends of the handle do by hand on paper and a granite surface plate.
    Use your calipers and measure and mark a lot.
    Spend a lot of time sanding by hand on the granite slab and lower grits.
    After all you do to get it right chances are the blade won't fit as you want when you finish.
    Use your files and small rasps and a long drill bit if needed.
    I used beeswax to fill up the slot, heated the blade, and will see how that works. I want it sealed but want to be able to remove the blade as well.

    I don't have a ton of time so this took me a few days working when I could. Sanding is a *****.

    I plan to eventually make some mammoth handles for a Full Moon Honyaki and a TF Denka.

    Have 2 pettys up next and will post when complete.

    Again, thanks to this forum and all the folks who have helped me over the years.
     
  5. Feb 14, 2020 #5

    M1k3

    M1k3

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    Nice work!
     
  6. Feb 14, 2020 #6

    Gjackson98

    Gjackson98

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    Great job! Enjoyed reading your summary! If you want to do Mammoth handles next, my best suggestion is a bucket of ice water or ice pack. You do not want to overheat the mammoth, it will break easily.
     
  7. Feb 14, 2020 #7

    Huntdad

    Huntdad

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    Thanks for the advice Gjackson. Probably gonna do the mommoth all by hand very slowly. It scares me. Gonna be a while before I take on the mammoth....

    Another thing of note I am using this bladeon my miter saw:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C3HVIWC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    I absolutely love the miter saw for this task once I made that jig. Easy to keep small stuff square. If you look close I use that slotted wood piece to push stock against the fence and the other clamp to hold down to the table. Even I can cut buffalo horn stock square if I clamp it right.

    I also like to push cut a lot and like my handle set referenced to the most used cutting portion of the blade as opposed to the top of the blade. Probably not the norm but it works for me.

    Got a lot to learn and thanks to the folks here who got me this far.
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2020
  8. Feb 15, 2020 #8

    JoBone

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    Well done, Nice write up !!
     
  9. Feb 15, 2020 #9

    Huntdad

    Huntdad

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    Better Pic of slot cut in wood clamp.
     

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  10. Feb 17, 2020 #10

    Huntdad

    Huntdad

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    Did this one today. Need to take it down a bit.
    Was in a hurry after quail hunting and trying to watch the DT500...then it got rained out.
     

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  11. Feb 17, 2020 #11

    Caleb Cox

    Caleb Cox

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    What are the handle materials? That ferrule looks interesting.
     
  12. Feb 17, 2020 #12

    Huntdad

    Huntdad

    Huntdad

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    Stabilized box elder. Have another I am working with the brown used for the ferrule and will post when complete. I bought it on Etsy and the guy is great to deal with.
     
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  13. Feb 20, 2020 #13

    Huntdad

    Huntdad

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    Latest Handle.
     

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  14. Feb 20, 2020 #14

    Caleb Cox

    Caleb Cox

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    Very nice! What's the wood?
     
  15. Feb 20, 2020 #15

    Huntdad

    Huntdad

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    Last edited: Feb 20, 2020
  16. Feb 23, 2020 #16

    ForeverLearning

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    Nice work! I should look to use the mitre saw a lot more in the shop. Far more cost effective squaring up with that than disc sander
     
  17. Feb 23, 2020 #17

    captaincaed

    captaincaed

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    This is exactly the type of hobbyist experience I was hoping to find. I'm going to install a handle in a bit, first time. Really good to see some tips.
     
  18. Feb 23, 2020 #18

    Nomo4me

    Nomo4me

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    Great work!
     

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