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I have not been sharpening very long. I started with a basic kit of poor combo stones, and, despite good results, decided to upgrade immediately. I decided on a Chosera 1000, a Chosera 3000, and a Suehiro Debado LD 601 6000. They are night and day from what I started with - fast, controlled, durable. That said, that's a lot of scratch to drop on stones - 70euros for the 1000, 120euros for the 3000 and 145euros for the 6000. I'm happy with it, but it's a lot unless you use them a lot.
 
I skipped to the end, so I'm sorry if this has been said already.

If you go with shapton glass stones you will definitely need a stone holder, they are much to short to use without one. You can sharpen off the side of the counter, but that is really not comfortable.

What if you have a bridge and put the stone atop of another one to gain clearance?
 
What if you have a bridge and put the stone atop of another one to gain clearance?
Yeah you can use a bridge like that. If you want to go the cheaper route a stone holder is the way to go. If you buy a bridge, the kind that looks like a giant stone holder may be your best bet in this case.
 
What is your other recommendations for a beginner? Iam open for other suggestions.
Other Recommendations...?

For Videos/Tutorials? None for now. too much information becomes too hard to digest. Watch some of Jon's. Sharpen your new knife. Use and enjoy your new knife. Sharpen some of your older knives. Rewatch Jon's videos. Repeat the above.

For Stones? I think for beginners, the two sided stones are often overlooked. King, Suehiro, Gesshin. My King 1k/6k, also in the custody of my daughter, is 20+ years old. If I had it in my bucket I'd use it. And it could easily last this home cook another 25 years. BUT...because I like the slightly larger stones (8x3" vs 7x2.5") the Gesshin and Shap Glass work out to being about the same price, so thats a toss up (except Jon provides a huge level of support to this community)
 
I mentioned my stones earlier, but... as someone who only started sharpening recently:

1. Hit YouTube and watch some videos there. There are a bunch of good ones. Just remember that nobody is "right." There are a ton of different ways to skin this cat. Which is a strange analogy, and now an unneeded digression. Watch a few different ones - Jon Broida is good and an active member of this community, other good ones are Korin, Sharp, Carter, Kramer, etc. All of them have forgotten more about sharpening than you'll probably ever learn.

2. For added confidence, go ahead and test out your new, inexistant skills on something not all that important to you. I'll mention this again below: except in crazy rare cases, it's almost impossible to do permanent, irreversible harm to your knives, but you also probably don't want to start off on a 500 dollar blade - the fear factor alone will probably stunt your learning. I had a few 17 year old mid-quality knives around, the chef's was in good shape as it goes, but a utulity and paring were pretty rough. I also spent 3 euros at the extreme discount store down the street from me on an piece of stamped absolute garbage. I did the paring, the utility (both of which had chips and other deformations) first, dulled the 3 euro special on a rock and did that one. Results were... eh? But it gave me the confidence to attack my acceptable-conditioned chef's and bring it back to better than new. Yeah, they are all scuffed up thanks to horrible technique, but I learned what works for me and what doesn't, really. And I now have a 17 year old, soft steel Mundial chef's knife that shaves hair, slices paper and horizontally push-cuts micro-thin wafers of tomato, just like a real YouTube star.

3. Once you are there, go ahead and take a whack at something lovely. I have a beautiful Moritaki AS Nakiri. I love the form, I haven't had any issue with the Ku finish, the knife and I were made for one another. It was very sharp out of the box, but the edge was significantly dulled after just two hour-long prep sessions. It went from "show off video to a friend" sharp to "can't cleanly slice a tomato." I used my still-learning skills on the 3k (I didn't have the 6k yet) to refine the edge a bit, stropped it, and it was back to razor sharp. I didn't damage the finish, and felt pretty confident. I also didn't significantly change the stock edge. Well, a bit later, after several more hard core prep sessions, it was feeling again a bit dull - not bad per se, but no badass razor either. Basically, I questioned the OOB edge geometry. I examined it as closely as I could, and came up with my plan of action. 10 minutes later, after a new edge, deburr and polish on the 1k, then a lengthy polish on the 6k, then stropping with very fine compound, and it's effortlessly shaving hair and what not. I'm still learning, and it's an amazing feeling to make incremental progress on beautiful tools, making them fit your needs. As I mentioned above, it's almost impossible that you outright destroy your knife doing this. You might wear it a bit more, you might have to sharpen it twice or three times if you make a mistake, but you won't ruin it unless you TRY to ruin it.

That's my two cents, and they may well not be worth even that much.
 
One more word about the Chosera / Professional series, they are good stones, but I think they are overpriced from a certain grit size.


In addition, the Naniwa Chosera's are known for that they tend to develop hairline cracks at the higher grit numbers ...

imo the naniwa are too expensive for the 3k and up. the 2k is kinda expensive too but its very good.
i'd say the 800 and 400 are fair priced.

did anyone say naniwa cracks? :eek:🧐🤔

IMG_9396.jpg
 
I'd definitely recommend watching the playlist Japanese Knife Imports has on YouTube. Including the video with Peter Nowlan A.K.A. @Sailor. And watch his videos also. That will give you good base to start sharpening with. Once you're able to consistently get your knife sharper than it was when you started, explore some other videos.

Like @stringer's video
@TSF415
 
I'd definitely recommend watching the playlist Japanese Knife Imports has on YouTube. Including the video with Peter Nowlan A.K.A. @Sailor. And watch his videos also. That will give you good base to start sharpening with. Once you're able to consistently get your knife sharper than it was when you started, explore some other videos.

Like @stringer's video
@TSF415


You should watch this video a few times.
 
Haven't seen cracks with the Naniwa Pros. Perhaps the fact they're thinner and have no base has an effect: both allow a more even drying.
I experienced cracking with the Chosera 5k after letting it soak by inadvertance. Was meant for a few minutes and I forgot it. My guess is the upper side got dry while the inner part stayed wet for a much longer time due to the base. Have been told that changes permanently the structure of magnesia bound stones. Since, I only apply a bit of water on the upper side.
I certainly would not use sealing, as it hinders even drying.
 
Obviously not sealing NPs, but the stone pictured looked either like it was sealed, either like it rot all throughout but the surface or something. Of course light+angle play tricks, hence why I asked....
 
Haven't seen cracks with the Naniwa Pros. Perhaps the fact they're thinner and have no base has an effect: both allow a more even drying.
I experienced cracking with the Chosera 5k after letting it soak by inadvertance. Was meant for a few minutes and I forgot it. My guess is the upper side got dry while the inner part stayed wet for a much longer time due to the base. Have been told that changes permanently the structure of magnesia bound stones. Since, I only apply a bit of water on the upper side.
I certainly would not use sealing, as it hinders even drying.
Isn't that the opposite theory behind sealing natural stones? Usually naturals prone to cracking are sealed on all sides but the top, which is said to prevent cracking by making the stone dry more slowly. Is there something different about chosera's stone composition that would make evenness of drying more important than speed?
 
On the @inferno picture I easily recognise the 800 and 3k NP. Not so with the cracked one. My Chosera 2k is ochre-yellow. What is it?

its a snow white 8k supposedly. not my stones. just one of the most spectacular surface cracking i have seen on a stone.
 
magnesium based stones such as Chosera will easily crack if prolong soaked in water.
 
Hi. Iam going to buy my first Japanese knife. It will be a Yoshikane Nashiji white 2. So I think I need to buy some whetstones as well. Iam planning to buy a shapton glass 1k, a 3k and a chef knives to go diamond flattening stone for 30 dolars. I don’t want to spend to much on flatenning stones. Do I need to buy a stone holder or a sink bridge. Finally which tutorial I should follow?

Thanks in Advance

I'm sure these 30 posts have resolved any confusion you may have started with! My $0.02 is that you may find a leather strop with some diamond spray or other compound very helpful to complement your stones, and stropping is an inexpensive, effective and pleasurable way to provide a finishing touch after sharpening. I often strop right after even light kitchen use to maintain an edge. Stropping on leather takes just a few seconds and there's no mess.
 
Isn't that the opposite theory behind sealing natural stones? Usually naturals prone to cracking are sealed on all sides but the top, which is said to prevent cracking by making the stone dry more slowly. Is there something different about chosera's stone composition that would make evenness of drying more important than speed?
I'm fully aware my approach is controversial. Very experienced and respected members have defended the base with the old Choseras as the way to protect against cracking, while I have reasons to believe it's rather one of the sources of a lot of problems.
Have no experience with Japanese naturals, so I can't comment on sealing them. I just wouldn't seal my own Choseras or Naniwa Pros as it hinders even drying.
 
I'm fully aware my approach is controversial. Very experienced and respected members have defended the base with the old Choseras as the way to protect against cracking, while I have reasons to believe it's rather one of the sources of a lot of problems.
Have no experience with Japanese naturals, so I can't comment on sealing them. I just wouldn't seal my own Choseras or Naniwa Pros as it hinders even drying.
I don't doubt you, we're just in different boats - I have a few natural stones but never tried choseras. My experience is that naturals crack when they're unsealed, so I'm curious why they behave differently.
 
I'm a total newb to sharpening but one of the reasons I avoided the Snow White was the stories of cracking. I'm really happy with the Suehiro Debado LD601 (6000 rated).
 
That possessed razor honer with the strong opinions that sounds like he uses too many stimulants on youtube says that Gouken Arata doesn't crack.
 
imo the naniwa are too expensive for the 3k and up. the 2k is kinda expensive too but its very good.
i'd say the 800 and 400 are fair priced.

did anyone say naniwa cracks? :eek:🧐🤔

IMG_9396.jpg
My Snow White looks just like that one, IMO the 5000k and 10000k are way over priced but I would buy the 3000k again and again. All my Chosera’s have a base, no soak, no seal, no cracks after three years.
 
Haven't seen cracks with the Naniwa Pros. Perhaps the fact they're thinner and have no base has an effect: both allow a more even drying.
I experienced cracking with the Chosera 5k after letting it soak by inadvertance. Was meant for a few minutes and I forgot it. My guess is the upper side got dry while the inner part stayed wet for a much longer time due to the base. Have been told that changes permanently the structure of magnesia bound stones. Since, I only apply a bit of water on the upper side.
I certainly would not use sealing, as it hinders even drying.

my 800 pro has started showing a few spiderweb cracks just from regular use. and its not really one of my high use stones.

so i decieded to seal my 2k and 800 with clear coat. so when in use at least only the top of the stone can leach out magnesia binder. i guess it would reduce the risk of it cracking in 2.

i dont think the water gets very deep in the pros, maybe a mm or 2. they dry fairly fast. as opposed to a cerax or similar that takes a week to dry.
 
Chicken livers sautéed, with shallots, mushrooms, port wine, and dried cranberries. Recipe was from Jacques Pépin. Chicken liver is very inexpensive, but rich and very delicious -- unless you simply don't like liver.

IMG_1397.jpeg


Also, I trimmed the livers before cooking, including removal of the tiny gall bladders and the hilar biliary duct complex. I bet ya'll didn't know chickens get gallstones! Here's one of two that I came across during tonight's dissection:

(Actual diameter was around 1 mm.)

IMG_1396.jpeg
 
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