Forgecraft hi carbon 9.75 Chef's Knife

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Roastveg

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I love this knife! I find that I'm creeping pretty far forward with my pinch grip when I need extra agility. (balance pt. seems to be about an inch in front of the handle) Has anyone ground in a choil on one of these and/or softened the spine? If so, did you do it to make your pinch grip more comfortable and did it work?

Thanks in advance for your time and feedback!
 
I have never done this to that specific blade, but I have done it on a number of Japanese blades, for exactly the same reason. Yes, it definitely does make gripping the knife more comfortable. Some of the better makers, who are concerned with fit and finish make easing the spine and choil a part of their process.
 
Thanks man!
I will circle back. I will probably just go easy a little bit at a time until it feels right!
 
I have done both, but have not focussed on the balance point. Softening/crating/grinding a choil is much harder then working on the spine...
 
Thanks guys! Wasn't sure what grit I would start with. That's a great heads up on finishing with the 2K. I may not have to do anything with the choil. I would probably have gone at that with a Dremel to start but that's also a great heads up on the work there. Could be a little rabbit hole to try and get it just right. Perhaps just soften it a bit.

Thanks always for your feedback!
 
I started at 220, and moved up a grit progression to smooth the appearance. I generally finished at 1000, but the high the grit to more finished the feel and look. I was always scared to try the Dremel. They take metal off so quickly that I was afraid I would make a dimple that would be hard to smooth out. Your hand might be steadier than mine though. An artist, I am not!
 
Gotchya! I was thinking of using the Dremel to curve the choil (indent) a tad for my middle finger but I'm leaving it alone. Maybe just soften it a bit with the 1K / 2K.
 
So you mean not just rounding the choil, but removing material to change the profile? You could move the heel forward a few mm or create a TF-style finger rest. I like using a dremel with reinforced cutoff wheel for that type of work. You can use it the normal way to rough-cut the basic shape leaving a ~1mm margin for error, then use the edge of the wheel to grind the finished profile. My hand isn't particularly steady but I was able to get a nice smooth curve that way.
 
NO ChoP! said:
Dremels like to travel. One slip and you've got a trail across your blade face that's really hard to get rid of.
Click to expand...
Yes indeed!
spaceconvoy said:
So you mean not just rounding the choil, but removing material to change the profile? You could move the heel forward a few mm or create a TF-style finger rest. I like using a dremel with reinforced cutoff wheel for that type of work. You can use it the normal way to rough-cut the basic shape leaving a ~1mm margin for error, then use the edge of the wheel to grind the finished profile. My hand isn't particularly steady but I was able to get a nice smooth curve that way.
Click to expand...
Got it! Yes, was thinking of putting a very slight belly forward in the back of the heel and then softening the edges of course. Is that called a choil ?
 
NO ChoP! said:
Dremels like to travel. One slip and you've got a trail across your blade face that's really hard to get rid of.
Click to expand...
I didn't find the dremel difficult to control on its lowest speed. The only problem I had was when trying to cut too acutely to the edge, less than 10 degrees off from the existing spine. Doing it again I would have been more conservative and spent more time grinding off a larger margin, but I'd still use the dremel. Could always lay down multiple layers of tape or even make a wooden jig if you want to be extra careful. What would you use for this type of project? All the alternatives I could think of (without buying new tools) seemed painfully slow.
 
Yeah, removing that much metal and I would probably risk the Dremel too. I have never undertaken something like that on hardened blade metal. I just rounded the choil. Not sure how else to do it. Bench grinder?
 
I would probably try a bench mounted dremel with a 1/2" round stone, stone, slow speed, water drip. But I'm just going to ease/smooth the shoulders of the spine and the back of the heel.
Thanks everyone!!!
 
I used the dremel super rough sand paper wheel to make rounded out heel. Didn’t take long at all and the finish was pretty smooth. Went to the higher grit wheels to get a nice smooth finish.
 
Before and after
E3B4E455-3F57-4286-81A9-D3D62411E7DE.jpeg
0AACE9F7-F1FD-4EA8-AD07-282524370D1E.jpeg
 
Looks perfect ! Maybe I will hollow mine out a tad.
 

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Did it make a big difference for you drsmp? Not just comfort but feel for the last inch of the tip of the blade?
 
@Roastveg I use a pinch grip and the modified HF is much more comfortable for me . Start at mid heel with the sanding wheel and work your way up to the tang so you don’t mess up the handle. I make a template with blue masking tape to make sure I like the shape and once taped on the blade helps guide the metal removal. Taping the areas nearby that you aren’t working on helps prevent unintended damage.
 
drsmp said:
@Roastveg I use a pinch grip and the modified HF is much more comfortable for me . Start at mid heel with the sanding wheel and work your way up to the tang so you don’t mess up the handle. I make a template with blue masking tape to make sure I like the shape and once taped on the blade helps guide the metal removal. Taping the areas nearby that you aren’t working on helps prevent unintended damage.
Click to expand...
Thank you!
I'm all in!
 
It would be easier to rehandle it and move the handle back 1/4" + you'd have a nice handle.
 
29palms said:
It would be easier to rehandle it and move the handle back 1/4" + you'd have a nice handle.
Click to expand...
That would be cool also but the balance point is about 7/8ths of an inch in front of the handle which is where I like to pinch the blade.

Thank you!
 
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