So, you are saying you can't thin with a belt system? I have never thinned so I don't know.
Here is a video.
Work Sharp Ken Onion Edition Elite Sharpener - Everything you need to know - YouTube
FREEHAND vs. SHARPENING SYSTEM
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So, you are saying you can't thin with a belt system? I have never thinned so I don't know.
Here is a video.
Work Sharp Ken Onion Edition Elite Sharpener - Everything you need to know - YouTube
A worksharp only does convex edges, not concave. With the blade grinding attachment you can pull off a flat bevel with the platen, but you generally still get some rounding at the shoulders unless you modify it with a piece of glass or something.
To answer the question about burrs, the basic sharpening attachment has the belt running up one side and done the other, so it’s does edge leading on one side and edge trailing on the other, so you’re basically building a burr on then cutting it off on the other, and since you’re switching sides every stroke, by the time you get to finer belts the burr is usually minimal if there at all. You actually can see little bits of foil flying off when you use it. If there is one, it can be managed with a strop, a rod, a stone, or whatever other method you typically manage a burr with. A drag through a piece of wood should be sufficient at that point.
You wouldnt use a worksharp for real thinning. With the blade grinding attachment it could be used for thinning very small blades but its pretty awkward getting to certain spots, and the original sharpener is not really designed for anything other than putting on and sharpening a convex edge.
With the attachments it was a fun machine to fool around on and learn, but I’ve come to the conclusion its a little too restrictive and mostly moved on. I still keep them around for certain tasks, for instance I have one that I just keep a diamond loaded stropping belt on as an occasional finishing move.
But I think for a certain segment of people, it is a fine solution for maintaining kitchen and pocket knives. Maybe with a little education on the dangers of overheating. It’s not a perfect solution but it does work.
To answer the question about burrs, the basic sharpening attachment has the belt running up one side and done the other, so it’s does edge leading on one side and edge trailing on the other, so you’re basically building a burr on then cutting it off on the other, and since you’re switching sides every stroke, by the time you get to finer belts the burr is usually minimal if there at all. You actually can see little bits of foil flying off when you use it. If there is one, it can be managed with a strop, a rod, a stone, or whatever other method you typically manage a burr with. A drag through a piece of wood should be sufficient at that point.
You wouldnt use a worksharp for real thinning. With the blade grinding attachment it could be used for thinning very small blades but its pretty awkward getting to certain spots, and the original sharpener is not really designed for anything other than putting on and sharpening a convex edge.
With the attachments it was a fun machine to fool around on and learn, but I’ve come to the conclusion its a little too restrictive and mostly moved on. I still keep them around for certain tasks, for instance I have one that I just keep a diamond loaded stropping belt on as an occasional finishing move.
But I think for a certain segment of people, it is a fine solution for maintaining kitchen and pocket knives. Maybe with a little education on the dangers of overheating. It’s not a perfect solution but it does work.
Aaaaah.. hmmmm… lol… nevermind.
Question was about worksharp.
Can you show me a picture of your stropping setup? I want to try it.
Where did you get your stropping belt, I need one?
What do you use now?
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Yea I usually do a compound bevel on those types of cheap stainless knives too, with a pretty conservative primary angle.
Also, just used my new fancy 2x72 on a first batch of 15 client knives. I have no belt skills yet, really… a third of the time I forget to tension the belt before starting the motor. 
But man, it’s so nice doing the initial chip and weak steel removal on the belt…. Not as much need for super low grit stones. So fast, so easy, so much nicer on the body. Looking forward to eventually becoming worthy of the machine.
But man, it’s so nice doing the initial chip and weak steel removal on the belt…. Not as much need for super low grit stones. So fast, so easy, so much nicer on the body. Looking forward to eventually becoming worthy of the machine.
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Also, just used my new fancy 2x72 on a first batch of 15 client knives. I have no belt skills yet, really… a third of the time I forget to tension the belt before starting the motor.
But man, it’s so nice doing the initial chip and weak steel removal on the belt…. Not as much need for super low grit stones. So fast, so easy, so much nicer on the body. Looking forward to eventually becoming worthy of the machine.
What model did you get?
It’s an Ameribrade. Seems great so far. 3hp variable speed motor, but quieter than my cheap 1x30.
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So you’d recommend a 3” or 4” wide bench beltsander?
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IIRC it was @Dave Martell who wrote that repeatability is the less relevant notion when sharpening. The reason is, the entire configuration moves to another, slightly thicker part of the blade. If you want the new edge to perform in the same way as the old one before it got dull, you should start by thinning behind the edge before reaching the very edge. I start a full sharpening by thinning at the lowest angle with a 320 stone and only little by little raise the spine, until the very edge got reached. It allows the bevel to form a continuous arc with the face. No shoulders.
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I would like to add a more personal note. When I started stone sharpening, it was quite a learning curve. The first results were acceptable, but little by little I discovered new problems and new solutions. A process, involving manual abilities and limits, and intellectual ones as well, trying to understand what happens, why others do things in another way , how to explain what is going on and why I do things in my way, all in a foreign language. I found it a most rewarding process. For a very long time I could say, I didn't sharpen a single knife without learning new things.
Luftmensch
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The full-face respirator from 3M is a good hobby grade option. All considered, it is not too expensive and you'd have to spend a significant amount more to get a better mask.
I tried half masks for awhile - I hate to say it... but I wasn't prepared to shave. Unsurprisingly I could never get a great seal.... or maybe it is because I have a weird, horse-face / pin-head?? Either way, I get a much better seal with the full face mask. Since there is a larger sealing area, I can also strap it on tighter without discomfort. As a bonus I dont need safety goggles anymore!
A full-grain, leather apron is likely to feel heavy and stiff. Great for protection around flying bits of hot metal, sparks and heat sources. But they are also likely to be expensive! Might be overkill unless you get into forging? If you want to save some cash, a heavy canvas apron might be sufficient? Either way, also endeavour to wear natural fibre clothing when you are working.
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Dominick Maone
Well-Known Member
I wear a half mask, full face shield, and ear muffs when grinding on 2x72. If I am grind profiles I will wear safety glasses too just to be redundant. What was that guy going that both his chest and head were hurt? Looks like he was grinding in reverse and something exploded.
I like free handing on stones. I like the lansky system too. I don’t use the lansky any longer because I am confident on stones. I used to set initial bevel on 2x72, but like using and practicing with stones so much I set bevels on stones now.
I like free handing on stones. I like the lansky system too. I don’t use the lansky any longer because I am confident on stones. I used to set initial bevel on 2x72, but like using and practicing with stones so much I set bevels on stones now.
Would definitely work better than KO, if there's enough space available.
KO, with its attachments, it's not designed to work with wide blades for this. No one made something to change the behaviour. Not that I know of.
I don't see how you keep saying there is not enough space? There is all kinds of space. This is the KO elite with the adapter I bought a while back. You can add the adapter to the KO or you can buy it that way. I added mine. Look at the pictures with Ken Onion sharpening a chef's knife.
Elite Knife Sharpening Solution - Work Sharp Sharpeners (worksharptools.com)
1. There's a gap that won't allow for good backing. It's also rather narrow or look at it as not tall enough for a wide blade. They should have made it taller somehow. Some parts of the blade won't be touched at all unless the blade fits. Even so, the gap is another problem.
2. More space, no backing at all. You need to use something. Not an easy task.
3. Just too narrow and problematic to be used for anything better than 1.
These are all the spaces it has usable. None made for working wide blades like that.
Our talk is not about sharpening, but proper thinning wide blades like on a grinder and this is not that.
juice
Doesn't even buy knives
I'm disappointed this took until the fourth post of the thread to appear.
If you adjust the pulley between 2 and 3 to 10 degrees it is going to be mainly flat down only 10 degrees. The picture has the pulley set at 30 degrees down. When I used a used a 4-inch belt sander it is pretty hard to get the vise to hold it perfectly flat. But I have never thinned knives.
I would think the surface contact area on a grinding wheel would not be greater unless you turned the wheel flat then you would have to contend with half the wheel turning one way and the other turning the opposite direction as it touches the blade.
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Thus my number 2 reply.
Better space available, tricky to make good use of it.
Better space available, tricky to make good use of it.
Maybe because here very few people use this?
I guess it's mostly stones (like me) or bigger grinders.
I would think those are some pretty big grinders for home use $$$ especially if you are doing 10 and 12 inch knives.Maybe because here very few people use this?
I guess it's mostly stones (like me) or bigger grinders.
Not cheap for sure. But a full set of KO, with the attachments and good belts, won't be exactly cheap either. Not that the stones are cheap.
tostadas
Hobbyist / Craftsman
Is there anything that a Ken Onion work sharp can't do?
