Thank you very much!
I'm very happy you're so enamored with that knife! It's very encouraging to hear my work is well received, and a little flattering to hear that someone tried to poach off of you. I may have to make more with that taper profile, which if I'm being honest was almost completely accidental. I had some deep peen marks to remove from straightening, and well, that's basically how that taper came to be.Well, I for one am in a trance like state, after having spent a few hours playing with one of your M4 240’s. Such great work with steel choice and heat teeat. I want to ask if you have done smaller blades like steak knives?
Also very sweet quartz spacers!!
P.S. I let a friend use the knife you made me, there was some negotiating for right price before I said no way it’s one of a kind!
I'm very happy you're so enamored with that knife! It's very encouraging to hear my work is well received, and a little flattering to hear that someone tried to poach off of you. I may have to make more with that taper profile, which if I'm being honest was almost completely accidental. I had some deep peen marks to remove from straightening, and well, that's basically how that taper came to be.
I haven't done smaller blades really, though I have done a retrofit for a folding knife once. I would give steak knives a shot, but it's really hard to tell what direction to take when I decide I want to try a new blade style. Not seeing many of a given style up for grabs could mean that there just isn't any interest in them as easily as it could that the people who have them like them so much they never sell them. It's for that reason I stick primarily to gyutos.
Personally, if I were doing smaller, low impact knives like steak knives, I might be tempted to try some ridiculously high wearing steel like S90V or 10V. I think steels like that would excel in that sort of application.
And those stone spacers have to be some of my favourite pieces of work, though it's a real pain to use them. I have to cut the stone and metal simultaneously on a diamond disk, which isn't so bad, but the wood really likes to gum it up, and the heat generated can make to epoxy fail completely so it's a very slow and careful process. And then finishing them so everything is flush fit is another challenge, since the wood, metal and stone all abrade at drastically different rates. The results though, oh they're gorgeous. I got my hands on some tiger iron to use for exactly those kinds of spacers, but I've been so busy I just haven't had to time to put one of those knives together. They're very labor intensive.
It also helps that the feeling I had when first experiencing Crucibles REX CPM-M4 was not just a one off or my dellusions....which I admit can cause a bit of bias...This week's projects. A 52100 honesuki for one of our own, the same O1 gyuto I had to re-heat treat last weekend, 2x 240mmX55mm gyuto, and 2x sujihiki, all from AEB-L.
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I'm experimenting with a new grind on these gyuto. After hearing how elated @pentryumf is with his M4 laser I've been compelled to replicate the grind. I just wanted to adjust it to try to maximize food release, which isn't so easy to accomplish with a thin blade, but I have a theory that I'm going to try out. This blade is just rough ground so far out to 300 grit, hand finishing comes next.
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Something of an unequal taper on the blade. The inside face is cut with a straight taper, but the outside face is cut so that that rear half of the blade is tapered more aggressively than the front. How much of a difference will it make? I can't say for certain, but I get the feeling it will be negligible, except maybe on the hardest of veggies. Still I want to see what I can get.
The current blade taper is 2.70mm @20mm back from the heel, 1.75mm @13cm, and .8mm @1cm., and it will probably lose another .15mm-.25mm during hand finishing.
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On the outside face of this blade I went with an almost fully convex grind. I'd like to see how it compares to a blade with the same taper that has a more abrupt 8-10mm of convexity, but a thinner pre-convex edge thickness.
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Personally, if I were doing smaller, low impact knives like steak knives, I might be tempted to try some ridiculously high wearing steel like S90V or 10V. I think steels like that would excel in that sort of application.
That post was actually one of the ones I read that lead me to include CPM-M4 in that steel order. I'm still very impressed with how the edge feels and sharpens. It's very toothy and very crisp.It also helps that the feeling I had when first experiencing Crucibles REX CPM-M4 was not just a one off or my dellusions....which I admit can cause a bit of bias...
My feelings were based on ‘in hand feeling’ and on stones....which Mr.Dover stated on BF way back in ‘09. Probably not ‘RR’ anymore but possibly ‘flying B’.
I'm skeptical, but I think it's worth looking into. Wouldn't the enamel on the plate be more the concern than the composition of the plate itself though?I think they would cut plates. I don’t think its wise to use high carbide steels on steak knives.
Cinderblock test?Well now, where might that bottom honesuki be headed...
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