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BillHanna said:
Let me get through anniversary and Christmas first. 😂
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Ah yes, buuuuuuutttt...

Don't overlook Christmas for your-self.

Mental Health and well-being is highly neglected and tends to suffer greatly during the holiday season.

This is psychological fact.

You have a FEVER-- the only perscription is a little more rectangle --> from @MSicardCutlery
 
MSicardCutlery said:
300x125 is more that "a little" rectangle
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Yes, its Squarezilla!


potential design options include:

1666890152322.png
 
ch_br said:
Nice workhorse grind!

🤣
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Yes, like one of the workhorses from the first chapter of Gulliver's Travels.


40mm from the heel it's .15mm@2mm, .23mm@5mm, and .43mm@10mm. I had to take 1mm off of the edge though. It was .07mm@2mm, that was too thin.
 

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The latest projects. A bunch of suji in SheffCut (a 26C3 derivative) and 52100, as well as a gyuto in SheffCut and another in CPM CruWear(Z-Wear). There will be 3 honyaki in this lot. I haven't made any in ages and the itch has been needing a scratch. I haven't worked with either SheffCut or CruWear and I'm excited to try them out, as there hasn't been much variety in the steels I use since Apex Ultra was released.
20221107_143755.jpg
 
MSicardCutlery said:
The latest projects. A bunch of suji in SheffCut (a 26C3 derivative) and 52100, as well as a gyuto in SheffCut and another in CPM CruWear(Z-Wear). There will be 3 honyaki in this lot. I haven't made any in ages and the itch has been needing a scratch. I haven't worked with either SheffCut or CruWear and I'm excited to try them out, as there hasn't been much variety in the steels I use since Apex Ultra was released.
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What’s the expected height on the sujis? 👀
 
MSicardCutlery said:
#2 I came at from both sides. This one is a 240mm in AEB-L
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(sigh... so there i was, thinking i could maybe save up the ~$200 for one of his 240mm lasers.... and this happens.)

how would you describe this one's cutting behaviour, in terms of things like... i don't know... how easily it goes through food, wedging / not wedging, whether it steers at all, how the food release is, ... how solid it feels going through harder things like carrots or thick starchy things like potatoes -- that sort of thing.

did you make any of your usual cutting videos with this one, by the way?

also: when you were hollowing-out the sides, any chance you stopped after doing one side (presumably the food release side?) and saw whether having just that one side hollowed out was good enough for improved food release effects... and noticed whether it was cutting weirdly (e.g., steering) if only one side was hollowed out? i'm assuming this started out as a sort of laser before you went at the sides.
 
jsph said:
(sigh... so there i was, thinking i could maybe save up the ~$200 for one of his 240mm lasers.... and this happens.)

how would you describe this one's cutting behaviour, in terms of things like... i don't know... how easily it goes through food, wedging / not wedging, whether it steers at all, how the food release is, ... how solid it feels going through harder things like carrots or thick starchy things like potatoes -- that sort of thing.

did you make any of your usual cutting videos with this one, by the way?

also: when you were hollowing-out the sides, any chance you stopped after doing one side (presumably the food release side?) and saw whether having just that one side hollowed out was good enough for improved food release effects... and noticed whether it was cutting weirdly (e.g., steering) if only one side was hollowed out? i'm assuming this started out as a sort of laser before you went at the sides.
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I haven't done any test cutting with this knife just yet. I've been wanting to, but very busy with customs. I have another like it only ground on one side in 52100 I want to test side by side against it. My understanding is that both hollows decrease drag while the one on the outer face also have the effect of assisting food release. And yes, this was ground as a laser, just with a fairly untapered spine before cutting the hollows.
 
neat... and a 52100, too.

with the technique/equipment you're using to hollow out the sides, is it possible to stay away from the first couple centimeters of the choil end of the blade, around the pinch grip area, and not hollow that out -- maybe give the blade more strength / rigidity / resistance to torsion right where we push down the most, maybe get a more confident feel pushing down through harder/bigger stuff, even if it's still the hollowed sides (farther along) going through the food but with the choil/neck end of the blade at least not giving a bendy feeling?

(... however much it would make these choil shots far less sexy and curvaceous.)

... and i'm assuming that, for the nose end of the blade, once you do the distal taper afterward, that's how you get rid of there being hollows digging into the tip and last bit of belly... because it will taper down to the tip far more than the hollows ever went. (?)
 
jsph said:
neat... and a 52100, too.

with the technique/equipment you're using to hollow out the sides, is it possible to stay away from the first couple centimeters of the choil end of the blade, around the pinch grip area, and not hollow that out -- maybe give the blade more strength / rigidity / resistance to torsion right where we push down the most, maybe get a more confident feel pushing down through harder/bigger stuff, even if it's still the hollowed sides (farther along) going through the food but with the choil/neck end of the blade at least not giving a bendy feeling?

(... however much it would make these choil shots far less sexy and curvaceous.)

... and i'm assuming that, for the nose end of the blade, once you do the distal taper afterward, that's how you get rid of there being hollows digging into the tip and last bit of belly... because it will taper down to the tip far more than the hollows ever went. (?)
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It's certainly possible. I did some test cutting last night with the double cut one. My understanding of the mechanism is correct.

And no, I did all of the grinding then cut the hollows. It takes a little practice, by you can feather cuts in to make a nice slow transition between the tip and the hollow. It could be done in that order, but I would still have to cut it the same way for a smooth transition.
 
makes sense. that's good to know. pretty impressive results from the looks of things so far with this one, for sure. :)
 
Greasylake said:
Out of curiosity, do you have the tooling to do single bevels, or any plans to make them in the future?
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Practicing to make them...that's what the s-grinds really are, I was asked a few weeks back about a yanagi, so I'll building up the toolkit and the skillset. Keeping a nice smooth hollow cut is quite different from grinding flats...it's got a lot in common with belt finishing, but the pressure is all different. As soon as I have another custom finished I can get to that again.
 
Awesome, I'll be looking forward to seeing what you do with those in the future. Single bevels with modern steels and your san-mai and honyaki patterns will be really cool I think :)
 
Greasylake said:
Awesome, I'll be looking forward to seeing what you do with those in the future. Single bevels with modern steels and your san-mai and honyaki patterns will be really cool I think :)
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I'm hoping so. There is definitely some Apex Ultra ni-mai on the horizon. At the same time I've got this unhardened M4 blank I've been really thinking about turning into a yanagi...which could be fun...or a total nightmare, that stuff just doesn't like to straighten.
 
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