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Uguisu

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Here's a little 75mm Takeda NAS Kogatana AS with a custom handle I made out of desert ironwood burl sandwiching a core of 3000 yr old ancient bog oak with nickel silver pins brought to a satin finish. The handle shape is a modified butcher's handle. You like?

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I'm the lucky owner and all I can say is that the photos (as nice as they are!) does NOT do this handle justice!

I can't decide which I like better - how it looks or how they feels!

Every detail (the pins, the bog oak, the buffalo horn, and of course the wood!) is so perfectly selected and meticulously finished.

Thank you Dave!!!
 

Dave Martell

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I'm the lucky owner and all I can say is that the photos (as nice as they are!) does NOT do this handle justice!

I can't decide which I like better - how it looks or how they feels!

Every detail (the pins, the bog oak, the buffalo horn, and of course the wood!) is so perfectly selected and meticulously finished.

Thank you Dave!!!
This is awesome to hear, thanks Bob!
 

domrun

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Here's a little 75mm Takeda NAS Kogatana AS with a custom handle I made out of desert ironwood burl sandwiching a core of 3000 yr old ancient bog oak with nickel silver pins brought to a satin finish. The handle shape is a modified butcher's handle. You like?

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What a beauty !
a jewel
What luck has the owner!
 

spyken

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just found this. umm, yes to all. anyone done buffalo horn bolsters and snakewood?
 

Dave Martell

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just found this. umm, yes to all. anyone done buffalo horn bolsters and snakewood?
I've personally stayed away from snakewood after hearing so many fails from other makers. I like the looks of it though, just can't run the risk.
 

spyken

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any reason for the failure of snakewood Dave? it's a dense oily wood, correct? and not usually stabilized? does it feel smooth to touch or "grainy"?
 

milkbaby

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any reason for the failure of snakewood Dave? it's a dense oily wood, correct? and not usually stabilized? does it feel smooth to touch or "grainy"?
While I'm not Dave, snakewood always feels brittle to me. It is very smooth and not open grained at all. While I haven't used it for handles myself yet, one piece of advice I've been given for working it is to never let it heat up, same as when working ebony, because it'll look okay but then have a tendency to check and crack later on.

Another issue would be if you used a piece that wasn't fully dried yet. I know somebody who complained to me about buying snakewood logs because there is so much loss during the drying due to cracks.
 

Dave Martell

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I just finished up these two rehandles.

This customer supplied the (ironwood burl and black ash burl) wood and also supplied his ideas on the direction of grain orientation to be seen as well as size requirements - I think he did well on this, don't you? :)

The knives are Hinoura River Jump and Shigemitsu Ito Tamahagane

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I just finished up these two rehandles.

This customer supplied the (ironwood burl and black ash burl) wood and also supplied his ideas on the direction of grain orientation to be seen as well as size requirements - I think he did well on this, don't you? :)

The knives are Hinoura River Jump and Shigemitsu Ito Tamahagane

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FWIW I think you both killed it
 

Dave Martell

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Vintage Forgecraft

Rehandled in circassian walnut that's been made as a 3-piece sandwich construction , using G10 as the core. The style of the handle is very much like the factory original, just larger for a more full grip.

The blade was rusted, pitted, and well used. I removed the rust (yet some pitting remains to speak for it's age), thinned the bevels, rounded the spine/choil, and refinished the blade.

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playero

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I just finished up these two rehandles.

This customer supplied the (ironwood burl and black ash burl) wood and also supplied his ideas on the direction of grain orientation to be seen as well as size requirements - I think he did well on this, don't you? :)

The knives are Hinoura River Jump and Shigemitsu Ito Tamahagane

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you also did extremely well
 
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