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Dave Martell

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Attention all sharpeners - Advanced Abrasives is now selling their products online direct to the end user!

You can score the same diamond slurries & suspensions supplied by Hand_American, Ken/CKTG for a fraction of the cost.

An example of what a great deal this is take the HA 1mic diamond spray:

Sold at CKTG for $38.95 (4 oz)

Sold at Advanced Abrasives for $7.75 (8oz or 250ml)


So is this stuff any good? Well before I found what I use now I used to sell the HA diamond sprays and I feel that it was the best that I had used up until I switched so yeah it's worth checking out, especially for these prices.
 
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Dave Martell

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[h=3]Abrasive Types[/h]
  • Al2O3 (Aluminum Oxide)
    • The raw materials from which this high performance technical grade ceramic is made are readily available and reasonably priced, resulting in good value for the cost in fabricated alumina shapes.
  • cBNP (Cubic Boron Nitride Powder)
    • cBNP is the clear winner when machining ferrous materials. It is second only to diamond in hardness. cBNP has a high thermal conductivity which makes it ideal for high temperature applications.
  • Colloidal Silica (Colloidal Silica)
    • Colloidal silicas are suspensions of fine amorphous, nonporous, and typically spherical silica particles in a liquid phase.
  • MDP (Standard Grade Metal Bond)
    • MDP is the popular choice for most lapping and polishing applications. It is the optimum choice when the characteristics of MDP(N) are not required.
  • NA (Not Applicable)
  • NDP (Natural Diamond Powder)
    • The natural alternative to synthetic diamond. NDP exhibits a high surface finish while maintaining above average stock removal.
  • PDP (Polycrystalline Diamond Powder)
    • PDP is made up of nano-crystallites that give it a unique break down mechanism which allows new cutting edges to be exposed creating a self-sharpening characteristic. PDP is used primarily for lapping and polishing sapphire, ruby, metallographic samples, fiber optics and ceramics along with disk texturing, head polishing and lapping of substrates.
  • RDP (Resin Bond Diamond Powder)
    • RDP is the recommended product for machining many types of ceramic, glass and tungsten carbide. This material is ideal for all vitrified, phenolic and polyimide bond systems.
  • SiC (Silicon Carbide)
    • Black SiC abrasives are suitable for grinding cast iron, non-ferrous metals, leather, rubber, plastics, wood and mineral rocks. Refractory grains are also available to make high grade refractory products.
 

mpukas

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Thanks for passing this on Dave.

Is there a prefered/better product - slurry vs suspension vs compound? Do you apply any of these products to a substrate such as leather or balsa and let it dry?
 

Dave Martell

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Thanks for passing this on Dave.
Is there a prefered/better product - slurry vs suspension vs compound? Do you apply any of these products to a substrate such as leather or balsa and let it dry?

Slurry & suspension are pretty much the same thing for what we'd use them for but the difference is that slurry requires manual agitation (shaking) to disperse the compound throughout the carrier where suspension is permanent dispersion of the compound throughout the carrier medium. Slurry is less expensive and is used for manual applications where an operator would spray it directly on a machine's substrate while polishing whereas suspensions would be used in automatic applications that may sit still being uses.

For use on felt, leather, or balsa a spray (be it slurry or suspension) is the easiest to use because it applies an even covering on the substrate while not asking of you to get your hands dirty. A wet compound/paste can be used on smooth leather and balsa by smearing it evenly across the substrate's surface, this is messier than sprays but a lot less expensive.

Also, Keith at HA once told me about extender fluids and how you can use them to "water down" and extend the compounds making them go a lot further. This seems to be a way to make a gallon out of a few ounces of expensive compound. I've never tried it myself but it seems to be something that's done quite often so it must work.
 

GlassEye

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This pricing I am willing to pay, the compounds always seemed overly expensive from the retailers. Which of the available choices of compound would be the best for general purpose honing of kitchen knives?
 

tk59

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Cool. Which base would you recommend: water, oil or universal?
 

RobinW

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I have used AA:s stuff before (plastic injection tools) and of course i could not resist brining some home for use on the blades. Very good...

The oil base is commonly used for tool polishing as the steels are quite prone to corrosion. The oil smells a bit. Disappears immediately when washing the knife afterwards. Leather/balsa still smells a bit though (i keep mine in a ziplock so no wife issues).

Although i doubt there is much of a health difference when the blade is in use, i would probably go for the water base if given the choice. Water has to be better for humans than oil, right?
 

Dave Martell

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I'd go with water base when you can, it's cleaner to handle.
 
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Dave Martell

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This pricing I am willing to pay, the compounds always seemed overly expensive from the retailers. Which of the available choices of compound would be the best for general purpose honing of kitchen knives?

1mic anything will be what will be the best general all around size to get but for these prices you could try quite a few different sizes and compounds and still be ahead. :)
 

Dave Martell

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Here's a few I'd try if I was going to order....

*Polycrystalline Diamond Spray 0.1mic
CKTG(Ken) - $66 (2oz)
AA - $23 (8oz)


cBN Spray 0.5mic
CKTG(Ken) - $37.95 (2oz)
AA - $9.75 (8oz)


Monocrystalline Diamond Spray 1.0mic
CKTG(HA) - $38.95 (4oz)
AA - $7.75 (8oz)
 

ajhuff

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I have used AA:s stuff before (plastic injection tools) and of course i could not resist brining some home for use on the blades. Very good...

The oil base is commonly used for tool polishing as the steels are quite prone to corrosion. The oil smells a bit. Disappears immediately when washing the knife afterwards. Leather/balsa still smells a bit though (i keep mine in a ziplock so no wife issues).

Although i doubt there is much of a health difference when the blade is in use, i would probably go for the water base if given the choice. Water has to be better for humans than oil, right?
If you use oil based, just wash it off with dish soap (Dawn) and water. No biggie.

-AJ
 

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Interested in diamond spray for my custom Gyuto that will be in 52100 steel to be used for touch ups, which product would you recommend and what size would be a good option?

Was looking around the site and was totally lost in the terminology
 

ThEoRy

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Interested in diamond spray for my custom Gyuto that will be in 52100 steel to be used for touch ups, which product would you recommend and what size would be a good option?

Was looking around the site and was totally lost in the terminology
For a good start, go to suspension or slurry, choose the size micron 1, then pdp for poly diamond, choose water, then standard, then the quantity you want, then purchase away!
 

ajhuff

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I'm really shocked at those prices. Really feels too good to be true. But if they are a tried and true company, what a great deal!

-AJ
 

heirkb

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For a good start, go to suspension or slurry, choose the size micron 1, then pdp for poly diamond, choose water, then standard, then the quantity you want, then purchase away!
What would be the difference between the monocrystalline (MDP) that Dave mentioned and the polycrystalline (PDP)?

Also, on this site, 1 for abrasive size means 1 micron?
 

steeley

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:lolsign:Man the mark up is unreal .
"may the the overpricing be with you"
 

Ontravelling

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This is great, thanks! I've wanted to try this but have waited because of the prices. Now I have to try it out.
 

jgraeff

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Thanks for the info theory! Another dumb question though does it come with an applicator or divi need to get one? And does it matter what kind of spray bottle I get?
 

jgraeff

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also considering the slurry and suspension are pretty much the same and same price wouldn't it be better to just get the suspension? or am i missing something? sorry guys i have no clue about this stuff, but i have been using marko's strop lately with diamond spray on it and man it makes a huge difference!
 

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so are these water based extenders anymore than water and some surfactant? (soap)
 

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** Newbie Alert **

I'm probably going to irritate some users for this post, so kindly disregard if that's the case.

I'm a rookie user who wants to use these products if it means my sharpening will improve.

Question: What do these products do and is there a FAQ that would best describe them? Pouring over expert-level posts and trying to make sense of them is like walking into a room of lawyers and trying to understand the "legalese" being passed around.

I do have a handheld strop (w/ handle and leather on both sides) and I'll be looking to use this on a variety of knives ranging from AEB-L to 52100 (and other crappier metals).

Would I spray these chemicals on the leather? My Shapton stone? The blade? Help.
 

Rottman

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You should spray it on the leather, let it dry, then strop.
 

ThEoRy

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You charge the strop with the spray, wait for it to dry, then strop your knife as usual. Pull your knife backwards in an edge trailing motion from heel to toe at an angle slightly higher than your sharpening angle. Strop both sides equally.
 

ThEoRy

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What would be the difference between the monocrystalline (MDP) that Dave mentioned and the polycrystalline (PDP)?

Also, on this site, 1 for abrasive size means 1 micron?
Well, basically, the poly has more cutting surfaces and leaves a toothier edge preferred on most kitchen knives.
 

RobinW

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One thing to keep in mind is that AA on for example 1micron puts a span behind it like 0-2. Meaning you will have some diamonds up to 2 micron in the mix.

Now obviously most all slurries would have that (a span, the exact span may differ on the quality of grading), but all may not say so.
Therefore if one is anal about having a 1 micron scratch pattern on the knife, you may want to order a finer slurry.
 

Dave Martell

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also considering the slurry and suspension are pretty much the same and same price wouldn't it be better to just get the suspension? or am i missing something?

I'd say yes, if the price is pretty much the same go for the suspension as you're assured a more even particle distribution.

The attached image shows suspension on the left side vs slurry on the right.

suspension versus slurry.jpg
 
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