Grinding wide bevels - how to?

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Kippington

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I have some pictures of the finished product here:
https://www.instagram.com/p/B1duFLdjyLf/
You can clearly see the distal taper in one of the pictures.

I might have to make some more of these in the future, they have a cool look to them.
They don't perform all too well though, if I'm honest...
 
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Matus

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It looks nice. The bevel is pretty wide though - what kind of grind does it have?
 

Kippington

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Thanks!
Double concave, large radius. Pretty much covered it earlier in this thread.
 

Kippington

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And you’re telling me this now?!? [emoji23]
I just realised that you're following this thread, you might think the one you bought has distal taper. It doesn't really have any, it's short enough that the tip needed more weight to keep the balance at the pinch.
 

Carl Kotte

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I just realised that you're following this thread, you might think the one you bought has distal taper. It doesn't really have any, it's short enough that the tip needed more weight to keep the balance at the pinch.
Sorry, my remark was meant as a joke! I trust you. [emoji16]
 

Carl Kotte

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Cool beans. :D
Internetz and the irony: hard thing (both to get across and to receive/understand)! I try to cut down on it, but it is hard to resist sometimes.
Maybe there should be a ’joke button’ that could be pushed by the sender here on KKF to avoid uncertainties.[emoji848]

Wrt grinding wide bevels: Keep up the good work everyone! And, a question: can you grind them on a meat grinder too? [emoji6]
 

da_mich*

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My jig seems to work, but there are all kinds of little details I'd need to explain to be able to tell you how it works in full. Just know that my explanation a few posts above has practical value.
This blade is 240x52mm (it will get smaller), has distal taper, and is beveled on both sides:

It looks very nice. It´s a good work. How big is your grinding wheel?
 

Matus

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I did manage to get a decent wide be el grind on the first blade, but it is still far from finished. I am now working on a second knife (a little nakiri for my daughter) which is also going to have a wide bevel (if it works out), although a very narrow one.
 

Kippington

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rob

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Interesting question Kipp.

I have a bit of a love/hate relationship with Takeda's. I love the steel and heat treat, and for some reason i can consistently get all my Takeda knives insanely sharp very easily. But some of them have a weird cross sectional geometry and feel extra thick behind the edge.

Not being an expert by any stretch It's almost like they forget to (or more likely deliberately for food release?) hammer or grind behind the edge. As to your question i wouldn't call them a wide bevel, more of a Scandi grind or 0 degree bevel. Like you i consider a wide bevels to be much taller.
 

Matus

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I have decided to tall all double bevel knives with a shinogi 'wide bevel' knives. And - I am tending towards the opinion, that the more narrow this wide bevel is (yes, there would be a bottom limit and the shown Takeda would be about there), the more I like how the grind can perform when done well.
 

suntravel

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Can a radius platen ever run a belt cool enough for zero-grinding on belt?
Yes when it is water cooled....

... must find time to build a chilled platen :)

420mm wheel ist sometimes a bit to small;)

Regards

Uwe
 

milkbaby

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I have decided to tall all double bevel knives with a shinogi 'wide bevel' knives.
I'm tending towards the same feeling as Matus above. I guess with respect to the specific Raquin example, some people wouldn't necessarily call it that due to the "soft" shinogi resulting from leaving as forged above the grind.

And actually my post was more about the general geometry suggested by the choil pic. Instead of having parallel flats above the shinogi, to have them angled toward each other to decrease the resistance on and/or tendency to crack certain items that are taller than the wide bevel grind.
 
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