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Bought Guided Sharpening System

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Hi all! I am interested in getting a guided sharpening system for precise angle control and flat bevels. I was going to buy something new like a hapstone or TSProf, but given that I'm in no rush I figured I would see if I could save some money and get something used. If you have a guided sharpening system you want to unload or know of one please shoot me a pm!
 
I managed to pick up a used TSProf off of eBay for a great deal! It's an excellent system that seems very well-built.
IMG_3175.JPG
 
It looks complicated but I guess once you learn it then it will be easier. I use a Worksharp Ken Onion which is pretty easy. There are a couple of things to learn but it is still easy.
 
I just purchased the economical SharpWorx Master and am very pleased with the results. It enables selectable edge angles consistently held for use with whetstones of any grit. I am no “master sharpener” but I got fantastic results.

My 3000/8000 grit stone also fits in the whetstone tray, so that’s nice for finishing and polishing the edges after the shaping and sharpening with the 400/1000 grit whetstone provided.

I started by sharpening my two older Wusthof Santoku 5” & 7”. On the 400 stone I reshaped the factory edges from 14 to 10 degrees on both sides, which is the new factory standard for the Wusthof Asian knives. Then I sharpened on the 1000 and finished and polished on the finer stones. After working every edge/grit there was a clear even burr. I gained much confidence that this is the most controlled and effective sharpening system I’ve ever used.

So then I worked on my single-bevel Deba that had some chips in the edge. I was able to work the edge repair process evenly and consistently on the 400 stone, keeping the 10 degree bevel consistent while eliminating the chips and creating the edge shape that I wanted. Then sharpening and finishing at 10 degrees on the 1000 and 3000 stones. Of course as I raised a burr I would work the concave “ura” side laid flat on the 3000 stone. Magnificent result to a challenging requirement!

Tonight I had the confidence to sharpen my Suisin Gyotu 180mm 70/30, to 8 degrees on the port side and 18 degrees on the starboard. Perfect result on this extremely hard carbon steel blade.

Inspecting the edges with my loupe showed surprising consistency.

I recommend the SharpWorx system with adjustable edge angle.
 

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I just purchased the economical SharpWorx Master and am very pleased with the results. It enables selectable edge angles consistently held for use with whetstones of any grit. I am no “master sharpener” but I got fantastic results.

My 3000/8000 grit stone also fits in the whetstone tray, so that’s nice for finishing and polishing the edges after the shaping and sharpening with the 400/1000 grit whetstone provided.

I started by sharpening my two older Wusthof Santoku 5” & 7”. On the 400 stone I reshaped the factory edges from 14 to 10 degrees on both sides, which is the new factory standard for the Wusthof Asian knives. Then I sharpened on the 1000 and finished and polished on the finer stones. After working every edge/grit there was a clear even burr. I gained much confidence that this is the most controlled and effective sharpening system I’ve ever used.

So then I worked on my single-bevel Deba that had some chips in the edge. I was able to work the edge repair process evenly and consistently on the 400 stone, keeping the 10 degree bevel consistent while eliminating the chips and creating the edge shape that I wanted. Then sharpening and finishing at 10 degrees on the 1000 and 3000 stones. Of course as I raised a burr I would work the concave “ura” side laid flat on the 3000 stone. Magnificent result to a challenging requirement!

Tonight I had the confidence to sharpen my Suisin Gyotu 180mm 70/30, to 8 degrees on the port side and 18 degrees on the starboard. Perfect result on this extremely hard carbon steel blade.

Inspecting the edges with my loupe showed surprising consistency.

I recommend the SharpWorx system with adjustable edge angle.
Curious what the deba looks like. I understood the angle of the bevel changes continuously heel to tip.
 
Last edited:
Curious what the deba looks like. I understood the angle of the bevel changes continuously heel to tip.
The “clam-shaped blade” of the Deba with sharper bevel towards the tip and wider bevel towards the heel is done with the SharpWorx by setting the guide rod at a non-horizontal angle. If the guide rod is set at a raised angle then the bevel angle of the blade edge to the stone increases continuously and evenly as the blade is pushed across the whetstone, e.g. beginning at the tip with sharper angle and finishing at the heel with wider angle (for cutting through fish bones).
 
I have tried a bunch (Wicked Edge, Edge Pro, Hapstone) and my favorite by a long shot is the TSPROF Blitz 360.

While it is big enough to use on smaller kitchen knives, I really only use it for my folders. Those are the ones I am most picky about, and prefer to sharpen the kitchen knives by hand.

The biggest thing I like about it is that it centers perfectly when the knife is flipped. There is no play or variance like you see in the systems that have a rotating cylinder. The blitz 360 just locks into place by flipping the clamp mechanism 180 degrees.

Then there’s the fact that you can use all the edge pro stones and this thing folds up into basically nothing when you are done.

It’s a great system, but there are a lot of nice systems out there. Just figure out what you are going to be sharpening most, and what your budget is, then buy accordingly.

Good luck!
 
The “clam-shaped blade” of the Deba with sharper bevel towards the tip and wider bevel towards the heel is done with the SharpWorx by setting the guide rod at a non-horizontal angle. If the guide rod is set at a raised angle then the bevel angle of the blade edge to the stone increases continuously and evenly as the blade is pushed across the whetstone, e.g. beginning at the tip with sharper angle and finishing at the heel with wider angle (for cutting through fish bones).
Clam shaped as in hamaguri? I kinda was assuming beta togi? Or are you making a microbevel?

I'd assume the tapering not to be linear (with its implications in the bevel angle) or are you changing the grind?

Curious to see a pic of the results.
 
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