Gustav Emil Ern

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Gustav Emil Ern was the inventor of the so called schleifhexe.... The double Hollow Ground Machine that made the thin hollowed straight razors possible.
It was a "Schleifkotte" near Solingen. They did not forge but the razors they made are within the best but still undervelmed....

Crown and Sword, ERN, and a few more Labels where produced by him and his sons/relatives.

SirCutALot
 
I’m appreciating the posting of more and more Gustav Emil Ern company history on here. So glad my wee knife has garnered such interesting posts
 
My wife inherited a Gustav Emil Ern from her mother. My research indicated that it was THE premier brand pre-WWII. Basically, it was the last one made traditionally and was considered one of the best brands in Germany prior to Wusthof and Henkels dominating the market.
I have had a G E filleting knife for around 30 years now, super thin, flexible, razor sharp. Not sure how much the quality has changed since I bought it - my old man bought Sabatier knives in Switzerland nearly 50 years ago - those for sure are totally different nowadays.
 
https://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/threads/polishing-out-the-ripples.58778/Following suggestions from Henckrl7302 and TB_London I worked out the rippling with 400/600 wet and dry. I made a little sanding block from child’s wooden set, added a piece of foam to help it contour and used Ballistol as a lubricant. ( I couldn’t find the WD40). I then finished with some fine microfinishing film. The result is a misty finish, that’s fine, the ripples are gone. I do have some scratches but I’ll live with that, the steel will soon age.
 

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This is really very interesting information.
So far I only knew the "newer" stainless knives from Gustav Emil Ern and they didn't impress me.
But with this information, the older knives become interesting. Thanks for sharing, I always like to learn something new.
IMO the "premier brand" is subjective. Ern is very collectible these days, sure, but most old Western knives from this particular era (pre-stainless) sell for some pretty good money. And all at least look to be of equal quality.
 
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I have had a G E filleting knife for around 30 years now, super thin, flexible, razor sharp. Not sure how much the quality has changed since I bought it - my old man bought Sabatier knives in Switzerland nearly 50 years ago - those for sure are totally different nowadays.
Sabatier.jpg


I have an old high carbon steel Sabatier that was the first knife I ever bought myself....I still love and use it. Pic above....
 
One thing g that is really important to know about my GEE is the geometry. The left face is more or less flat and the right face is distinctly convex. I wish I’d had a proper look before I thinned it.
 

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One thing g that is really important to know about my GEE is the geometry. The left face is more or less flat and the right face is distinctly convex. I wish I’d had a proper look before I thinned it.
That's the concept you may find with all vintage European knives since Jean Auguste Sabatier in the 1880s and that has been copied by makers in Thiers, Solingen and Sheffield.
The idea is making food release easier with the convex side, and making thin slices somewhat easier as well with the flatter side. The left side is basically flat but ends with a curve to join the the edge, while the right side forms one continuous arc.
With poorly maintained European knives the curve on the left side may have gone.
When the Japanese started to make Western, double-bevelled knives they took the Sab as an example, increased the effect and optimised it for right-handers by off-centering the edge to the left and skipping or reducing the final curve on the left side. They could do so because left-handers were ignored in their culture.
For now, you may balance the friction on both sides. If the blade steers clockwise, thin a bit more on the right side, and vice versa.
 
That's the concept you may find with all vintage European knives since Jean Auguste Sabatier in the 1880s and that has been copied by makers in Thiers, Solingen and Sheffield.
The idea is making food release easier with the convex side, and making thin slices somewhat easier as well with the flatter side. The left side is basically flat but ends with a curve to join the the edge, while the right side forms one continuous arc.
With poorly maintained European knives the curve on the left side may have gone.
When the Japanese started to make Western, double-bevelled knives they took the Sab as an example, increased the effect and optimised it for right-handers by off-centering the edge to the left and skipping or reducing the final curve on the left side. They could do so because left-handers were ignored in their culture.
For now, you may balance the friction on both sides. If the blade steers clockwise, thin a bit more on the right side, and vice versa.
I hadn’t noticed this as emphatically as on this knife. I’m going to have to have a closer look at the other old European knives I have.
 
That's the concept you may find with all vintage European knives since Jean Auguste Sabatier in the 1880s and that has been copied by makers in Thiers, Solingen and Sheffield.
The idea is making food release easier with the convex side, and making thin slices somewhat easier as well with the flatter side. The left side is basically flat but ends with a curve to join the the edge, while the right side forms one continuous arc.
With poorly maintained European knives the curve on the left side may have gone.
When the Japanese started to make Western, double-bevelled knives they took the Sab as an example, increased the effect and optimised it for right-handers by off-centering the edge to the left and skipping or reducing the final curve on the left side. They could do so because left-handers were ignored in their culture.
For now, you may balance the friction on both sides. If the blade steers clockwise, thin a bit more on the right side, and vice versa.
What a revelation. I hadn’t noticed this before. Went and checked my knives and sure enough, my 102-10 and one of my sabs are ground this way. Fascinating
 
That's the concept you may find with all vintage European knives since Jean Auguste Sabatier in the 1880s and that has been copied by makers in Thiers, Solingen and Sheffield.
The idea is making food release easier with the convex side, and making thin slices somewhat easier as well with the flatter side. The left side is basically flat but ends with a curve to join the the edge, while the right side forms one continuous arc.
With poorly maintained European knives the curve on the left side may have gone.
When the Japanese started to make Western, double-bevelled knives they took the Sab as an example, increased the effect and optimised it for right-handers by off-centering the edge to the left and skipping or reducing the final curve on the left side. They could do so because left-handers were ignored in their culture.
For now, you may balance the friction on both sides. If the blade steers clockwise, thin a bit more on the right side, and vice versa.
A Basic Explanation of Asymmetry explained here with nice pictures/drawings
 
A Basic Explanation of Asymmetry explained here with nice pictures/drawings
Absolutely. Remember though, European knives have their edge well-centered, at least OOTB. Not so with Japanese ones. That said, even with Europeans you may move the edge little by little and slightly improve performance, if you're right-handed at least. I don't sharpen my vintage Sabs very differently from my Misonos. I want the right bevel to continue the face's arc, while for the left side, I do what is necessary to make steering acceptable to me, which is highly individual. Of course, this will work well only if you're the only user.
 
I have an Elephant Sabatier but this is ground 50:50 as far as I can tell.
 
I have an Elephant Sabatier but this is ground 50:50 as far as I can tell.
Sure. The edge is well-centered, as European makers take into account left-handers, which Japanese makers politely ignore. You will notice though that both sides aren't ground identically. The right one is convexed over the entire width, the left one only on the last part close to the edge.
 
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