gyuto bevels problem

[83kamaleon]

Hi guys,this is my very first post,i just started knife making few months ago,and i've been reading a lot on the forum since then.I've been making a few japanese style knives and i always have the same problems.I'll try to explain with some pictures,i hope u can help me.
i grind freehand and i discovered that my left hand is more precise than my right one (i'm not lefty) so i'm quite satisfied with one side of the knife (first picture) not so much with the other (second picture).At this point i usually mess up trying to correct the bevel line on the belt grinder (by the way it's a cheap 1/2 hp belt grinder) and end up losing the nice clear bevel line.So my questions are:
1)is there a way to fix that line by hand?
2)is there a way not to lose that nice bevel line when i polish the blade from all the scratches?cause another problem i'm finding is that when i polish the blade the bevel ends up blendin with the flat part and it's no more visible
I hope i explained myself well,english is not my first language,thanks all for the help

 

[milkbaby]

On the grinder it's practice... the more you do it, the better you get at it.

If you want to sand by hand, wrap the sandpaper abrasive around a hard backer like a block of wood. Clamp the knife and use the block backed sandpaper to sand carefully. Also, your stock needs to be flat on both sides to begin with. If it is not flat, then you will not maintain a consistent shinogi but it will be wavy depending on the high and low spots. Measure the flatness against a decent reference. A lot of steel you buy may not be flat to begin with, and be careful as it can warp as you grind it as well.

See how the guy has the sandpaper wrapped around a hard surface below:

 

[83kamaleon]

On the grinder it's practice... the more you do it, the better you get at it.

If you want to sand by hand, wrap the sandpaper abrasive around a hard backer like a block of wood. Clamp the knife and use the block backed sandpaper to sand carefully. Also, your stock needs to be flat on both sides to begin with. If it is not flat, then you will not maintain a consistent shinogi but it will be wavy depending on the high and low spots. Measure the flatness against a decent reference. A lot of steel you buy may not be flat to begin with, and be careful as it can warp as you grind it as well.

See how the guy has the sandpaper wrapped around a hard surface below:

Actually the blank wasn't flat,I tried fixing it and it seemed quite flat before I started I didn't think it could warp while I was working.the method I use to remove scratches is the one u posted but the shinogi line tends to disappear, I'll try to be more careful this time

 

[Kippington]

Yeah, its a pain the ass when a flat blade warps during grinding. I tend to get overzealous with a hammer when that happens, often flat out busting the knife in half... :O