- Mar 1, 2011
- Reaction score
How much do you guys leave at the edge when you go to a hand-rubbed finish? Target edge thickness is <.005 when done.
I am very curious why you would hand sand that much.I would got to 1k or 600 on the grinder then 1k by hand.I guess, I should have phrased my question differently. How much metal does a hand finishing remove if you start from 220 and go all the way to 600-1000 grit finish?
My receipt from tru grit is saying a 30x gator is 600 grit,I guess I better look in to this.30 micron is about 320 grit equivalent. 5 micron is about 1200 equivalent, so yes, you can jump to 1000 grit from 5 micron.
In the past, heel to tip would always result in a shiny edge on the heel, so I am going to try tip to heel this time.
yep mine to. they also tell me that x5 is 3000 grit. I finish my knives to x5 or x4 and then drop back to 1000 grit to hand finish. my knives are usually sharp enough to shave with when the come off the grinder. one way to keep from cutting yourself is to use a board that is just wider than your knife for backing then keep the edge just behind the board.My receipt from tru grit is saying a 30x gator is 600 grit,I guess I better look in to this.
When looked in to it I found three answers too.
If you look at micromesh numbers, they see to be very similar to those TruGrit provides with finishing belts. Perhaps that might be the answer, though Micromesh MX (for finishing steel) is more along the line of typical sandpaper grits.When looked in to it I found three answers too.
one nice thing about the gator belts is they dont often leave "big scratches" more often the not you are seeing a scratch for a lower grit belt that you jsut didnt get out before handsanding
Ok non knife maker input here, but I have polished a lot of stuff so maybe I can help?
I always here makers ( Butch for one) refer to a 800 belt finish. I'm guessing this means just that, 800 belt no hand sanding? So I would think 800 you should be able to do by belt?
Now for paper, start one step back from the last belt (600). I read Del post once about using wd40 on a stack of newspaper, I tried it and liked it. I stepped up to a firm rubber mat/pad.
Side note: I don't know what this rubber stuff is or what it's meantime for but it's red, about 1/4" thick. Looks like the same stuff them rubber sanding blocks are made from? I bought the pad from a leather craft shop. Its used to protect the edges of punching tools as you hammer threw leather. it's not cheep, but my thinking is that its made for other things and the leather shops just mark it up a lot? so if anyone knows what this stuff is and a place to get it cheep I'd love to know.
Any way I also tried honing/ cutting oil and it works better then wd40. I move back and forth then step up a grade (800) I do a bunch of swirly moves and then go back down to 600 grit and do more swirly moves. Now back up to 800 for the back and forth movement. I find that by stepping back each time that it gets the job done faster. I think it has more to do with just being able to see the left over scratches from the grit befor more easily? Any way I do this all the way up to at lest 2000 grit paper. I guess you would have to go to micro mesh to get more of a polish, but a machine buffer comes to mind?
I like klingspor silicon carbide paper that I get from here http://www.woodworkingshop.com/category.aspx?id=23&f5=SILICON+CARBIDE+WET/DRY&f1=9+++X+11
Find them cheaper then trugrit . I like the klingspor more then the 3M and its cheaper so thats a plus. That sad i like Hermes abrasives (belts I have used) does anyone know if they ( Hermes) makes sheets or roles and who sales them?
Hop that helped?