If ever you want to try hand sharpening again, start with a thin, cheap, carbon steel one. Thin, because with neglected knives often there's so much thickening behind the edge that a large amount of steel has to got abraded before you even can think about putting an edge on it. Carbon steel, because it is little abrasion resistant. It allows you to jump immediately to the basics of sharpening: raising a burr, chasing it, getting rid of it. Cheap stainless often are highly abrasion resistant and difficult to deburr because of large or even clustering chromium carbides. In Europe, I would think about a simple breakfast knife, a so called Buckels, by Robert Herder, Solingen.
Very helpful with hand sharpening is the use of a sharpie and a loupe, say 8, 10 or 12x. It allows to verify whether the very edge got reached, and you're not just accumulating debris on top of the old edge, while thinning a bit behind it. Or overlooking a microbevel — don't ask how I know.
Hand sharpening isn't that hard. Before WW2, most men sharpened their own razor. Farmers used to sharpen their scythe.
The big advantage of hand sharpening over any system is in allowing good thinning behind the edge, in order to restore a blade's geometry while sharpening. I must admit I've seen very nice edges made with jig systems. But the intended geometry of the blade was lost. Great edges, poor cutters.