Help judging if a Munetoshi is worth returning

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Bought a Munetoshi 240 Gyuto early this year. Agree with everything said here. I am pleased all around, except in a very humid environment it will show rust in a matter of hours. But that is not unique to Munetoshi and something I can work around.
 
One tip. The Munetoshi handles need some TLC - they seem completely untreated and can use some fat. I have been using coconut oil for a few weeks now and it works very well. The handle on my petty has turned into a very nice brown.
 
One tip. The Munetoshi handles need some TLC - they seem completely untreated and can use some fat. I have been using coconut oil for a few weeks now and it works very well. The handle on my petty has turned into a very nice brown.
sorry what's TLC ?
 
My other carbon knives didn't rust so far. Hopefully this one is no different. Considering that England is a "tiny bit" humid I'm pretty happy. I'll keep the handle as it his for now but I reckon this is the right knife for a handle swap. I don't want to do it myself tho. Down the line I'm gonna have to find someone that sell them and can install it. Preferably Europe..
 
I assume that's a pretty cheap handle, maybe only costs $5-10. Not much to lose other than a little bit on sandpaper and some time, along with some mineral oil or board butter.
Replacing a handle isn't that hard. You can cut piece of glue stick from a glue gun and put in the hole, heat the tang, insert. Put in 180 degree (F) oven for 20-30 minutes if you need to redo it. Repeat as many times as needed. Once it's good, give a final seal around the handle using beeswax.
 
Installing a handle really is very straightforward. I've only done it once (a handle from PCPken on a Prendergast) and had no trouble at all. I did use some hardcore epoxy though, which I wouldn't do again. Both because if I'd ****ed it then I'd have been stuck, and also because there's no way it's ever coming off.
 
Bought a Munetoshi Nakiri.
Fit and finish similar to yours.
Out of the box it was quite bad, it did not cut well at all. It wasnt super sharp and worse it wedged a lot, so I was quite disappointed with it at first, but it had been out of stock for ages, and out of stock again as soon as I bought the one there was, so I decided to fix it rather than return it. It took many hours of grinding and thinning, but in the end it was all worth it, steel and heat treatment is superb. It is the knife I use the most now, and all the work put into it makes it something special for me.

The uneven grinding is due to the knife sides being uneven. A "hill" on one side and a "vally" on the other. The edge is perfectly strait :)

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Bought a Munetoshi Nakiri.
Fit and finish similar to yours.
Out of the box it was quite bad, it did not cut well at all. It wasnt super sharp and worse it wedged a lot, so I was quite disappointed with it at first, but it had been out of stock for ages, and out of stock again as soon as I bought the one there was, so I decided to fix it rather than return it. It took many hours of grinding and thinning, but in the end it was all worth it, steel and heat treatment is superb. It is the knife I use the most now, and all the work put into it makes it something special for me.

The uneven grinding is due to the knife sides being uneven. A "hill" on one side and a "vally" on the other. The edge is perfectly strait :)

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Nice work mate this must cut very nicely !
I plan to do a good thinning on my mune 240 gyuto too, I find it wedges a bit too much to my liking.
As soon as I buy a good coarse stone. I don't like working on my atoma 400 and it probably will take too much time on naniwa pro 800..
What stone did you use for the big job ?

Would you mind posting a good choil shot ?
 
Thanks.
It cuts with ease now, no wedge at all.
I started with a 300 grid stone, but switched to Atoma 140. The Atoma is still in fine condition, I havnt noticed any wear on it.
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The first shot is super weird the blade looks bent but the third one looks good.
well done and thanks for posting
 
The pictures are accurate. The knife is slightly bend at the spine, but strait at the edge. The bend spine does not affect performance as far as I can tell, but Im a home chef not an expert.
 
How far up does it start to bend?
As soon as the edge is bent you will have to fix it or sharpening is going to be impossible (or at least hell on the hollow part).
 
It is hard to tell as the uneven sides makes it look worse than it is. The bottom half of the knife is 100% strait, sharpening is no problem.
 
Bought a Munetoshi Nakiri.
Fit and finish similar to yours.
Out of the box it was quite bad, it did not cut well at all. It wasnt super sharp and worse it wedged a lot, so I was quite disappointed with it at first, but it had been out of stock for ages, and out of stock again as soon as I bought the one there was, so I decided to fix it rather than return it. It took many hours of grinding and thinning, but in the end it was all worth it, steel and heat treatment is superb. It is the knife I use the most now, and all the work put into it makes it something special for me.

The uneven grinding is due to the knife sides being uneven. A "hill" on one side and a "vally" on the other. The edge is perfectly strait :)

View attachment 110768View attachment 110769
It’s Mt Fuji san mai! 🥰🥰🥰
 
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