Help me improve my knife stand 3d print

[Ricedeath]

Hi all,

yesterday I received my Krichbaum Gyuto and I just enjoyed it so much, that I decided to quickly throw together a little 3d printed knifestand.
Overall I really like the idea knife having their own little display stand and also it is a great way to prototype different designs, in case I ever want to maybe rebuild it out of wood.

As such I want to iterate on my previous draft and improve on the design and was hoping, that you guys could also give me some pointers/suggestions to consider for my next iteration.
Maybe you have got some pointers or resources to existing ones, that work great design wise.

I noticed a few things for starters:

• The middle section is either printed too thin or it should get some extra support legs, as currently it looks as if it was hanging downwards
• Not sure about the location of the heel support pillar, with the handle being completly unsupported, the handle being one big lever, almost asking for accidents to happen (afraid, the knife stand might end up far too chunky, if I went whole lenght?)
• Inconvenience when putting the knife back on the stand due to tight tolerances back pillar slot 4mm and front pillar 1.3mm (thought it might look better as it will sit straight and not wobble around), cant think of a solution for this one, since it should be a tight fit on the one hand but also convenient to put back, getting it into those small slots can be finnicky

 

[esoo]

It looks good. The only think I would do is have the stand extend past the tip.

 

[Ricedeath]

Always helps, to have more than one pair of eyes looking over, because I did not see that one.
Will be taking this into account for the next one.

Thanks! Helps me save some material and produce less waste!

 

[simona]

Nice. Could you make it so the edge is suspended and in view? Floating. Raise the pillars a little?

• Inconvenience when putting the knife back on the stand due to tight tolerances back pillar slot 4mm and front pillar 1.3mm (thought it might look better as it will sit straight and not wobble around), cant think of a solution for this one, since it should be a tight fit on the one hand but also convenient to put back, getting it into those small slots can be finnicky

Could you not put a small curved lip leaning outwards, on each side of the tight-tolerance slots - sorry, cannot draw it - to 'guide' the blade in? Sure you get what I mean.

 

[simona]

• The middle section is either printed too thin or it should get some extra support legs, as currently it looks as if it was hanging downwards.

https://www.google.com/search?clien...AIHaefDAYQtKgLegQIEhAB&biw=1352&bih=740&dpr=2

 

[spaceconvoy]

Hi all,

yesterday I received my Krichbaum Gyuto and I just enjoyed it so much, that I decided to quickly throw together a little 3d printed knifestand.
Overall I really like the idea knife having their own little display stand and also it is a great way to prototype different designs, in case I ever want to maybe rebuild it out of wood.

As such I want to iterate on my previous draft and improve on the design and was hoping, that you guys could also give me some pointers/suggestions to consider for my next iteration.
Maybe you have got some pointers or resources to existing ones, that work great design wise.

I noticed a few things for starters:

• The middle section is either printed too thin or it should get some extra support legs, as currently it looks as if it was hanging downwards
• Not sure about the location of the heel support pillar, with the handle being completly unsupported, the handle being one big lever, almost asking for accidents to happen (afraid, the knife stand might end up far too chunky, if I went whole lenght?)
• Inconvenience when putting the knife back on the stand due to tight tolerances back pillar slot 4mm and front pillar 1.3mm (thought it might look better as it will sit straight and not wobble around), cant think of a solution for this one, since it should be a tight fit on the one hand but also convenient to put back, getting it into those small slots can be finnicky

View attachment 336142
View attachment 336147View attachment 336148View attachment 336150

yes the midsection is too thin to support the weight of the knife. at minimum you would have to deepen the beams running lengthwise, and ideally give them a different shape. the shape you've chosen for aesthetics is particularly bad structurally, as the center of the beam is subject to the most bending

personally i would get rid of the legs altogether. they seem a bit small and delicate, and with four points of support would need a perfectly flat surface to avoid wobble. and if you're concerned about material waste, the legs are responsible for most of the plastic required by this design, not only the thickness/beam depth of the base but also the print support structure. what about gluing the stand to a nice block of wood? i feel it would have a nice aesthetic impact and greatly improve stability with the added weight

for the slots, i would make the neck slot deeper, giving it primary responsibility for maintaining the blade alignment. deepening this slot would also allow you to reduce the tolerance a bit, say to 4.2mm, making the insertion and removal easier while still keeping the blade straight and aligned. then you can make the tip slot a simple v, so the tip naturally slots into position without all the finickiness. all in all something like this:

 

[Ricedeath]

Nice. Could you make it so the edge is suspended and in view? Floating. Raise the pillars a little?

• Inconvenience when putting the knife back on the stand due to tight tolerances back pillar slot 4mm and front pillar 1.3mm (thought it might look better as it will sit straight and not wobble around), cant think of a solution for this one, since it should be a tight fit on the one hand but also convenient to put back, getting it into those small slots can be finnicky

Could you not put a small curved lip leaning outwards, on each side of the tight-tolerance slots - sorry, cannot draw it - to 'guide' the blade in? Sure you get what I mean.

I had initially planned to do so, but was afraid that the front support support pillar might look too chonky. But going for slightly higher pillars as suggested just makes sense, especially considering simon had done that beautiful stone finish on the edge. Also kinda botheres me that the heel is obstructed by the back pillar.

Good idea with the lips, your suggestion tipped me into the right direction. Initially I was also thinking of just replacing the U shaped slot with a V Shape, but that would introduce mor wobble, I could just keep the U and add some V slanted Lips to both sides. Might draw this out, to see how it might look like.

yes the midsection is too thin to support the weight of the knife. at minimum you would have to deepen the beams running lengthwise, and ideally give them a different shape. the shape you've chosen for aesthetics is particularly bad structurally, as the center of the beam is subject to the most bending

That's a good point, I think for starters I will add strenghtening beams underneath, did not do any at all before.

personally i would get rid of the legs altogether. they seem a bit small and delicate, and with four points of support would need a perfectly flat surface to avoid wobble. and if you're concerned about material waste, the legs are responsible for most of the plastic required by this design, not only the thickness/beam depth of the base but also the print support structure. what about gluing the stand to a nice block of wood? i feel it would have a nice aesthetic impact and greatly improve stability with the added weight

I was thinking legs, due to moisture concerns, since the stand will be sitting in the kitchen. With 3d prints depending on material are not the optimal material to keep in wet conditions. Was just thinking, with legs it is much easier to spot any accidental water spills as opposed to completly flat, where it might just seep underneath and I will not see it.

Cool idea with the wooden block, did not think to use it that way. I was considering to make it out of wood at some point, if I liked the design and only do the necessary, difficult to make parts out of 3d print. Will keep this one!

Also thanks for taking your time on the illustration. I was thinking of making the hollowed out section thinner, so that there would be less wobble. But the V slot at the bottom makes more sense. I think thinning the hollow section would just make it look chunkier.

 

[Matt Jacobs]

I would love to see you post these on Thingverse or similar so I can steel them!!!! I have been trying some edge guards recently but they need some tweeking before I update and publish.

 

[Ricedeath]

Sure thing, it will take some time before publishing it though. I would probably also likely have to make it parametric or something, so people could adapt it to their knives I guess? Overall I think a normal knife block or magnetic strip would be more convenient. Really like the displaying aspect of stands like these though.

Was just kind of suprised to see, that there have not been that many knife stand 3d prints publicly available. Maybe also for the same reason I am doing mine, wanted one that fits this exact knife perfectly. While also being kind of a lazy approach to not having to do it out of wood, until I actually have the time or money lol.

 

[aporigine]

Imo a few longitudinal stiffening ribs on the underside would keep the look and improve performance.

 

[WildBoar]

yes the midsection is too thin to support the weight of the knife. at minimum you would have to deepen the beams running lengthwise, and ideally give them a different shape. the shape you've chosen for aesthetics is particularly bad structurally, as the center of the beam is subject to the most bending

View attachment 336196
personally i would get rid of the legs altogether. they seem a bit small and delicate, and with four points of support would need a perfectly flat surface to avoid wobble. and if you're concerned about material waste, the legs are responsible for most of the plastic required by this design, not only the thickness/beam depth of the base but also the print support structure. what about gluing the stand to a nice block of wood? i feel it would have a nice aesthetic impact and greatly improve stability with the added weight

for the slots, i would make the neck slot deeper, giving it primary responsibility for maintaining the blade alignment. deepening this slot would also allow you to reduce the tolerance a bit, say to 4.2mm, making the insertion and removal easier while still keeping the blade straight and aligned. then you can make the tip slot a simple v, so the tip naturally slots into position without all the finickiness. all in all something like this:

View attachment 336197

???? The load is applied to a point at each end -- it is not uniformly distributed. And since you are assuming moment connections at each end, the maximum bending moment at midspan may not be much different than the end moments.

 

[Ricedeath]

I mean the picture quality ain't the best. To clarify, yes the load is applied to the pillars and the knife is not touching the base anywhere.

The base part was just a little too thin for 3mm, thought the outer decorative edges would be enough to stiffen up. Extra strengthening ribs are something ima definitely include for a little more rigidity. I will rarely be moving it, but should also feel better to the touch with more rigidity.

 

[aporigine]

I mean the picture quality ain't the best. To clarify, yes the load is applied to the pillars and the knife is not touching the base anywhere.

The base part was just a little too thin for 3mm, thought the outer decorative edges would be enough to stiffen up. Extra strengthening ribs are something ima definitely include for a little more rigidity. I will rarely be moving it, but should also feel better to the touch with more rigidity.

If you kick out the handle side of the base an inch or two, it won’t be nearly as tippy for a knife that puts most of its weight on the upright there.

 

[Ricedeath]

True, most weight is somewhere around the handle pillar. Though it seems it is inward enough still, I slowly tipped the knife handle until the end of the handle touched the table while pivoting off the handle pillar, the base itself did not tip.

My concern was more the knife itself somehow tipping out of the stand when accidentally shoving it by the end of the handle. Why I was thinking of maybe moving the support pillar to the handle side. But I think I like it thise way better. I think it is a rather minor issue. But as always with protruding items and pointy things, gotta think about potential injury. I can be a klutz at times.

 

[aporigine]

I just noticed your remark about the difficulty of returning the knife to the stand due to the small slots. What jumps to mind is to extend the verticals up a bit and flare the extensions (think of a funnel cut in half) so that the knife is captured even if it’s a bit misaligned.