I'm trying to get a western, chefs profile back on this western, chef's knife. 9 inch blade length, 1 7/8" height at heel. (230mm, 48mm)
What do you think about this mock-up?
What do you think about this mock-up?
Help me re-profile this knife, please.
- Thread starter Ericfg
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McMan
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One thought: you can't put metal back...
I'd do all the work to the edge-side first, testing on a cutting board as I go, starting with the tip lower than what's on the template and working from there. This way, you can get it absolutely perfect to how you want it (which might be a tad different from the standard German profile--or not). Then, once the profile is exactly how you like, work on blending the spine.
I can count on one hand the old euro knives I've had to completely reprofile. Others might have better ideas.
I'd do all the work to the edge-side first, testing on a cutting board as I go, starting with the tip lower than what's on the template and working from there. This way, you can get it absolutely perfect to how you want it (which might be a tad different from the standard German profile--or not). Then, once the profile is exactly how you like, work on blending the spine.
I can count on one hand the old euro knives I've had to completely reprofile. Others might have better ideas.
Grind down the extra near the heel so you have a continuous shallow curve heel to tip for the cutting edge, then check how it feels on board and adjust. Then bring the spine down to meet the tip.
I wouldn’t take any more off the edge side at the tip as i prefer a tip in line with cutting edge
I wouldn’t take any more off the edge side at the tip as i prefer a tip in line with cutting edge
Thanks for the like. I'm definitely going to have a straight edge at the conclusion of this rehab, I hope. And no, I'm not going to any of the bolster if I can help it. #TeamFullBolster!
Wise words. Regarding my initial re-profile outline: I'll def *not* cut/grind right down to that outline off the bat. I'm just trying to raise the tip a bit and make the spinal curve a bit more elegant.
100% keep bolster, but I like to grind them down to the sharpening angle. It's actually doable on these vintage thin bolsters. Makes sharpening much more enjoyable and sharpened bolsters are fun.Thanks fo And no, I'm not going to any of the bolster if I can help it. #TeamFullBolster!
The result of about 3 hours with sandpaper from 60 grit to 400, a coarse file for the heavy lifting, and occasionally some old, coarse stones. Oh, and a little dremel work as well. But mostly sandpaper and the file.
Unsharpened as of now but I'm pretty happy with the results. Heel stands at 47mm.
Unsharpened as of now but I'm pretty happy with the results. Heel stands at 47mm.
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Is it indeed deadly flat for more than 2/3s of the length? Not sure if that would be very comfortable with a forward motion, like 'guillotine and glide'.
Yeah, pretty much. And that seems to be a continuing issue with my re-profiles. But, at least that is fixable.
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Even quite easily, if you correct it while thinning and sharpening. Breadknifing is too gross for the relatively subtle changes I've in mind.
McMan
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Looks a whole lot better than before!
I agree with @Benuser, looks almost dead-flat.
My thinking would be to bring the belly at the tip back a hair more, and then to add a bit of back belly (which would require raising the bolster a hair). This would help avoid the "clunk" of a flat heel and make the tip a bit more functional.
I like the way you're thinking. The heel's still at a solid 47/48mm so I have a little bit of wiggle room with that. And I have the length currently to move the tip up a bit and not lose functionality if the blade get shortened a bit..
What I haven't mentioned is I bought this knife because of the rivets on the handle. Birdseye rivets are pretty scarce and in the last few years of of searching/focusing for Henckels material I've seen very few of these attachments by said maker.
