Here's an idea, try my carbon as a kiridashi.

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I think it's a great idea...I'll be paying attention for the next batch.
 
Sharpening... These are going to be a bit crude, but target is they all get a nice thin edge. I hollow ground these pre HT, so in time you'll be able to flatten/smooth these down in your sharpening. This is how I do it for my own shop kiridashi, and a couple of 5k strokes microbevel is definately a must imo, or the edge wont last very long.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BKSxMLmDPbt/
 
Saw your post on IG about these. Awesome idea. I hope everyone who gets one will post their experiences on it. Maybe I'll get lucky next time haha
 
Mine ships friday. Expect a mini review by months end. Should be sweet for pastry work and cutting pasta
 
Godslayer said:
Mine ships friday. Expect a mini review by months end. Should be sweet for pastry work and cutting pasta
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Awesome! I'll watch out for the review. And fun stuff with the pasta and pastry ideas. These could be useful if you wanted crisp fondant lines, pie lattice cuts, and probably loads of other stuff.

I've seen someone use these to cut leather pieces for leather working as well as marking lines for chisel work. Pretty useful IMO.
 
Weighing in just above 100g postage is almost 10 usd, fcuk me 😂

I'm considering getting some webstore so I can do these in a better way.
 
And to be clear we're sticking with said price for this batch. Thanks for the kind offers per email :doublethumbsup:
 
Aleque said:
Awesome! I'll watch out for the review. And fun stuff with the pasta and pastry ideas. These could be useful if you wanted crisp fondant lines, pie lattice cuts, and probably loads of other stuff.

I've seen someone use these to cut leather pieces for leather working as well as marking lines for chisel work. Pretty useful IMO.
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Thinking fun pasta shapes for kids, stars, hearts, unicorn horns etc. Omg heart shaped raviolli for v day, add some spices to the dough and maybe a drop/2 of food dye, id totallly get tons of compliments. Imagine that email, dalman got me laid lol.
 
RDalman said:
Weighing in just above 100g postage is almost 10 usd, fcuk me 😂

I'm considering getting some webstore so I can do these in a better way.
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So you basically charged $5 lol. Cheaper than ikea.
 
So i read the thread, i know kawamuki is a no go, but what about kogatana(i showed you one), randomly beveled. I know your new to smaller 60-90 mm cooking knives. You could bang out a few when you want some practice. Theres no handle just a 25mm x 140/170mm x 3 mm piece of steel, 50/70 mm of which is actual blade. Do a quick grind, toss on your logo, ht, sharpen and send them out. Im sure you could bang that out in no time and charge 1000/1200 sek. Cost to make them is basically nothing and i dont suspect griding would take long given the small and simple blades. You could use thèse to practice different grinds and maybe even break in a sigatute small blade style, cough, hamaguri, cough. Saying this you know im excited, four dalmans are going in the mail this week and probably two more by years end.
 
Godslayer said:
So i read the thread, i know kawamuki is a no go, but what about kogatana(i showed you one), randomly beveled. I know your new to smaller 60-90 mm cooking knives. You could bang out a few when you want some practice. Theres no handle just a 25mm x 140/170mm x 3 mm piece of steel, 50/70 mm of which is actual blade. Do a quick grind, toss on your logo, ht, sharpen and send them out. Im sure you could bang that out in no time and charge 1000/1200 sek. Cost to make them is basically nothing and i dont suspect griding would take long given the small and simple blades. You could use thèse to practice different grinds and maybe even break in a sigatute small blade style, cough, hamaguri, cough. Saying this you know im excited, four dalmans are going in the mail this week and probably two more by years end.
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That, my friend, is a REALLY good idea. Thank you 😘
 
I aim to please, could also use it as an add on, buy a gyuto for 1000 sek more get a kogatana style petty. Talk about upselling.
 
I've started sending out invoices. please check them so it's correct... If you haven't got one yet please be patient, doing outside eu first.
 
Well, I jsut recieved mine (perks of living in Sweden I guess ;) ) and I must say it is one lovely little piece of steel. You are in for a treat people. Now to find a good way to slap on some kind of a handle to it... :D
 
Just received mine this morning. Looks great and came with an amazing edge.
 
What about a five or ten set of the small ones, in whole or half HRC steps? Would be a set of good tools, teaching tool, selection aid for custom orders, piece of conversation over a cup of tea, calibration aid, hardness testing kit ....
 
I'm glad you like them so far. I was feeling a little ambiguos to sending them out that crude, so the next ones got rounded edges and proper polishing, but that also left it's mark on price :/

For the hardness kit, it would probably be something I can do, but I couldn't guarantee that precision as I don't have my own hardness tester. I could make and be fairly sure in 1 point increments. But I think as for now something like that would have to be custom ordered.
 
Thanks Marek! Hope you find uses for it haha :)
 
Any advice on best way to sharpen the dashi?.... Mine finally dulled after a lot of box cuttings....
 
Sharpen like a single bevel but not crazy, you need the edge straight from the backside to be able to flip the burr. I like stropping to deal with the last burr, but experiment, very easy steel to sharpen imo and that's part of the reason I want you guys to try it :)
 
I received mine yesterday, so thought I would take the opportunity to talk about my initial impressions with this steel which Robin enjoys so much...

Firstly, the edge was sharp out of the box, but the tip was broken off (There was a chamfer on the side of the steel bar, making the tip too thin to be stable.), giving me the opportunity to sharpen it.

Unlike Benuser, I decided to go the full crazy and sharpen it as a true single bevel, so I spent a total of 3-hours on an Atoma 140 flattening the back, grinding the spine to remove the chamfer and stabilize the tip, and clean up the primary bevel. I'm used to this sort of prep work with western chisels, so knew what to expect... Note: for those of you who also purchased a kogatana from Robin's first 'production run', and do not wish to go to this effort, I would sharpen this knife as a 99/1 double bevel at a very acute angle... Afterwards, the sharpening commenced, and - in the spirit of a true scientific test - I gave it a try on every type of stone I own. After the grind was perfected on the plate, the actual sharpening went lightning fast.

I can categorically state, that Robin's Bohler-Uddeholm UHB20C is the easiest steel I have ever had the pleasure of sharpening, and took an absurdly sharp edge. The closest comparison I can make is with Shirogami #2 (In my case, a Hiroshi Kato made Masakage Yuki @ ~62hrc.), but this is even easier to grind, feels better on the stones (Almost buttery), and gets a little bit sharper. Based upon abrasion feel, and the level of refinement this accepts, I would say that Robin's really nailed the HT, resulting in a very fine grain (Finer than just about anything else I own.). Like Shirogami #2, it takes a more refined, rather than 'toothy' edge like some of the more heavily alloyed carbons at a given grit.

A couple of things struck me whilst sharpening it... Firstly, the way it responded to even the most basic of sharpening equipment. Normally, something like Arkansas stones don't do a whole lot on a steel this hard (~63hrc quoted... Is this based upon rockwell testing, or HT charts, Robin?), but I decided to try an Arky progression for sherry and giggles and was quite surprised at their ability to both shape and sharpen it to a hair-whittling edge. It also responded to stropping on bare leather more dramatically than most steels, taking on noticeable refinement from this process... In the course of sharpening, I also tried it with finer diamond plates, diamond pasted strops (Monocrystaline), synthetic stones of various constructions and grits, Belgian Coticules and BBW's, a couple of different J-Nats, and some more obscure slates/sandstones (Like the La Pyrenees). The kogatana responded well to every single media I used with pleasurable feedback, and on naturals in the 'razor pre-finisher' level and above, takes an edge that easily tree-tops hair. One of the more interesting experiences were with the diamond plates, which seemed to tear this steel up significantly less than any of the Japanese carbons I have tried.

I will report my long-term findings once I have the opportunity to test edge retention, but my initial experiences with sharpening are glowingly positive. Because this steel responds so well to such a wide variety of sharpening media, I would say that it would be a fantastic choice for someone working in an environment where Japanese steels might be considered too 'fussy' regarding their sharpening requirements (As literally any tool that falls to hand can be used to sharpen it effectively.), for those with only basic sharpening equipment, or who are just learning to sharpen. The sharpness potential is also stellar... If Robin ever decides to make a straight razor, this is the steel he needs to do it in! ;) I can also see it as a great steel for single-bevel knives like Usuba or Yanagiba, and for those who prefer working with Hitachi white-paper steel knives of all types.

After working with my Kogatana, the only suggestion I could make would be that hollow grinding the back of the blade would make it tremendously faster for people to flatten. Grinding an ura on the back - whilst more time consuming - would make it significantly easier for people to sharpen this knife as a true single bevel in subsequent batches. Even if the added time equates to a cost increase to 200-300 SEK, I can't imagine people would complain given the time savings, and this is still a bargain to try the steel and the heat treatment for themselves given the quality.

However, that point is a matter of grind, and the point of this exercise was purely to give people an opportunity to test the steel, which I personally found to be stellar. :)

A question I do have, is if you [Mr. Dalman] are intending to do limited batch runs of Kogatanas (Or similarly simple blades.) in the other steels you use and continue to experiment with (Like 80CRV2, based upon your Instagram.), kind of like the Spyderco 'Mule Team Project'? I can see this being very popular, and as you experiment with more steels I can imagine your potential customers being grateful for the opportunity to try their metal choices before buying a knife.

I hope that this review is of use to those considering buying a knife from Robin in UHB20C (I certainly am!), and I will report back more once I get the chance to use the blade more extensively.

- Steampunk
 
Wow Steampunk! Haha full crazy indeed, very cool! Thank you! It's based on rockwell testing, but I don't have my own tester yet so what I've done is gotten my process consistent and sent out to tests to confirm. I did consider hollow back and "true" single bevel, but decided to do the same 99/1 style I do on my own, as I've been raising the included angle for my own shop knife/ adding microbevel on 5k/strop edge convex for my shop knife and get alot of more life out of the edge. I just start every sharpening with fixing the backside at a low angle and then raise burr to towards backside and proceed in the "regular" way. I'll get back and reply better once at a computer, in the shop now.

For the things I put in the shop I decided to make them a little prettier. Is there demand for me offering the crudest, cheapest kind of samples instead? I mean these had just "raw" cut edges, and the grind scratches from pre HT-grind that are left there, are 40-grit :s
 
Also worth noting on these, I did go out on a limb and put myself a little "at risk" with these. I put them 5-6 together spaced on a thick metal wire during heat treat, so I could quench them many at the same go, and I think most of them are not through hardened, but got "autohamon" a bit into them. At any rate they should have a good length fully hardened back from the edges, as I ground them thin there pre HT. If you decide to flatten and polish the bevels you can probably see a hamon on some of them.
 
RDalman said:
Wow Steampunk! Haha full crazy indeed, very cool! Thank you! It's based on rockwell testing, but I don't have my own tester yet so what I've done is gotten my process consistent and sent out to tests to confirm. I did consider hollow back and "true" single bevel, but decided to do the same 99/1 style I do on my own, as I've been raising the included angle for my own shop knife/ adding microbevel on 5k/strop edge convex for my shop knife and get alot of more life out of the edge. I just start every sharpening with fixing the backside at a low angle and then raise burr to towards backside and proceed in the "regular" way. I'll get back and reply better once at a computer, in the shop now.

For the things I put in the shop I decided to make them a little prettier. Is there demand for me offering the crudest, cheapest kind of samples instead? I mean these had just "raw" cut edges, and the grind scratches from pre HT-grind that are left there, are 40-grit :s
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Hi Robin! Thanks for the answers to my questions... I am glad you confirmed my suspicions of how you sharpened it, as I could tell the back wasn't flat and also could see/feel the convex; I thought it might have been power-stropped. I ended up flattening the back so that I could sharpen it with a true chisel grind, raising the primary to about 5-degrees, and putting on a 35-degree one-sided micro-bevel. So far no chipping or rolling.

The more polished examples you have in your store are certainly appreciated and at only 300sek still represent great value, but there has also been a great response to these very crude/cheap knives, as well. I say, do what you have to so that you can get examples of your wonderful steels and HT skills into the hands of the people who want to buy your knives. One advantage of the cruder knives is that one doesn't even think twice, and one also doesn't mind throwing oneself into a sharpening project, or even abusing the snot out of it in use to truly get a feel for how the steel performs and what its limits are. It's up to you...

What I do know, is that this experience has made me much more likely to buy a knife in UHB20C from you (This is the best handled low-alloy steel I have owned; I now understand why some smiths say that the simpler the steel, the more skill it takes to get the best out of it.), and I think that it would be awesome to have the same opportunity to try the other steels you use and those you continue to test as well. So much of the connection I make with a knife, and I know I am not alone in this, is that I had a good experience with that steel in something else (Sharpening, edge feel, edge retention, toughness, etc.). This kiridashi-kogatana 'shop knife' project is really cool for that reason, as it gives people the opportunity to 'connect' with your steels and your HT before saying "Yeah, that's the steel I want in my new custom!". Any way you decide to make that happen is a wonderful thing. :)

- Steampunk
 
Well after receiving a kiridashi I figured it was in need of a handle.

https://flic.kr/p/MjtkG7

https://flic.kr/p/Mjo44X

Super handy tool in my work area[emoji4]
I'll have to give this one to my brother who's a carpenter and order up a left handed one for myself. Thanks for a great little blade Robin[emoji106]🏻
 
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