Well I have done some lately but I have to get the customer's permission to leave it sort of crappily finished. You see the problem with doing thinning work on the Hiro AS's is the finish work it takes to remove the scratches from the crappy cladding is HUGE.
Basically you have two choices here....1) Use fine belts to thin which doesn;t make deep scratches but takes forever and is easy to burn the edge...OR......2) Simply thin as normal and do your best to remove the scratches but ignore what can't come out. If you try to grind out the deep scratches you get from anything 120x or coarser you burn through the cladding exposing the core in spots. It's a no win here unless the purpose of thinning is performance over cosmetics and then it's worth considering.
So yes I do thin them as long as you can live with some grind lines.
The lines were only visible upon closer inspection. Like, "Oh yeah, there they are, now I see what Dave was talking about." And really only those who know what work was done knew they were there. Most of the time the knife just looks so badass that you don't really notice it.
Oh and I have to mention that should this happen that I have to consider this secondary to the knifemaking since I have taken deposits on that months ago. The plan would be to slip these in between as it's often easy to do this when doing multiple handle work. It's easy to tackle multiple handles at the same time so when I'm at a point where I am doing Martell knife handles I can do Hiro handles too without take much time away from the knifemaking, it's like assembly work. I suspect that by the time I would get the knives from Japan I'll be well on my way through my own knives anyway.