Penan
Well-Known Member
Hello, I just bought a 240mm SS clad Toyama with a wooden handle. It's a great knife and I really want to take care of the knife, how do you do to take care of wooden handles so they don't dry out?
Thank you! I use a coconut oil beeswax mix for my wooden board, do you think that will be good for handles as well?Nice pickup.
Mineral oil, camellia oil, or a board butter type concoction (wax/oil mix) are all fine. I use the latter just because it's what I happen to have handy and it works nicely.
I like mineral oil and beeswax on my ho wood handles. Very easy to apply
Do you mix them yourself and at what ratio then or do you buy them already mixed together?I like a mineral oil/beeswax combo as well. I found ours at a local hardware store.
Awesome, I've done that for my wooden board with coconut oil and beeswax at a 10:1 ratio.You can also make your own by warming up the beeswax/mineral oil and mixing at a ratio of anywhere from 1:10 to 1:4 (waxil).
That's some great looking handles, might have to try tung oil and shellacTung oil is perfect, and after the oil has dried (1-3 days), cover the handle with Shellac. As the shellac wears off, it is easy to restore the surface. And the handles on your knives will always be like new .View attachment 121399
Thank you! I use a coconut oil beeswax mix for my wooden board, do you think that will be good for handles as well?
Thank's for the adviceI believe coconut oil can go rancid. If thats the case, then it may not be the best option. A big bottle of food grade mineral oil (sold as a laxative) can be found at your local pharmacy for a few bucks.
Cool knife! I've never oiled or waxed a ho. Although, some people do.Hello, I just bought a 240mm SS clad Toyama with a wooden handle. It's a great knife and I really want to take care of the knife, how do you do to take care of wooden handles so they don't dry out?
View attachment 121395View attachment 121396
This.I believe coconut oil can go rancid. If thats the case, then it may not be the best option. A big bottle of food grade mineral oil (sold as a laxative) can be found at your local pharmacy for a few bucks.
This.
Because it is a saturated fat, coconut oil is relitively resistant to oxidation (going rancid) but it will oxidise eventually.
Mineral oil (parrafin) won't oxidise and is a much better option for treating wooden parts of kitchen implements.
Some people will use hardware store bought parrafin for this purpose as it is a lot cheaper than "board oil" that you can buy form a kitchen supply. While I have no idea whether the "food grade" mineral oil is any different to the hardware grade, I have always been reluctant to use a non food grade oil.
In Aus, you can get pharmaceutical grade parrafin for about a third of the cost of kitchen store-bought board oil and this is what I use.
As mentioned above, you can make a board butter by mixing beswax with heated mineral oil (obviously be careful not to burn yourself). This doesn't soak into the wood like pure mineral oil- it forms a protective waterproof layer on the outside. This will obviously wear off after a time. Or you could buy board butter but it's often not cheap.
Having said all of this, I mostly do not oil my ho wood handles. When I do, it's usually just with some board butter.
I believe coconut oil can go rancid. If thats the case, then it may not be the best option. A big bottle of food grade mineral oil (sold as a laxative) can be found at your local pharmacy for a few bucks.
Some swedish dude once told me he recommended a hardening oil for handles. He uses tru-oil.
I've never oiled or waxed a ho. Although, some people do.
That's what she said.Gotta resist...making a joke...arrrggghhhh...
I have used both Beeswax/oil combo and Tung oil. They both do a good job of protecting the handle however the finish is slightly different.
I have found the wax/oil combo slightly darkens the wood with a smoother waxy finish.
The Tung oil is a bit lighter wood tones and more grippy feel.
I prefer the Tung oil, I just dunk the handle in to the container and leave it for 20 min or so then let dry for a few days removing the excess oil after a few hours.
James from KnS made a video on how to make the wax/oil combo
Ask him, I believe boiled linseed.Do you guys know what Bryan Raquins uses for his burnt oaks handles? The feel and smell on those handles are amazing.
Ask him, I believe boiled linseed.
I dislike parrafin oil on handles because the few times I tried the handles felt like they sweated oil sometimes and I felt like the wood took dirt easily.
So I like curing oils- birchwood casey tru-oil, danish oil, or boiled linseed.
Some swedish dude once told me he recommended a hardening oil for handles. He uses tru-oil.
i like tung oil. but its expensive. linseed oil will get yellow after some time.
i prefer to do the first coats mixed with acetone or white spirit naphta. it soaks in much deeper then.
the hardening oils are a much more permanent solution imo.
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