Some notes here: mineral oil diesn’t dry. It is made from petroleum. I have no idea why its used on wood involved in food prep. Since it doesn’t dry it absorbs flavors and whatever else contacts it.
For natural oils that actually cure you have flax oil (linseed), walnut oil, tung oil and maybe some others. Pure oils take forever to dry, particularly walnut oil. Boiled linseed oil and thd like have drying agents (toxic) added and other chemicals. Danish oils, and even ‘tung oil finish’ like waterlox are not oils, they are a type of varnish. Anything with resins is a varnish and will build a film on the surface as JoBone says. Actual oils don’t build a film easily and are low sheen and make the wood look great. They soak in and the surface hardens and lasts a while.
i think inferno gave lots of good advice. Thin the oil with mineral spirits for first coats, reapply until it stops soaking in (45 min or so), then wipe off excess and let dry. Add more coats if you want to build a film. Too thick of an initial coat gets sticky, particularly if it doesn’t have drying agents. Thinning the oil makes it less likely too get sticky.
Heating a pure oil to the smoke point makes it polmerize and dry faster. This happens when you season cast iron. I don’t think this is a good idea for a wood finish unless its s factory process.