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Keit great to hear you enjoying the DE shave.. i hurd good things about the blades Personna Lab Blues and Rapira Swedish Supersteel , 2 brands you should try for sure.

im jusing both aftershaves and balms. i like Dr.harrison Sandelwood alot, also TOBS Mr.Taylor.
 
LASTLY, nice looking addiction...er, collection you have started there, Matt. Remind me I want to send you a badger brush in the next week or so.

Sorry Lefty I just noticed this, I made one with Cocobolo and badger and was about to post pics until Pierre and Magnus posted theirs and it made mine look likea pre schooler made it. Back to the drawing board, I am making a new one from some black wood that I hope turns out better than the first.

That being said, I am not sure there is much that can beat the badger hair. It really feels great. Curious as to what size most use. I made mine with a 22cm brush and it feels good to me, but I have seen some as large as 30 cm. Is there a performance difference with a larger knot?
 
Keit great to hear you enjoying the DE shave.. i hurd good things about the blades Personna Lab Blues and Rapira Swedish Supersteel , 2 brands you should try for sure.

im jusing both aftershaves and balms. i like Dr.harrison Sandelwood alot, also TOBS Mr.Taylor.

Thanks after a little research decided to order 100ml of the Dr. Harrison Sandelwood:)
 
if you like sandelwood. harrison is top notch.:happymug:

Been using the Harrison sandlewood almost a week.Use very little,like it.This bottle should last me a long time.Been using the feather blade fr. Japan,it seems really sharp,today shaved a 2 day growth,very little resistance
 
New shave video. Enjoy :) joseph Rodgers 8/8

[video=youtube;dsgUYl1ILSI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=dsgUYl1ILSI#![/video]
 
This is my initial venture into straight razor. Only the razors and Ozuku mizu are new, rest is recycled from knife sharpening gears.

razor_gears.jpg
 
I have been using a DE for a couple years now, and just ordered my first straight from Whipped Dog. I'm looking for advice on a high grit stone without spending a ton. Right now I have the Martell core set of Beston 500, Bester 1200, Rika 5K and a leather bench strop loaded with CrO2, I have a plain leather barber strop on the way with the razor. I'm thinking when it comes time to hone I might want a stone between the Rika 5K and the strop. I'm considering the Takenoko 8K, the Kitayama 8K, or the Ozuku Asagi natural stone. What's your advice? Or do I really need to go up to a 10K or 15K?

Thanks
 
I have been using a DE for a couple years now, and just ordered my first straight from Whipped Dog. I'm looking for advice on a high grit stone without spending a ton. Right now I have the Martell core set of Beston 500, Bester 1200, Rika 5K and a leather bench strop loaded with CrO2, I have a plain leather barber strop on the way with the razor. I'm thinking when it comes time to hone I might want a stone between the Rika 5K and the strop. I'm considering the Takenoko 8K, the Kitayama 8K, or the Ozuku Asagi natural stone. What's your advice? Or do I really need to go up to a 10K or 15K?

Thanks

Unless you get involved in restoration, you'll never have any need for the three stones you have - they are all too too coarse for a final hone, and all you would do is just needlessly remove metal from a razor that just needs a touchup.

The razor you get should be shave ready, so you won't need to touch it to a stone for several months. Make a strop from a piece of balsa (a hobby store is a good place to get some) loaded with CrO. Use it to freshen the edge when you feel it needs it.

When the time comes to use a stone, I would suggest picking up a Naniwa SS 10K or 12K (the 10mm thickness is sufficient if you are budget minded). Yes, you can use an 8K, but your face won't thank you.

One more thing. IMO, the Whipped Dog plain leather strop is just barely functional, so you might consider a decent hanging strop with linen on one side and leather on the other.

Rick
 
Or do I really need to go up to a 10K or 15K?
Many people, including myself, have shaved with 8k edge comfortably. I do step it up with SS 12k, 20k Gokumyo, and some CBN myself occasionally but I think that's more of an obsession than anything else.

TBH, the most important thing about straights is the pre-shave routine. Shaving with properly softened whiskers vs a dry hair can mean a world of difference. And it don't cost a thing.
 
Many people, including myself, have shaved with 8k edge comfortably. I do step it up with SS 12k, 20k Gokumyo, and some CBN myself occasionally but I think that's more of an obsession than anything else.

TBH, the most important thing about straights is the pre-shave routine. Shaving with properly softened whiskers vs a dry hair can mean a world of difference. And it don't cost a thing.
I don't do any preshave and the shaves are still great, it is all about the razor.
 
IMO a good prep gives a smoother shave .. sure you can shave without prep and get a good shave but its a fact it will be better if you done a good prep.
 
IMO a good prep gives a smoother shave .. sure you can shave without prep and get a good shave but its a fact it will be better if you done a good prep.
Not saying do not prep, only saying it does not really change anything with well honed razor and good experience.
 
Unless you get involved in restoration, you'll never have any need for the three stones you have - they are all too too coarse for a final hone, and all you would do is just needlessly remove metal from a razor that just needs a touchup.

The razor you get should be shave ready, so you won't need to touch it to a stone for several months. Make a strop from a piece of balsa (a hobby store is a good place to get some) loaded with CrO. Use it to freshen the edge when you feel it needs it.

When the time comes to use a stone, I would suggest picking up a Naniwa SS 10K or 12K (the 10mm thickness is sufficient if you are budget minded). Yes, you can use an 8K, but your face won't thank you.

One more thing. IMO, the Whipped Dog plain leather strop is just barely functional, so you might consider a decent hanging strop with linen on one side and leather on the other.

Rick
Thanks Rick, looks like my next investment should be a better strop, what do you suggest?
 
Latest Razor find. Cleaned up very well. and i like it alot :)

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[video=youtube;a7lss66KLPY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7lss66KLPY&feature=share&list=LLW8eMt9iy0-4JakPtj_oOaA[/video]
 
Nice find.
I have that exact same razor.
The edge you can put on this razor will surprise you every time.
One of the only razors that I have that I can do a single pass of WTG and feel pretty good about going out to work.

If it's ok may I ask how what it cost you?
 
I find Filarmonica line of razors to have pretty soft steel, very easy to hone. I did restore this blade myself so I got it for a very good price. 200 euro. Know it's worth much more in this condition.
 
If anyone is interested I have a Straight over in the BST thread, please check it out.
 
Finished this Filarmoica yesterday for my collection.
I have never seen 1/4 hollow Filarmonca before, so this is a first. It is also of the more rare Medallion Taurino model.
Decided to blue the tang, scales are bone, domed SS washers with brass pins.

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great looking razor. a shame the etching is gone.
The etch is still there, the gold wash is gone.
The condition it was (tiny rust spots all over), it had to be cleaned up more aggressively.

5xtull.jpg

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have you tryd micro mesh? buffering with compunds tends to eat up the etching very fast, using micromesh on high grits (6k up to 12k) is milder on the etching and you will be able to take of rust without to much damage on the etching and gold..
 
have you tryd micro mesh? buffering with compunds tends to eat up the etching very fast, using micromesh on high grits (6k up to 12k) is milder on the etching and you will be able to take of rust without to much damage on the etching and gold..
I like nice clean blades, the etch is there, the wash is not too important for me. I can't stand blades with pitting marks on them, and I do not think they look well with brand new custom shiny scales.
When I restore for others, I do as they ask, then all kinds of tricks are in play.
 
well ok but the value drop alot by doing that. anyways it looks like a good shaver and you did a good job on the scales for sure.
 
Thank you for the info on the micro meshing.
My fili was also pitted when I bought it and I had to take it to the buffer.
Etching is still there but the gold wash is gone.
I always felt bad about that.

Where do you get your micro mesh from?
 
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