i am searching for a good low enough grit stone for thinning that i can flatten using an atoma 140

[r0bz]

i am searching for a good low enough grit stone for thinning knives and maybe minor repairs that i can flatten using an atoma 140
maybe is it worth getting a diamond plate like dmt and not worry about flattening it at all ?
** edit i sharpen almost only low hrc knifes and cleavers rockwell between 56-58 but

 

[M1k3]

Shapton Pro/Kuromaku or Glass 220.
Debado 180.
King 300.
Assorted porous Pink bricks in the 200 range.
Nanohone 200.
Suehiro 320.

 

[r0bz]

Shapton Pro/Kuromaku or Glass 220.
Debado 180.
King 300.
Assorted porous Pink bricks in the 200 range.
Nanohone 200.
Suehiro 320.

do you think something like a DMT is worth for the reason of not needing to flatten it ?

 

[M1k3]

do you think something like a DMT is worth for the reason of not needing to flatten it ?

Diamond plates stay flatter. And cut faster initially. But wear out faster.

 

[r0bz]

Shapton Pro/Kuromaku or Glass 220.
Debado 180.
King 300.
Assorted porous Pink bricks in the 200 range.
Nanohone 200.
Suehiro 320.

they say that:
Note: Use this stone for carbon steel blades only. Alloyed steel will clog up the sharpening surface.
https://www.fine-tools.com/king-stones.htmlbut i need the stone to sharpen stainless steel ...
is it true what they say if so how can i use it with stainless steel low hrc knives.....?
is the king 300 splash and go and does not need soaking ?

 

[Choppin]

I've only tried a few different stones, but I love my Shapton Glass 220.

About the King 300, technically it's a splash n go, and it works well for edges this way. But it works best for thinning / polishing if you soak it. I have used mine on stainless with no issues other than clogging / loading, but then you refresh it with the Atoma and it's ready to go again... no big deal. I haven't noticed any extra clogging with stainless vs. carbon...

 

[Rangen]

Diamond plates stay flatter. And cut faster initially. But wear out faster.

And, in my limited experience, make deeper, nastier scratches that are harder to remove, especially when applying pressure.

 

[Rangen]

For completeness, it is probably worth mentioning sandpaper. Yes, one can go through a lot of it, but it's effective, doesn't gum up when used wet, and you don't have to flatten it.

 

[Nemo]

For completeness, it is probably worth mentioning sandpaper. Yes, one can go through a lot of it, but it's effective, doesn't gum up when used wet, and you don't have to flatten it.

This.

Sandpaper is a very useful alternative for significant metal removal.

I haven't found a stone coarser than Chosera 400 (maybe 600 grit JIS) that is overall easier to use than sandpaper.

I tend to use the 400 for minor thinning and sandpaper if a lot of metal is coming off.

Another benefit of sandpaper is that you can choose your grit, making it easy to remove a lot of metal with a low grit, then a gradually finer refinishing progression is easy to do.

You can add a flexible backing which adds a bit of convexity (use this with caution until you know what you are doing).

Sandpaper cuts aggressively first then less aggressively. This seems to cause finer scratch pattern when it is a bit worn, which also aids with refinishing.

In the very coarse grits (under 300), I probably change sandpaper no more often than I would flatten an equivalent stone. Once over 400 grit, the stone is probably less work overall.

One downside of sandpaper is that the feedback is pretty ordinary. But you aren't using it to sharpen the edge, so this is not so important.

 

[GorillaGrunt]

Pink brick

 

[r0bz]

I've only tried a few different stones, but I love my Shapton Glass 220.

About the King 300, technically it's a splash n go, and it works well for edges this way. But it works best for thinning / polishing if you soak it. I have used mine on stainless with no issues other than clogging / loading, but then you refresh it with the Atoma and it's ready to go again... no big deal. I haven't noticed any extra clogging with stainless vs. carbon...

do you know if I can use this nagura to refreshen ?
https://www.workshopheaven.com/king-japanese-nagura-stone-8-000-grit/also, how do you know when is the stone clogged? (i have never owned a splash and go stone only soakers)

https://www.chefknivestogoforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=2892they write here "No need to soak it. The King Deluxe 300 is splash-and-go. In fact, soaking the stone can be detrimental to its life."

for how long do you soak the king 300 stone ? and can it harm it if you are soaking it as it is a splash and go?

 

[MowgFace]

Gesshin 220 Pink Brick is my low grit stone of choice.

 

[M1k3]

do you know if I can use this nagura to refreshen ?
https://www.workshopheaven.com/king-japanese-nagura-stone-8-000-grit/also, how do you know when is the stone clogged? (i have never owned a splash and go stone only soakers)

https://www.chefknivestogoforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=2892they write here "No need to soak it. The King Deluxe 300 is splash-and-go. In fact, soaking the stone can be detrimental to its life."

for how long do you soak the king 300 stone ? and can it harm it if you are soaking it as it is a splash and go?

I used to have the King 300. I left it soaking all the time. Never had any detriment to it.

 

[r0bz]

I used to have the King 300. I left it soaking all the time. Never had any detriment to it.

as you have had the king 300 did you experience the "use with only carbon steel ?"

View attachment 206590
they say that:
Note: Use this stone for carbon steel blades only. Alloyed steel will clog up the sharpening surface.
https://www.fine-tools.com/king-stones.htmlbut i need the stone to sharpen stainless steel ...
is it true what they say if so how can i use it with stainless steel low hrc knives.....?
is the king 300 splash and go and does not need soaking ?

and do you know if i can use it with this nagura and flatten with atoma 140 ?
https://www.workshopheaven.com/king-japanese-nagura-stone-8-000-grit/

 

[riba]

and do you know if i can use it with this nagura and flatten with atoma 140 ?
https://www.workshopheaven.com/king-japanese-nagura-stone-8-000-grit/

Why do you want to use a natural? Just use the atoma to flatten and generate mud

 

[r0bz]

Why do you want to use a natural? Just use the atoma to flatten and generate mud

a natural?
I am pretty sure this Nagura is synthetic
I just bought it some time ago and it hasn't seen any usage that's why I ask if I can use it...

 

[M1k3]

as you have had the king 300 did you experience the "use with only carbon steel ?"

and do you know if i can use it with this nagura and flatten with atoma 140 ?
https://www.workshopheaven.com/king-japanese-nagura-stone-8-000-grit/

For me, it acted the same across carbon and stainless steels.

 

[r0bz]

For me, it acted the same across carbon and stainless steels.

forgive me for my lack of knowladge but i have never owned a splash and go stone
how do you know that it has clogged up?
and if i flatten it everytime after i use it with atoma 140 is it enough or it can clog while i am using it ?
and is this nagura can be used to remove the clogging ?

 

[Kawa]

I dont think you can use it.

Its an 8000 gritt nagura on a 300 gritt stone.
You will 'polish' your 300 gritt. It will feel glazed afterwards. You round down the hilltops on the 300, which make your 300 gritt dont cut as fast anymore.
It will feel much finer.

SiC makes your coarse stone stay coarse, since it hollows out the hilltops/valleys. Therefor its often called lapping/conditioning instead of only flattening.

I have no experience with the atoma 140 though.

 

[Choppin]

do you know if I can use this nagura to refreshen ?
https://www.workshopheaven.com/king-japanese-nagura-stone-8-000-grit/also, how do you know when is the stone clogged? (i have never owned a splash and go stone only soakers)

https://www.chefknivestogoforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=2892they write here "No need to soak it. The King Deluxe 300 is splash-and-go. In fact, soaking the stone can be detrimental to its life."

for how long do you soak the king 300 stone ? and can it harm it if you are soaking it as it is a splash and go?

I permasoak (keep it in water all the time) mine with no issues, and I know many members here do the same. Or soak it for 30min (overnight is best) if permasoaking is not convenient for you.

You'll know it's clogged when the stone surface turns black (meaning there's metal trapped there) and it stops cutting new metal properly. It will feel different also, like the knife is sort of skating on top of the stone instead of being cut by it.

8000 grit seems to fine to properly "declogg" it. I'll just use the atoma. The nagura is best to recondition the stone surface after you use the atoma (make it less rough), but I think that's unnecessary specially in a course stone.

 

[r0bz]

t

I permasoak (keep it in water all the time) mine with no issues, and I know many members here do the same. Or soak it for 30min (overnight is best) if permasoaking is not convenient for you.

You'll know it's clogged when the stone surface turns black (meaning there's metal trapped there) and it stops cutting new metal properly. It will feel different also, like the knife is sort of skating on top of the stone instead of being cut by it.

8000 grit seems to fine to properly "declogg" it. I'll just use the atoma. The nagura is best to recondition the stone surface after you use the atoma (make it less rough), but I think that's unnecessary specially in a course stone.

thank you for the comment I have no problems waiting for it to soak as much as needed I was just worried that it will harm it because it was written somewhere

by the way, i have a sun tiger 800 stone that I soak for about a day before I use it
for how long do you soak your other stones if you have any other soakers?

 

[r0bz]

I permasoak (keep it in water all the time) mine with no issues, and I know many members here do the same. Or soak it for 30min (overnight is best) if permasoaking is not convenient for you.

You'll know it's clogged when the stone surface turns black (meaning there's metal trapped there) and it stops cutting new metal properly. It will feel different also, like the knife is sort of skating on top of the stone instead of being cut by it.

8000 grit seems to fine to properly "declogg" it. I'll just use the atoma. The nagura is best to recondition the stone surface after you use the atoma (make it less rough), but I think that's unnecessary specially in a course stone.

which one of the stones would you recommend the most out of what @M1k3 has suggested
the main deal breaker for me is it has to be a stone that can be flattened with an atoma,
from the youtube reviews the king 300 seems to be the best for me....

Shapton Pro/Kuromaku or Glass 220.
Debado 180.
King 300.
Assorted porous Pink bricks in the 200 range.
Nanohone 200.
Suehiro 320.

links for refernace

 

[Choppin]

which one of the stones would you recommend the most out of what @M1k3 has suggested
the main deal breaker for me is it has to be a stone that can be flattened with an atoma,
from the youtube reviews the king 300 seems to be the best for me....


links for refernace

Depends on the stone, but usually I either permasoak or soak it overnight. If you are short of time, 15-30min works well, but I seem to get better results with longer soaks.

Honestly I have only used the Shapton Glass 220 and the King 300 out of these. Both can definitely be flattened with an Atoma. I like the SG220 slightly better because it's faster and doesn't clog as frequently as the King. But the King is also great, and cheaper... I would get whatever is more convenient for you (cheaper, local availability / quickest shipping, etc)

 

[riba]

a natural?
I am pretty sure this Nagura is synthetic
I just bought it some time ago and it hasn't seen any usage that's why I ask if I can use it...

Sorry, nagura got auto corrected to natural

 

[pavhav]

Gesshin 220 Pink Brick is my low grit stone of choice.

I asked Jon at JKI specifically what he'd recommend for thinning stainless clad knives, (short of a belt sander), and he said the Gesshin 220. I can't speak to it myself, as I have yet to get back home to unpack/try it, but he's always made sound recommendations before.

 

[Heckel7302]

for how long do you soak the king 300 stone ? and can it harm it if you are soaking it as it is a splash and go?

Mine has been soaking for about a year. No problems.

The King 300 is a stone I like, but I think it’s a bit higher than 300 in reality. I also have the SP220 and it moves metal faster IMO.

 

[Choppin]

The King 300 is a stone I like, but I think it’s a bit higher than 300 in reality. I also have the SP220 and it moves metal faster IMO.

Agree... I usually use my SG220 for thinning and then move to the King 300 to start polishing / removing the scratches.

 

[r0bz]

Agree... I usually use my SG220 for thinning and then move to the King 300 to start polishing / removing the scratches.

what is the sg220

 

[M1k3]

Shapton Glass 220

 

[r0bz]

Shapton Pro/Kuromaku or Glass 220.
Debado 180.
King 300.
Assorted porous Pink bricks in the 200 range.
Nanohone 200.
Suehiro 320.

do you know what is the abrasive in the king 300 and the cerax 320 ? sic or aluminum oxide
also which one of these would you recommend more from the youtube reviews that i saw the cerax 320 is soft gets unflat faster and also cuts slower