i bought a hard use knife. and used it.

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inferno

inferno

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so i got a cheap, 100€, beginner deba from cleancut today. hand picked it... a beefy fukr. premium aus8 steel i think, lamianted with even more premium kitchen sink SS. i figured i have never had a full size deba, so i think i needed one. so i got one.

https://www.cleancut.se/butik/knivmodeller/deba/deba-2-detail

i wondered how i could test its quality somehow. then i figured i'd do some kind of stress test. i mean, what could possibly go wrong here?

sharpened it up to 3k on a glass stone, took maybe 5 minutes. i think the angle was quite severe. must have been 40-45deg from the factory. i just followed that.

then i subjected it to the "beer can test". turned out this was in fact the dura-marathon beer can test the deba had signed up for :)

deba1.JPG


the actual test... i used my hard use knife. sufficiently hard.

this is how it looks after one chop. but i didnt really stop there if you know what i mean.
deba2.JPG


sometime the knife stuck very deep, in a funny way. that was worth documenting.

deba3.JPG


another angle

deba4.JPG


sometimes you get lucky.
deba5.JPG

other side of that.
deba6.JPG


I guess this the equivalent of a hole in one. i split the can in half in one chop. this was like the 5th can or so :)
still going strong obviously.

deba7.JPG


I got lucky here.
deba8.JPG

results!

deba9.JPG
 

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lets have a look at the edge. sure this was 40-45 deg or so. so its not really a laser here obviously. but i think it performed above expectations.

the biggest chip is 2x1mm and basically thats nothing. i sharpen my coworkers knives that are worse than this. and now i'm starting to wonder *** they actually do with their knives. it must be worse than this obviously.


deba10.JPG
 
also all the chips seems the be quite ductile fractures. aus8 is actually quite good steel imo.
 
stringer said:
Now that's a durability test. Well done. Let us know how the resharpen goes.
Click to expand...

i promised my coworker i was gonna time it. He thinks an hour. i think 10 minutes. based on how quickly it went on the 3k glass to get it up to speed.
 
also the actual finish on the blade was like 7/10. quite good for being almost free/very cheap.

the handle have a plastic ferrule an some red/brown wood that i will be replacing obviously. but its not gonna be elaborate this time (for those that have seem my other handles) plain jane 1 or 2 wood. as simple as possible. and most likely regular ash, since i have that, that i got for free. and then maybe, maybe, a slight thin bolster of some darker wood. maybe.

the actual edge was not that good though. sure it would cut food and all that. and was quite evenly ground. it took me maybe 5 minutes on a 3k stone to get it good all over, both sides. and obviously the back side is only supposed to be flat flat flat!! but i spent 5 minutes and a magic marker to spot where the edge actually was. sharpened up nicely. not gummy on my stone.

but the factory edge was abut a 500-1k or so. not really up to your standards here really. but then again. i never use a factory edge. i have about 30 stones. so why should i? i simply dont. and i feel it would cut more beer cans with my 3k edge than the factory one so that was it.
 
I'm also now in possession of an akifusa in srs15 that i am somehow willing to sacrifice for the cause of semiscientific science.
 
I see - couldn't tell from the pix.

I've read that some deba's are sharpened more obtuse near the back. What's your preferred geometry for a deba?
 
I have no preference for a deba. its my first one.

but a deba should be flat/straight on the front, on the actual bevel, then a microbevel, and on the back the spine and edge should only be the only thing abraded when laid flat on the stone. and this one is like that. the back side should be an arc.

its a real deba. a cheap one. if you look at the pics you will see how its ground on the back side. I ground the back side on a 3k stone. for like 1 minute. only for deburring the front sharpening though. the back side is done correctly i think.
 
I feel its was the same front side angle all over pretty much, no difference front to back in general, nothing i could detect on the stones. but i only spent like 1 minute on the actual wide bevel of the front. i concentrated on the microbevel. the "microbevel" though was quite severe in size and was not that micro.
 
This was an odd test. But it has a nice viking brute force feel to it. Can I ask: what did the test reveal? Are there any data to compare with? How many beer cans does a nice Gyuto, for example, thrash before it gives up?
 
That’s a lot more damage than I expected on such a heavy blade.
 
Yikes on that Spicy White! Crazy steel or crazy heat treat?
 
stringer said:
Now that's a durability test. Well done. Let us know how the resharpen goes.
Click to expand...

i did the actual edge "repair" today. took about 1,5h on a shapton pro 220 :)
could have gone faster if i didn't try to spread the wear evenly over the stone.
also trying to keep the profile the same as factory took some extra time.

tomorrow i will do the glass 500, chosera 800 then i'm thinking the kitayama 4k and then its done. i'm gussing it will take maybe as little as 10 minutes now then all the heavy lifting is done.
 
chinacats said:
Yikes on that Spicy White! Crazy steel or crazy heat treat?
Click to expand...

none of the above.
he is simply cutting some mild steel can. I do similar stuff with my moras at work some times. thats not a really hard to do with most thin knives.
 
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