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Kiya Hamono book

Will post raw pictures. Shigefusa hardness and microstructure
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Sakai Blacksmith Umesaku​

堺鍛冶梅作​

It is a work of Mr. Shunichi Kosaka who was the third generation of Sakai blacksmith plum.

堺鍛冶梅の三代目であった小阪俊一氏の作品です。
日本刀製作の技法を取り入れ、刃に綾杉紋という美しい波紋を浮かび上がらせる。
添付している書類や箱がございませんので、ご了承ください。

https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/f1057409046
https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/f1057409046
 

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Broken old yanagi tip

You can see how thick the steel is, the grain, and compare it to the iron. You can see the ura cross section and also the steel cross section isn't uniform.

The blade had a crack for a long time and there was corrosion so the steel is blackened.

I cracked the very tip off to check how the steel is there, and it's not corroded and much brighter. 2.5mm thick at thickest

Courtesy @Greasylake

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If you're crazy enough, warped single bevels can be straightened. If the ura on the spine and edge side are not on the same plane, first straighten the spine to be flat on the ura side. Then perform uradashi, or hammer on the iron cladding to make the edge become straight and meet the same plane as the spine. I know shigefusa also hammered the steel side on the kiya hamono book, but I don't recall if that's before or after hardening. . . Hammering the iron is safer though. Dull the edge to help prevent cracks, or just be aware of the increased danger I guess.

If it's Damascus or honyaki. . . . Tough luck lol. Maybe a carbide hammer
 
The straightening pictures.

Spine was straightened by stick. Very strenuous. Then the iron was hammered. No cracks so far. I use the rounded part of the anvil but the edge of a wood stump works well and better in my experience. Did the heel now have to do the tip area. Work consistently along the whole area. It will straighten slowly from the area where the two bend lines meet. I used marker to make sure I didn't over hammer. When over hammered, the hammered portion is noonger straight with whatever straight portion of the edge we had. The only way I know to address that is to sharpen it which makes a thicker urasuki line. The ura curve or recess itself isn't gonna be consistent all the way, and this will be apparent when the knife gets used up on the ura side. But the edge and spine are planar in it's current state of being used up. At least now I have more appreciation for the sharpeners that do make the ura edge and spine planar, and the urasuki itself very consistent for a long knife knife. There was a video of the Hide knife sharpeners on YouTube with an English translation or something, about how they have to hammer in or bend or create ura if there wasn't any from the knife maker. They used a metal handheld block to hammer on the iron side. This is partly inspired by that as well as the Kanna woodworking uradashi that's more commonly talked about

This a dogyu brand anvil and picard hammer and I use the cross peen side.

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Also I tried straightening a knife with a heavy wood block and a countertop. Very effictive, even more so than a bending stick. Was able to do a 180 deba and a nakiri. I imagine concrete blocks with cloth can work too. Put knife between and bend. Maybe if really heavy sit on the block lol
 
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