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JNS, Arashiyama or Snow White

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adam92

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As i already have the Arashiyama and snow white, Should i get one more JNS 6000?

I haved Suehiro cerax 1000, Should i get JNS 1000?

As I'm going to get JNS 800 & red aoto, should i get JNS1000?
 
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kayman67

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You shouldn't, but you probably should and will.
Why?
Because that's how the game works. You get them, use them, maybe keepers, maybe not, sell them. Lose some money, call it experience investment and buy something else.
As a side note, you should be more specific about what you want from them. What you like and dislike with your routine now. What knives in general, in particular. Some could be great for something or rather useless for something else. We need some kind of perspective.
 

adam92

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You shouldn't, but you probably should and will.
Why?
Because that's how the game works. You get them, use them, maybe keepers, maybe not, sell them. Lose some money, call it experience investment and buy something else.
As a side note, you should be more specific about what you want from them. What you like and dislike with your routine now. What knives in general, in particular. Some could be great for something or rather useless for something else. We need some kind of perspective.
Your point is very convincing.

When i using Snow white, have to use very light pressure,otherwise lose the toothy edge i get from Cerax or Shapton pro 2000, SW result more like mirror polish.

Arashiyama Looks kasumi, Can bring out the contracts between hagane & jigane. However, when i sharpen on single bevel, the minerals from stone occasionally came out & stick to the blade, looks like rusty.

SW is very hard, stay flat for very long time. I've been using for about two years but still didn't notify any shortened life. It's might because i didn't use much.

I try JCK 1000/4000 combo before, They're useless for SG2 steel.

Is JNS 800, red aoto & JNS 6000 Semi synthetic with natural power inside?
 
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adam92

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what are you using it for? what is your goal?
I'm using for single bevel knife.

It's for sashimi cutting, i need stone with more toothy edge.

When i sharpen my furinkazan blue 2 is easy to get toothy edge, But not when i doing on shiraki blue one yanagi..
 

bruce8088

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and why would you want 3 stones 6k+ and yet you say you want toothy edge but its for sashimi cutting and in the end why would you want toothy edge for sashimi cutting to begin with? not sure what you mean about minerals in the stone either, maybe you are on that stone for too long and your water is too hard, perhaps try using bottled soft water or install a water softener.
 

adam92

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and why would you want 3 stones 6k+ and yet you say you want toothy edge but its for sashimi cutting and in the end why would you want toothy edge for sashimi cutting to begin with? not sure what you mean about minerals in the stone either, maybe you are on that stone for too long and your water is too hard, perhaps try using bottled soft water or install a water softener.
What's mean water too hard?
 

Benuser

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Hard to believe you may get a toothier edge with any other than the Snow-white. Raising a bit of slurry may help.
Perhaps a technique question. Try using it only edge leading.
 
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Nemo

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What's mean water too hard?
I think he's referring to calcium content of the water. Water high in Ca is called hard water and it can affect a whole lot of chemical perocesses. For example, soap will not lather well in hard water.
 

zizirex

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I'm using for single bevel knife.

It's for sashimi cutting, i need stone with more toothy edge.

When i sharpen my furinkazan blue 2 is easy to get toothy edge, But not when i doing on shiraki blue one yanagi..
For single bevel if you want more toothy, go lower than 6k, maybe try morihei hi 4k or naniwa hayabusa. Morihei 6K is also pretty toothy (I can use it for honesuki toothy), but you already have a bunch of 6K so why bother. Or, what I would do is finish lower on different side. If your main bevel was finished on 8k, maybe try finish on the ura side on lower grit. Or the other way around.
 

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