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Couldn't you just step from 6K to 12K?

I think SP5000 can do what I want with stainless - Konosuke proof at hand, and a whole lot of others that went there. But SP2K also works very well with stainless, so I often would shortcut the SP5000 entirely.

One big reason I put it aside for a long while, and experienced once again last night when I went at it with the Shi.Han 52100, is that I never felt the SP5000 to do so good with carbons. Edge is very nice - but I've given it a more suiting one with the Rika before. Those things are still not so clear to me though - what stone works best with what kind of steel, and was it something that I've done, the stone, or the steel very specifically?....

My focus was get the knife sharp for most of my experience so far. Only lately am I comparing stones and edges related with steels.
 
also with regards to the gray vs white glass.

i think they use the the same grit in both but the gray ones have like 25% "polishing agent" in there. so its slower, but it now polishes.
there are small splotches of things in the gray stones that the whites dont have. it looks exactly like the naniwa superstones but i guess those are 50% polishing agent or so.
 
ModRQC said:
Couldn't you just step from 6K to 12K?

I think SP5000 can do what I want with stainless - Konosuke proof at hand, and a whole lot of others that went there. But SP2K also works very well with stainless, so I often would shortcut the SP5000 entirely.

One big reason I put it aside for a long while, and experienced once again last night when I went at it with the Shi.Han 52100, is that I never felt the SP5000 to do so good with carbons. Edge is very nice - but I've given it a more suiting one with the Rika before. Those things are still not so clear to me though - what stone works best with what kind of steel, and was it something that I've done, the stone, or the steel very specifically?....

My focus was get the knife sharp for most of my experience so far. Only lately am I comparing stones and edges related with steels.
Click to expand...

i think the pros and glass seems to work pretty much the same on both carbon and ss. but the ss usually behaves different with the different grits.
basically you can take carbons up in grit more and they will respond good to that. it doesn't top out as fast as ss. usually you come to a point/grit where you feel it doesn't get sharper/better/whatever anymore, you're just wasting time. and this level is higher with carbons in general. imo.

one of my friends have the 5k pro. he doesn't like it. and therefore i guess i wont like it either, since we have similar taste in stones.

---------

you can jump from 1 or 2k to 12k if you want. no problem at all. it just takes another minute or 3.

but my stone philosophy is this: why have 1 when you can have 4 :)
 
ModRQC said:
Couldn't you just step from 6K to 12K?

I think SP5000 can do what I want with stainless - Konosuke proof at hand, and a whole lot of others that went there. But SP2K also works very well with stainless, so I often would shortcut the SP5000 entirely.
Click to expand...
When we speak of the Shapton Pros, this series benefits from a strict progression. 1k (or 1.5k), 2k, 5k, 8k, 12k.

The Glass Stones allow larger jumps, for example # 500 to 3k, 2k to 6k, 2k to 8k or 16k.

I would like to emphasize again that I am only talking about my own experiences. With the Pro's I got the very best results with the "strict" progression.

I often read from others that they don't like the 5k and therefore jump directly from 2k to 8k. Of course this is possible, but when it comes to the best results with high grain sizes with the Shapton Pro's then, for me, the Shapton Pro 5k pivotal, as well as the strict progression.
 
ModRQC said:
Those things are still not so clear to me though - what stone works best with what kind of steel, and was it something that I've done, the stone, or the steel very specifically?....
Click to expand...
This is one of the reasons for a larger selection of stones. Some stones go better with some steels than others. It's a matter of personal experience.
 
inferno said:
also with regards to the gray vs white glass.

i think they use the the same grit in both but the gray ones have like 25% "polishing agent" in there. so its slower, but it now polishes.
there are small splotches of things in the gray stones that the whites dont have. it looks exactly like the naniwa superstones but i guess those are 50% polishing agent or so.
Click to expand...
That's an interesting observation. Maybe I'll try the Glass Gray 4k every now and then and compare it to the Glass White 4k and the Superstone 5k.
 
KingShapton said:
This is one of the reasons for a larger selection of stones. Some stones go better with some steels than others. It's a matter of personal experience.
Click to expand...

Well I won’t reduce down to three you know. I think 10-12 since I can already say that I have 10-12 stones that I just wouldn’t sell. Hence all the tests I’m doing these days and wanting to expand my use of finer stones a bit before anything else - most of mine are coarse and meds, and a couple of these I know I don’t need.
 
Prep with the Shi.Han tonight and it performed crazily well with the SP5K edge.

I understood my error when I judged the edge from cutting paper compared with the Konosuke and found it less fine.

The Kono has gone through a test where I had dulled it on the Rika’s side and sharpened it, then dulled it on the SP5K side and sharpened. The Kono had a pure SP5K edge, while the Shi.Han went through a progression involving the very toothy edge of the Ouka before getting to the SP5K. I hadn’t really think about that when comparing the edges, just thought the Shi.Han’s would have the finer edge being carbon.

Going to sharpen my Tanaka W#2 right now. Will dull it on the Rika, sharpen it, and finish it with the SP5K. Should result with a finer edge than the Shi.Han, possibly even the Kono now.
 
E1559E81-E70D-46F6-855A-02F26B76FBA4.jpeg


Worked as expected, but even the Rika primary edge « pollutes » the polishing done on the SP5K. Konosuke still has the tad finer edge.
 
I skipped to the end. So I'm sorry if this has already been mentioned. But if you are on a budget, and are looking for a fine jnat. Koppas are your friend.

I've gotten every jnat I have for around 100 dollars. Sometimes less sometimes more. One was a full sized medium stone. But for my finer stones I find koppas do just fine.
 
Well the only ones I found that seem to gather some respect here and are within price range I find interesting is those two:

https://www.aiandomknives.com/collections/sharpening/products/morihei-amakusa-natural-stone-type-30
https://www.aiandomknives.com/collections/sharpening/products/morihei-bisui-natural-stone-type-30
Sadly the vendor doesn't bother with telling the proximate grit range or any further details than the size. And I think the second one should read Binsui...

Another reason why I don't fret over Nats all that much - it's all a bit too much aleatory for me, and vendors rarely have information to make sense out of it.
 
ModRQC said:
Well the only ones I found that seem to gather some respect here and are within price range I find interesting is those two:

https://www.aiandomknives.com/collections/sharpening/products/morihei-amakusa-natural-stone-type-30
https://www.aiandomknives.com/collections/sharpening/products/morihei-bisui-natural-stone-type-30
Sadly the vendor doesn't bother with telling the proximate grit range or any further details than the size. And I think the second one should read Binsui...

Another reason why I don't fret over Nats all that much - it's all a bit too much aleatory for me, and vendors rarely have information to make sense out of it.
Click to expand...

These are coarse/med coarse stones, don't bother.

Bernal has Aiiwatani Koppas for <100 that should run 6k - 8k+

Edit: Jun Sei Honyama Koppa LV3 Hard LV3.5 Fine Honyama 783Grams 140x75x30mm

Here's one.
 
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Canada here... I could order with Bernal but will probably amount to pay more than I bargain for.

Anyways I've settled on just buying the NP3000 for now. It's the one that really draws me in. I'll buy me a Yoshi already instead of another fine stone.

Getting where I want for a really fine edge with using the SP5000 standalone. Not saying a higher grit wouldn't yield a finer edge still without removing the essential bite, but I don't see it in the choices I have at hand.

Perhaps jumping to SP8K and 12K as it was suggested - one day.
 
Well at least I now have some experience with next before last knife shop I can find in Canada.

I still resist buying anything with Knifewear. :p

Tosho had a nice price for the NP3000. And to just complete free shipping they had that perfect little add-on: felt deburring pad. In the end compared to any other NP3000 price around here, the deburring pad was free.

Edit: ah and one Yoshikane SKD on its way. @daveb will be happy.
 
ModRQC said:
Well at least I now have some experience with next before last knife shop I can find in Canada.

I still resist buying anything with Knifewear. :p

Tosho had a nice price for the NP3000. And to just complete free shipping they had that perfect little add-on: felt deburring pad. In the end compared to any other NP3000 price around here, the deburring pad was free.

Edit: ah and one Yoshikane SKD on its way. @daveb will be happy.
Click to expand...
another stone to consider is Nano Hone 3000, it really gives a nice contrast and a similar bite. splash and go and cheaper than NP 3000.
 
If the harm is already done, you might aswell buy them both, for the glory of scientific research!
 
Is there anyone here who can compare the Nano Hone 3000 with the Shapton Glass 3000 and Shapton Glass 4000 from their own experience?
 
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