please report back when you test the tomato its interesting
also at what grits did you sharpen ?
Kippington Deburring Video
- Thread starter Geller8
- Start date
Help Support Kitchen Knife Forums:
also at what grits did you sharpen ?
So I made a tomato bisque for the first time and it came out nicely. There wasn’t a whole lot of tomato cutting required, so I changed it up to move it closer to dicing tomatoes to roast them. I sharpened three knives with the Kippington finishing method: Takeshi Saji Aogami 2 gyuto, Tadafusa Aogami 2(I think) nakiri, and HSC magnacut santoku. All three were recently sharpened so I just went straight into using an aoto for a few strokes (large aoto from this link SOLD - 2×Hard Aono Aoto (Final Drops)). Overall, I would say I’m pleased would with the consistency of the edge throughout the length of the blade. All were able to cut into the skin of ripe tomatoes nicely and did not experience any issues going through the flesh. It’s not a magical fix for any prior issues I had, but it sure helped finish the blade off. Example of this is with the Saji. I feel the blade is a bit thick behind the edge, but I’m too scared to attempt to thin it an destroy the pattern. So while it still can cut, it’s not the nice feeling I want to experience.
Kippington
A small green parrot
You can modify the method till you get something you like - It's a surprisingly versatile deburring technique, once you understand what's going on at the edge.
I need to know this knife making thing you mentioned in passing earlier in the thread. Its going to drive me crazy, not knowing.
It’s not that I don’t believe you, I lack the fundamental understanding to be more creative. Or at least that’s how I see it. What’s your favorite material for understanding the edge?
The_Real_Self
Well-Known Member
Would this method work to deburr on a finer finishing grit after taking a knife straight off a Tormek grinding wheel at 220 grit?
The Tormek wheel is my standard tool for reprofiling and after I get done shaping the edge there's always a prominent and difficult to remove burr even after trying to minimize it with a couple light passes and increasing the angle slightly.
My goal is to simply use a micro-bevel to set the apex finish between 600-2000 and not polish the entire edge bevel (leaving 220 finish) as it adds little performance wise. I often spend 30-60 minutes on the Tormek reprofiling and want to spend as little time as possible to deburr and apex.
The Tormek wheel is my standard tool for reprofiling and after I get done shaping the edge there's always a prominent and difficult to remove burr even after trying to minimize it with a couple light passes and increasing the angle slightly.
My goal is to simply use a micro-bevel to set the apex finish between 600-2000 and not polish the entire edge bevel (leaving 220 finish) as it adds little performance wise. I often spend 30-60 minutes on the Tormek reprofiling and want to spend as little time as possible to deburr and apex.
Kippington
A small green parrot
I was gonna suggest this, but it seems you've already done it!
Doing it this way should make the burr smaller, then you can go ahead and remove it using any deburring method you want.
If the burr is small, you won't need to use much force to get rid of it - no matter which method you choose.
Knife making!
when you do the 90 degrees pass do you apply a lot of pressure ?Before recording, I made the burr as big as possible to make it easier for the camera to pick up.
If you wanna make your own phat burr, sharpen at a low angle with low grit and high pressure.
That's four questions!
1. when you are doing the high angle pass stropping close to 90 degree are you applying alot of pressure ?It depends on the thickness of the burr, (which in turn depends on how you sharpened the knife - see my reply to sansho above)
Generally speaking, you need light pressure, but bigger burrs need more.
2. when you are doing the edge leading after the high-angle pass are you applying a lot of pressure ? and what is the angle you are trying to hit ? the same sharpening angle or a little bit higher ?It should be higher than the sharpening angle. Same pressure as the 90 degree angle pass.
3. after you deburr using your method like you said it produces a burrless edge but less sharp, what do you do after the deburring in order to get the knife into the desired sharpness ?Resharpen lightly at your normal angles, edge leading strokes. It only takes a couple more passes, depending on pressure and grit.
4. does your method create a microbevel ?Kinda... yes. But I consider it more of a convex grind, which happens when you sharpen by hand anyway.
Hope this helps!
or very light pressure
I'd think very light. But try with high pressure.
Kippington
A small green parrot
Light pressure.
If it doesn't work, resharpen then try it with more.
You know what....
I'll post another video in a short while, in the hope it will clear both these questions up a bit.
Last edited:
Kippington
A small green parrot
@r0bz
This is a good starting point to learn how much pressure to use. As you improve your sharpening, you'll need less pressure than this - as if you had used thinner tape. (Use a coarse stone for thick tape)
@jwthaparc
This is one of the ways to use the technique, to protect a knife in the works.
Last edited:
Ah got it
Kippington
A small green parrot
It's kinda satisfying to see it, isn't it?
Extremely!It's kinda satisfying to see it, isn't it?
@Kippington
i have to update i used your deburring method today and I was amazed
after those 2 strokes the knife was burrless, I washed the stone before doing those strokes so I could see what happens and there was metal hair like in your vid fall after the 2 strokes
i have to update i used your deburring method today and I was amazed
after those 2 strokes the knife was burrless, I washed the stone before doing those strokes so I could see what happens and there was metal hair like in your vid fall after the 2 strokes
Kippington
A small green parrot
Last edited:
sumis
Senior Member
We should call em "sharpening pubes"
that's sounds a lot like how i test my edges …
.
i thought about it tho what would you do if you do the 2 strokes and it deburrs almost the whole knife but at some section of the knife a burr still remainsWe should call em "sharpening pubes"
But yeah, deburring isn't so difficult now, is it?
Probably need to get a new knife. That one’s clearly defective.
i am asking seriously would you do the 90 degrees once more or continue with edge-leading stropping strokes?
It depends on what you are after. At work, I rarely chase every little tiny nick until it is imperceptible. Because doing so means more thinning, more time, more material loss. And I am going to turn around and hand that knife over to people who will, bless their hearts, immediately start abusing them again. And I will have to sharpen it again in a week or two anyway. So no one will notice and it is a waste. If it mostly goes through paper towel it's good enough.
At home I rarely have a knife get to the point where the edge isn't nail flexing and I can't raise a clean burr with a single stroke on an 8k stone. I might only sharpen my home knives once every few years. And then only if they get a big chip or something. Otherwise they just don't accumulate little bits of damage from being used all day long like work knives do. And they don't bang the cutting board anywhere near the same amount of times. And I have a lot of then to rotate through and I'm only cooking for two a few meals per week. So I can touch them up with high grit natural pocket stones pretty much indefinitely. So when I do decide to rework their bevels I make sure the apex is perfect. Don't want to have to do it again for a few years.
These are the two most extreme ends of the spectrum. Your use case almost definitely falls somewhere in between. And you might even make different decisions about different knives and use cases. Do what makes sense to you. But if you do a deburring method and you don't like how it worked then you can go back to your finisher and do a few more edge leading strokes to reset it, try again. Especially when I was figuring out what I liked I would go back and forth between different methods of stropping and my finishing stone several times, testing in between on paper towel, cherry tomatoes etc. I still do this when I buy a new knife or want to try a new stone. I would say a knife's performance is governed 90% by the skill of the user. The remaining 10% is governed 90% by the geometry of the knife. The remaining 1% is 90% governed by the quality of the deburring. The remaining 0.1% is governed by steel type and heat treat. Working on your own knife skills, making sure your knife geometry is set right, and doing a decent job of deburring is what you have to do to have a knife that performs. In that order. How you get there is up to you.
That guy in the video (edit: by "guy in the video" I mean a different thread that robz started a about a YouTube video from a chef sharpening a cleaver)
might not do it exactly how anyone here recommends. And no one here recommends the same thing or does exactly the same thing as anyone else. That doesn't matter. What does matter is that he
1. Knows how to cut stuff up
2. he sharpens in a way that maintains decent knife geometry
3. He deburrs good enough.
That is all that matters.
Other than that
You do you for what works for you
Last edited:
Idk, just strop on some leather.
@Kippington deburring method worked great for me I am just asking
if you do his method and there is still a burr remaining at part of the knife what does he do .....
I can't speak for him but I bet he either ignores it if it doesn't bother him or drops back to the stones if it does.
I have recently started using this technique on my finishing stone, usually soft aoto -> aizu for most of my knives. I use a couple of light alternating ~80 degree strokes to weaken the burr, then edge leading strokes rip the burr off with great efficiency. Practically everything I use this on gets screaming sharp, and still retains a large amount of tooth. For harder steels like TF steels, usually this process twice will remove the burr completely, while softer steels deburr completely with only a few strokes.
If it were me, I would do a few edge leading strokes, check results. Repeat if necessary.
This is a fantastic post
@Kippington
i sharpened a few days back raised a big burr and went on with your method did the 90 degree stroke with feather light pressure and then the high angle pass, some of the burr got off the knife but a big part of it stayed i had to continue with edge leading strokes for some time to get rid of the burr completely
my question is do you use feather-light pressure "only the weight of the knife " when doing the 90 degree and high angle pass or you use more than that ?
i also found out that with a smaller burr the same pressure i used was enough to deburr the knife but with this bigger burr it wasn't enough
