ModRQC
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How to remove a sharpening stone from a plastic base
Primary inspiration - thanks @Michi. I removed both a Suehiro (Cerax/Ouka) flat white plastic base and a Rika wooden base this way. Not all ovens are the same which is the most uncertain part of the whole procedure. I'd say just some gradual low oven heat - 5 minutes and prying and put back raising the temp 25*F - until the corners lift easily then put back for another 5-10 mins at that temp and then finish the job.
My hidden bake element electric oven needs about 200-225*F to be efficient, but I usually start with the Keep Warm function (170*F) and see what happens after 5-10 mins.
How To Naniwa Chosera Base removal
Never did that, nor had a Chosera base to remove. Just follow @da_mich* instructions since they're obviously pretty much fail safe and no heat. And I'd say you can confidently do something of the same with the Kitayama or Suehiros if unsure about what I'll post next. I'm unsure myself if it's glue or epoxy still for the Kit but I'll keep with my method since it's so much simpler and fast than having to go to a clamp you might not have. I also don't think there's much need of sawing off the ends of the base as long as it's not restricting access to wedge a knife there.
Kitayama Base Removal
Ingredients:
- Oven
- Pair of oven mits - there's no not wearing them at any point but when the stone is still in the oven
- Beater knife - preferably 7-8" and full tang design. I really wouldn't use say a Victo Fibrox for example.
Got scratches but no effect on the edge so much, would still cut paper readily...
- Cork mat (or something a bit soft and sticky you can prop the base vertically on so that it doesn't move or slip AT ALL when you apply downward/slightly lateral pressure)
- Pan/baking sheet (facultative) (I'm pretty sure you can put the thing in the oven directly, and pretty sure no glue/epoxy will seep down into your oven, but a cheap baking sheet is like 5$ so who'd rather not use one IDK?)
- Some Balls & Logic - it's really easy and not dangerous, if you ask me. Right oven temp is probably the most unpredictable part, so don't give up until hitting 250*F which from my experience is still safe for the stone.
Skills work:
- Preheat oven to lowest temp you've got.
- Let the stone sit there for 5-10 mins, then check and raise temp if nothing much happens.
- When corners are clearly showing a wider gap, prop the base vertically onto the cork mat, slowly insert/wedge the knife at the one up end in between the stone and base (duh!). Firmly wedge/pry down and when it stops it's enough don't force it down further. Rather go at it from the other end now.
*The TRICK is to: use the palm of one hand to push at the tip on one side, palm of the other hand to push at the heel on the other side; use the thumbs to secure/press the base downward so that it's steady; use the remaining fingers to cove the stone side (NOT the base side) so that if you go through in the end somewhat more brusquely, the base will fall off, and the stone will still be securely standing up in your grip, NOT the other way around)
*If you can't go completely through with firm but relaxed strength when reaching the center from either end, put back in the oven for a couple more minutes, try again. Rise temp another 25*F if there's still room until 250 if the second attempt still doesn't work well. Or keep the same temperature and be patient through a couple more trials. I prefer quickly raising temp to be done within a few trials than subjecting the stone to heat and room temperature cycle like 20 times in a row to save 25-50*F of heating. YB&LMV...
- Use very coarse sandpaper dry and just rub at the glue/epoxy patch left on the stone so that the bulk is taken out. Then do a complete surface rub with a larger piece of slightly finer coarse sandpaper - might help to buy some in 9x11 size with soft backing and wet it a bit so that it sticks to a flat surface like countertop and you can rub the stone on it with circular motion. Atoma/proper dressing stone/Nagura can do the rest of a finishing/resurfacing job there, but when the glue is all out and the stone flat there, I use a permanent marker to mark it as underside and never care about resurfacing THAT anymore. Besides getting the oven temp right, getting the patch of glue out is the real, real, real PITA.
*I don't know if the Kitayama is soft epoxy or glue. Looked about the same as Suehiro reported to be glue; smelled noticeably stronger though. Was much harder to separate (needing the knife), but probably mostly because the Kit wooden base is a full flat surface, compared to the Rika wooden base being basically like a waffle, with the gluing just happening at the ridges.
Be well!
Primary inspiration - thanks @Michi. I removed both a Suehiro (Cerax/Ouka) flat white plastic base and a Rika wooden base this way. Not all ovens are the same which is the most uncertain part of the whole procedure. I'd say just some gradual low oven heat - 5 minutes and prying and put back raising the temp 25*F - until the corners lift easily then put back for another 5-10 mins at that temp and then finish the job.
My hidden bake element electric oven needs about 200-225*F to be efficient, but I usually start with the Keep Warm function (170*F) and see what happens after 5-10 mins.
How To Naniwa Chosera Base removal
Never did that, nor had a Chosera base to remove. Just follow @da_mich* instructions since they're obviously pretty much fail safe and no heat. And I'd say you can confidently do something of the same with the Kitayama or Suehiros if unsure about what I'll post next. I'm unsure myself if it's glue or epoxy still for the Kit but I'll keep with my method since it's so much simpler and fast than having to go to a clamp you might not have. I also don't think there's much need of sawing off the ends of the base as long as it's not restricting access to wedge a knife there.
Kitayama Base Removal
Ingredients:
- Oven
- Pair of oven mits - there's no not wearing them at any point but when the stone is still in the oven
- Beater knife - preferably 7-8" and full tang design. I really wouldn't use say a Victo Fibrox for example.


Got scratches but no effect on the edge so much, would still cut paper readily...
- Cork mat (or something a bit soft and sticky you can prop the base vertically on so that it doesn't move or slip AT ALL when you apply downward/slightly lateral pressure)
- Pan/baking sheet (facultative) (I'm pretty sure you can put the thing in the oven directly, and pretty sure no glue/epoxy will seep down into your oven, but a cheap baking sheet is like 5$ so who'd rather not use one IDK?)
- Some Balls & Logic - it's really easy and not dangerous, if you ask me. Right oven temp is probably the most unpredictable part, so don't give up until hitting 250*F which from my experience is still safe for the stone.
Skills work:
- Preheat oven to lowest temp you've got.
- Let the stone sit there for 5-10 mins, then check and raise temp if nothing much happens.
- When corners are clearly showing a wider gap, prop the base vertically onto the cork mat, slowly insert/wedge the knife at the one up end in between the stone and base (duh!). Firmly wedge/pry down and when it stops it's enough don't force it down further. Rather go at it from the other end now.
*The TRICK is to: use the palm of one hand to push at the tip on one side, palm of the other hand to push at the heel on the other side; use the thumbs to secure/press the base downward so that it's steady; use the remaining fingers to cove the stone side (NOT the base side) so that if you go through in the end somewhat more brusquely, the base will fall off, and the stone will still be securely standing up in your grip, NOT the other way around)
*If you can't go completely through with firm but relaxed strength when reaching the center from either end, put back in the oven for a couple more minutes, try again. Rise temp another 25*F if there's still room until 250 if the second attempt still doesn't work well. Or keep the same temperature and be patient through a couple more trials. I prefer quickly raising temp to be done within a few trials than subjecting the stone to heat and room temperature cycle like 20 times in a row to save 25-50*F of heating. YB&LMV...
- Use very coarse sandpaper dry and just rub at the glue/epoxy patch left on the stone so that the bulk is taken out. Then do a complete surface rub with a larger piece of slightly finer coarse sandpaper - might help to buy some in 9x11 size with soft backing and wet it a bit so that it sticks to a flat surface like countertop and you can rub the stone on it with circular motion. Atoma/proper dressing stone/Nagura can do the rest of a finishing/resurfacing job there, but when the glue is all out and the stone flat there, I use a permanent marker to mark it as underside and never care about resurfacing THAT anymore. Besides getting the oven temp right, getting the patch of glue out is the real, real, real PITA.
*I don't know if the Kitayama is soft epoxy or glue. Looked about the same as Suehiro reported to be glue; smelled noticeably stronger though. Was much harder to separate (needing the knife), but probably mostly because the Kit wooden base is a full flat surface, compared to the Rika wooden base being basically like a waffle, with the gluing just happening at the ridges.
Be well!
