Kitchen Knife Glossary

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I didn't search this whole thread, so maybe it's been suggested already, but I would suggest adding a definition for workhorse, which, while a somewhat subjective term, does get used a lot on the forum and may be confusing to new users.
 
What does it mean for a yanagiba to be "opened"? I tried searching around and cant find any references apart from a small handful of "OMG ITS WAY TOO HARD TO DO YOURSELF" posts but no one actually says what it is.
 
You made some good points .I did a little research on this topic.Thanks for taking the time to discuss this, I feel strongly about it and love learning more on this topic.

:):):):):):spin chair::spin chair:
 
I think your definition of sun may be incorrect. One sun is just over 3 centimetres not milimetres (ie decimal point error in the definitions)
 
found this great list of Japanese knife terminology translated!

Ago - Japanese term for the knife chin - G on the Diagram, the corner spot of the blade heel - Hamato - F on the Diagram.
Awase - Generic Japanese term for clad knives. Softer layer Jigane is clad over hard steel core Hagane. There are three types of awase: San-Mai, Warikomi and Ni-Mai.
BA - Also Ha. Japanese term for knife blade.
Bocho - Japanese term for knife, however bocho isn't used by itself, as usual prefixed with particular knife type, e.g. nakiri bocho. See also Hocho.
E - Japanese term for knife handle.
Emoto - In Japanese means neck - K on the Diagram. Refers to the narrow section of the blade between the blade heel and the handle or machi if it is present, L on the Diagram.
Hado - Japanese term for the cutting edge.
Hamato - Japanese term for the knife heel, the last few centimeters of the edge next to the handle, F on the Diagram.
Hamon - Typically wavy line, formed on Mizu-Honyaki knives, due to differential tampering.
Hamo No Honekiri - The slicing process of the Hamo(pike conger), which has a lot of small bones, so removal is not really an option. Instead incisions are made every 1.25mm, or less, to cut bones into small pieces, thus softening up the flesh. Usually performed with a dedicated knife - Hamokiri.
Hagane - Inner layer of hard steel forming cutting edge of the blade, supported by outer layer of soft - Jigane in Japanese knives.
Hirazukuri - Sashimi slicing technique, the knife is held perpendicular to the fish and pulled back at approximately 45° angle.
Hocho - Japanese term for the kitchen knife. See also Bocho.
Honba-Tsuke - The process of grinding the real edge on the knife shipped from the manufacturer without one. Aritsugu knives for example are shipped like that. Read Aritsugu 300mm Honkasumi Yanagiba Knife Review. See also Ura-Oshi.
Hon-Kasumi - Highest grade Kasumi. See also Aritsugu Hon-Kasumi Yanagi Review.
Honyaki - Translates as "true-forged" from Japanese. Unlike San-Mai knives that have soft layer over harder core Honyaki knives are constructed of single piece of metal, as usual very hard, high-carbon steel. Because of this they are difficult to forge thus their high price. Honyakis have higher hardness and edge holding compared to other types. Because the steel is so hard sharpening this type of knife is rather challenging. Also because of high hardness honyakis are more prone to breaking, chipping and cracking. On the positive side, they can be sharpened to incredibly thin and sharp edges that will hold very long time and cutting performance will be very high. Read Watanabe 270mm Honyaki Gyuto Review.
Hawatari - Japanese term for blade length, A on the Diagram.
Ishime - Roughly translates into Rock Surface. A type of rustic finish, similar to Kuro Uchi, but rougher, with more texture. Very rare in kitchen knives. Moritaka started using it in some of his knives.
Jigane - Soft, outer layer of steel supporting inner hard core - Hagane of the knife.
Kaeri - Japanese term for Burr.
Kakumaki - Japanese term for a bolster collar or ferule. Traditionally made of water buffalo horn, although both, more expensive and cheaper materials can be used, I on the Diagram. This word isn't used often, Katsura or Kazura is more popular.
Kanoko-giri - Similar to Matsukasa-Giri. Usually done with Yanagiba. Cuts are made with the knife perpendicular to the board.
Kasumi - In Japanese kasumi means mist. Refers to rather hazy looks of softer jigane next to hard, shiny hagane. Present on Ni-Mai style forged knives, i.e. single beveled Awase knives. See also San-Mai.
Katsura ( 桂 ) - Also Kazura. More widely used term for the ferrule or Kakumaki. I on the Diagram.
Kazura ( 桂 ) - See Katsura.
Kirenaga - Japanese term used to describe knife edge holding ability. In other words, how long it stays sharp. Obviously, higher kirenaga is better.
Kiri - Cutter in Japanese, apparently derived from the word cut. Nakiri, Udon-Kiri, etc.
Kiriba - Literally means blade path - D on the Diagram. Refers to the inclined surface that starts at Shinogi(B on the Diagram), including the cutting edge.
Kissaki - Japanese term for blade tip - N on the Diagram.
Kitaeji - Multi Layer Jigane. Often referred as damascus. See Shigefusa Kitaeji Gyuto Knife review and Shigefusa Kitaeji Miroshi Deba Kitchen Knife review for photos and detailed information.
Koba - Japanese term for secondary bevel.
Kuro-Uchi - Type of rustic finish on Japanese knives. Blades aren't finished except for the edge, blue blackish color. See Watanabe Nakiri Knife Review and Takeda Cleaver Review.
Machi - Narrow section of metal between the notch at the end of the neck of the blade - L on the Diagram, emoto(K on the Diagram) and the handle, approximately 5mm long. Found on many Japanese knives, never on western knives. In general when the knife has machi, the specified blade length includes all of the knife blade up to the machi notch, not just from the blade Ago(chin, G on the Diagram to the tip. Although, some makers do not include machi in blade length. In the end, it's better to ask if unsure.
Matsukasa-giri - Literally Pine Cone Cut. Usually done with Yanagiba. Fish sliceis cut with angle to create lattice pattern.
Mine - Also mune. Japanese term for blade spine - M on the Diagram.
Mizu-Honyaki - Refers to differentially tampered Honyaki knives. Blade spine is covered with mud, which is allowed to dry, then the whole thing is heated to the desired temperature and quenched in water. Spine is softer and springy, giving the blade certain degree of flexibility.
Mokume - Japanese term for wood grain pattern Jigane. That includes not only jigane, but various parts of the knife, butt cap, bolster, etc. See Aritsugu Wood Pattern Yanagiba review.
Mune - Also mine. Japanese term for blade spine - M on the Diagram.
Nakago - Japanese term for knife tang, portion of the metal to which the handle is attached.
Naruto-giri - Literally Spiral Tide Cut. Usually done with Yanagiba. Mainly used for squid. With the knife perpendicular to the board, first, parallel cuts are made onthe square piece of squid, then the piece is turned over, rotated 90° and rolled, well you can insert Shiso leaves in there.
Ni-Mai - Awase type forging for the single bevel knife. Cladding is applied only on the cutting edge side of the blade, Ura(back side) is hagane, or hard steel. See Ni-Mai on the diagram
Omote - Edge side of the single bevel knife. See also Ura, Urasuki.
San-mai - Technique of welded steel that laminates the hard core of the blade with softer outer layers. Basically, this is Awase on both sides of the Hagane, but not over the spine. See San-Mai on the diagram. Occasionally Warikomi is used interchangeably with San-Mai, but it is a different type of awase(cladding) as you can see from the diagram.
Saya - Wooden sheath, or scabbard for the knife. As usual, identical wood is used for the handle and saya.
Shiki-Bocho - Imperial court or Shinto Shrine ceremony when the fish is filleted without touching it with hands, using special knife called Gishiki-Bocho and silver chopsticks. Shiki-bocho has been performed in some form or other probably since the late Nara period, and certainly since the early Muromachi period. Thus it would be accurate to say that the knife has likely been in use for between 600 and 1000 years.
Shinogi - Japanese term for the ridge line(B on the Diagram) formed by the flat portion of the blade and the blade path - Kiriba - D on the Diagram.
Shiso - In western world it's called Japanese Basil. Shiso leaves have distinc, delicate flavor. Used in may dishes, including sashimi, sala, omlet, etc.
Sogizukuri - Sashimi slicing technique, the knife is held at around 40° angle from fish and pulled back.
Suminagashi - Description for damascus pattern knife. See Kobayashi Suminagashi Nakiri Hocho Review.
Ura - Back side of the single bevel knife. Typically, on Japanese single bevel knives Ura is concave, not flat, and referred as Urasuki. See also Omote.
Ura-Oshi - Japanese term for flattening the back side of the single bevel urasuki type edge.
Urasuki - Concaved surface on the back side of the single beveled Japanese knives. Helps to reduce the drag during cutting. The last edge on the Knife Edge Grind Type Diagram shows concave back of urasuki edge grind type.
Usuizukuri - Sashimi slicing technique, same as Sogizukuri, except the slices are ~1mm thick, translucent slices.
Utsu - Cutting method, combination of push cutting, vertically down and slight forward motion. Main cutting technique with Usuba and Nakiri.
Warikomi - Type of cladding, basically Awase with Jigane applied on the sides and spine of the Hagane, see Warikomi on the diagram. Occasionally Warikomi is used interchangeably with San-Mai, but it is a different type of awase(cladding) as you can see from the diagram.
Yaeizukuri - Sashimi slicing technique, same as Hirazukuri, used mostly on tougher skinned or textured fish. Slices are narrower Yae in Japanese refers to something multilayer or double.
 
Thank you very much to find out glossary. Probably, we are getting benefited in the future. Although some coding show error, but totally appreciated.
 
Recently, I have bought Becker BK2 knife. Its blade length is 5.25" inches. I bought it because it has a nice feature of kydex sheath.
 
Updated - 8/02/11

This is a glossary of kitchen knife related terms. It is intended to help newer members of the forum follow along with the discussions. There are many terms used here that don't connotate their standard definitions, or overlap from other industries and hobbies. It is not by any means an exhaustive list of every specific term used on this forum, especially culinary, Japanese, and metallurgical terms, because those definitions are easily found elsewhere, or are beyond the scope of this site(zknives.com has a great list of Japanese cutlery terms, Steel Composition, and Japanese knife types.)

So if you find yourself wondering what a word means, look it up here! If it's not here, it might be a brand name, or it might still need to be put here.


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K(as in 1k, 2k, 15k) – 'Thousand Grit'; so a “1k stone” is “1,000 Grit Stone”

ABS – American Bladesmith Society
AS – Aogami Super
BBW – Belgian Blue Whetstone
BS – Bladesmith, or Blue Steel
BC – Boron Carbide
BOH – Back of House
BWJ – Blue Way Japan
CKTG – Chef Knives To Go
CrO – Chromium Oxide
CS – Culinary School
DT – Devin Thomas
ECG – East Coast Gathering
EE – Epicurean Edge
EP – Edge Pro
FF – Fit and Finish
FFG – Full Flat Grind
FOH – Front of House
GAW – Giveaway
GS – GlassStone
HA – Hand American
HAD – Hone Acquisition Disorder
HF – Harbor Freight and Tool
HHT – Hanging Hair Test
HRC – Rockwell Hardness 'C'
HT – Heat Treat
JCK – Japanese Chefs Knife
JKI – Japanese Knife Imports
JKS – Japanese Knife Sharpening
Jnat – Japanese Natural Stone
JWW – Japan Wood Worker
KAD – Knife Acquisition Disorder
KKF – Kitchen Knife Forums
KU – Kuro-Uchi
LV – Lee Valley Tool
MC – Murray Carter
MCD – Monocrystalline Diamond
MS – ABS Master Smith
OOTB – Out of the Box
PCD – Polycrystalline Diamond
PM – Private Message
QC – Quality Control
SLT – Sur La Table
URH – Ultra Rock Hard
WE – Wicked Edge
WIP – Work In Progress
WS – Either White Steel, or William-Sonoma


[aname=3fingertest]3 Finger Test[/aname] – An edge test(highly promoted by Murray Carter), in which the index, middle, and ring fingers of one hand are placed, pads first, perpendicular to the cutting edge and, with slight pressure, rubbed across the edge in short bursts. This test requires lots of practice to provide great insight. It works by alerting the body's response to the sensation of the edge biting into the first few layers of skin, and has been reported to fail to distinguish between dull edges, and sharp ones that are highly polished. Cut fingers are almost guaranteed during the relatively long learning curve for this test. It is not advisable for anyone to try to teach themselves this test without the aid of a teacher or DVD.

[aname=accordion]Accordion[/aname] – A piece of vegetable that has been chopped, but left stuck together by a small section of food that went uncut along the bottom. This is almost always undesirable, and often frustrating. It can be prevented by repairing a damaged edge or using proper cutting techniques that compliment the way the knife was designed to be used.

[aname=aggressive]Aggressive[/aname] – The quality of cutting steel quickly and with little effort

[aname=anorexic]Anorexic[/aname] – Slang for a very thin knife, perhaps too thin.

[aname=aogami]Aogami[/aname] – Blue #1 Steel, made by Hitachi. For more information on steels and their makeup, see the composition chart at zknives.

[aname=aoniko]Aoniko[/aname] – Blue #2 Steel, made by Hitachi. For more information on steels and their makeup, see the composition chart at zknives.

[aname=arkansasstone]Arkansas Stone[/aname] – A naturally occurring, dense stone that hails from Arkansas state, which can be lubricated with pretty much anything—water, oil, even some detergents. They are not very aggressive, and they don't have varying abrasive particle sizes. The finer Arkansas Stones are distinguished by greater density, rather than smaller particles. Due to their slow cutting speed, they are often overlooked for harder knives, because it prolongs the sharpening process.

[aname=backofhouse]Back of House[/aname] – The areas of a restaurant customers are not allowed to be in, usually the kitchen.

[aname=backbevel]Back Bevel[/aname] – The bevel that is behind(closer to the spine than) the cutting edge. Should not be used to denote a bevel on the backside of a single bevel blade.

[aname=barstock]Bar Stock [/aname]– Purified steel sold in rectangular shape, sometimes very thick(which is usually used by Bladesmiths to be forged into a knife), or thin(either to layer into a Damascus bar, or cut and ground directly into a knife through stock removal).


There is a problem with the tags and it is a bit difficult to read. Could somebody fix it?
 
This was an awesome read!

Liked that you did some general remarks with the definition, the whole things read less like a glossary than a guide to understanding knives.

Many many praises
 
It sounds like : there is a problem with the tags and they could probably fix this, but its kinda working as it is.

Myself am just happy for the existence of this post and Eamon Burkes taking the time.
 
It sounds like : there is a problem with the tags and they could probably fix this, but its kinda working as it is.

Myself am just happy for the existence of this post and Eamon Burkes taking the time.


I think that the tags are not working right. This tags are programming code and the users should not see them.
I am also happy for the existence of this post. But my happiness and the correctness of the code used in the post are different things.
 
Sigh...

Then we’ll at least be happy that the problematic tags aren’t interfering with your or others’ enjoyment of the post.

Meanwhile if you could just read a few of the posts that came after the OP about this precise problem.
 
Sigh...

Then we’ll at least be happy that the problematic tags aren’t interfering with your or others’ enjoyment of the post.

Meanwhile if you could just read a few of the posts that came after the OP about this precise problem.


I saw a problem with the tags and I commented it. That's all.
You seems ofended about it.
 
Just slightly annoyed as the problem was reported and the OFC couldn’t do anything about it... this a long time ago.

But I understand it did offset me at first. Hence why I went to read some of the former answers of that time.

Mostly... perfect post. Let’s keep it zen.
 
Just slightly annoyed as the problem was reported and the OFC couldn’t do anything about it... this a long time ago.

But I understand it did offset me at first. Hence why I went to read some of the former answers of that time.

Mostly... perfect post. Let’s keep it zen.

I came to this thread looking for some terms, I read them, posted my message and left the thread, so I did not read those messages.
 
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