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ethompson said:
I'm aware. Even for Kasumi the price is well below what I'd expect. For a US buyer excluding VAT it was $479. I haven't heard of a price that low for Shigefusa yanagiba in a long, long time. That is roughly retail in Japan for a 180 or 210 kasumi yanagiba if you can find one. I wouldn't be surprised if that was roughly their cost buying that at Shigefusa in Japan.
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Great price, also the nakiri he sold was a very good price, considering the sales VAT rate of 25% in Denmark, plus import and VAT duties which vary from goods to goods but land between 20-30% of the purchase price+shipping costs. One negates the other, but even so.....
 
Anybody looking for a deal on a 2nd-quality suji reach out to Britton on IG. I have a custom gyuto from him that I love. I’d jump on this except I really have no use (or space) for anything that long.

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Delat said:
Anybody looking for a deal on a 2nd-quality suji reach out to Britton on IG. I have a custom gyuto from him that I love. I’d jump on this except I really have no use (or space) for anything that long.

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Pardon my lack of knowledge, but what is the "shim"? Is it the metal in the Damascus pattern that is near the cutting edge? I can see the silver line (assume that's nickel) gets close in some parts. And if it's a Damascus knife why does that matter, does that affect your edge? Or is it just looks? That the line will be in the blade as opposed to the "normal" look of a clean edge then goes into the Damascus pattern? Thanks
 
Skylar303 said:
Pardon my lack of knowledge, but what is the "shim"? Is it the metal in the Damascus pattern that is near the cutting edge? I can see the silver line (assume that's nickel) gets close in some parts. And if it's a Damascus knife why does that matter, does that affect your edge? Or is it just looks? That the line will be in the blade as opposed to the "normal" look of a clean edge then goes into the Damascus pattern? Thanks
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In this context a shim is just a thin layer - nickel is used to prevent carbon migration from the core steel to the outer layer. This particular construction is more typically called “go mai” rather than damascus as it’s 5 layers vs san mai’s 3 layers.

Usually I like to see any cladding at least a few mm above the edge so you know the core is properly centered and exposed. Looks like he might’ve forged the center just a touch thinner than he wanted, resulting in the cladding getting quite close to the edge. As long as the cladding doesn’t actually wrap and the core is centered it shouldn’t be an issue though.
 
Delat said:
In this context a shim is just a thin layer - nickel is used to prevent carbon migration from the core steel to the outer layer. This particular construction is more typically called “go mai” rather than damascus as it’s 5 layers vs san mai’s 3 layers.

Usually I like to see any cladding at least a few mm above the edge so you know the core is properly centered and exposed. Looks like he might’ve forged the center just a touch thinner than he wanted, resulting in the cladding getting quite close to the edge. As long as the cladding doesn’t actually wrap and the core is centered it shouldn’t be an issue though.
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Thanks for the great explanation. Googling "shim in knives" didn't yield good results. "A shim is woo"... Yeah no... 🤣

In the event of the cladding wrapping. Would it still be a good knife after getting to the core? Just a lot shorter because of the sharpening/thinning to get there? Not taking into account centering, just if it would be functional.
 
Skylar303 said:
Thanks for the great explanation. Googling "shim in knives" didn't yield good results. "A shim is woo"... Yeah no... 🤣

In the event of the cladding wrapping. Would it still be a good knife after getting to the core? Just a lot shorter because of the sharpening/thinning to get there? Not taking into account centering, just if it would be functional.
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I don’t have any practical experience to answer your question. My personal take would be that unless it was a collector’s item then it probably wouldn’t be worth the cost and effort due to the unknowns unless you really got it for a song and wanted a project knife.

In this case though with a known maker saying the cladding is low but doesn’t wrap, I’d take him at his word.
 
Some nice looking stuff but I don’t know why he seems to have basically stopped doing bigger knives. Seems to be these petties most of the time now. Love the look of the integrals and seem very comfy but almost never in dimensions I’d be interested in. Any ideas why he’s stopped doing the bigger ones? Am I wrong that I remember he used to do customs too back in the day?
 
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PeterL said:
Some nice looking stuff but I don’t know why he seems to have basically stopped doing bigger knives. Seems to be these petties most of the time now. Love the look of the integrals and seem very comfy but almost never in dimensions I’d be interested in. Any ideas why he’s stopped doing the bigger ones? Am I wrong that I remember he used to do customs too back in the day?
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Judging by this photo probably because he can't be arsed.
 
PeterL said:
Some nice looking stuff but I don’t know why he seems to have basically stopped doing bigger knives. Seems to be these petties most of the time now. Love the look of the integrals and seem very comfy but almost never in dimensions I’d be interested in. Any ideas why he’s stopped doing the bigger ones? Am I wrong that I remember he used to do customs too back in the day?
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Probably easiest to just message him on Instagram and ask, honestly. I ordered a knife from him back in 2017ish(?) that was a 270 gyuto. I guess it was a custom technically, but I didn't ask for anything specific aside from the length so he kinda just did what he wanted. If I recall correctly, he used to make tools and chisels, before knives so maybe he's just more comfortable or has better efficiency making smaller blades.
 
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