Knives....and WIP's...

[Jaeger]

Hy there,

In this thread i wanna share my WIP's and knives i will make and made.

The last one I've finished is a small European style chefknife in handy dimensions.
155mm(sharp) by 45mm with an 125mm handle out of stabilised Lacewood.
Steel ist 1095 ~60HRC.
Its fully tapert from 3mm down to about 0,3mm at the tip.

I ground the blade slightly convex from the spine to the edge down to zero and gave it a 34° cutting edge.

I finished the blade lengthwise to 1000grit and then crosswise with 800grit scotchbrite.

Greets Fabian ✌

 

[Matus]

Very nice work Fabian.

 

[Jaeger]

Very nice work Fabian.

Thank you Matus

 

[Jaeger]

Hy there,

I wanna show you an older project.
A single bevel Gyuto out of 52100 (1.2067) @60HRC with an s-grind on the outside. Length 200mm(sharp) by 50mm and 4mm at the spine, with 135mm frame handle (stabilized Amboyna Burl/black G10).

It was done so far but I'm not happy with the performance. It's a bit to thick on the edge so I thinn it more out and I wanna make a slightly ura on the inside because friction.

It's on my workbench right now and I will bring up the performance so it will become my daily workhorse.

I've never done a single bevel before and just started in learning by doing right?

Why a single bevel Gyuto? I think there some pro's and cons to a single bevel. The cutting performance and quality can be much higher than a double bevel (pro) but it's not easy to work with when you have no experience with it (con). But once you can handle it you enjoy it i guess. I really like it and I wanna go deeper in this so let's see how it came out.

Here are some shots before I bring it back to the grinder.

Greets Fabian ✌

 

[tostadas]

Hy there,

I wanna show you an older project.
A single bevel Gyuto out of 52100 (1.2067) @62HRC with an s-grind on the outside. Length 200mm(sharp) by 50mm and 4mm at the spine, with 135mm frame handle (stabilized Amboyna Burl/black G10).

It was done so far but I'm not happy with the performance. It's a bit to thick on the edge so I thinn it more out and I wanna make a slightly ura on the inside because friction.

It's on my workbench right now and I will bring up the performance so it will become my daily workhorse.

I've never done a single bevel before and just started in learning by doing right?

Why a single bevel Gyuto? I think there some pro's and cons to a single bevel. The cutting performance and quality can be much higher than a double bevel (pro) but it's not easy to work with when you have no experience with it (con). But once you can handle it you enjoy it i guess. I really like it and I wanna go deeper in this so let's see how it came out.

Here are some shots before I bring it back to the grinder.

View attachment 151627 View attachment 151628

Greets Fabian ✌

I like the handle design. Is it hidden tang, or full tang with spacers between the scales?

 

[Jaeger]

Thanks.
It's a frame build. Hiddentang, between scales and a G10 frame around the tang. Secured with stainless hidden pins. I like it more than drilling in blocks and fit the tang in.

 

[tostadas]

Thanks.
It's a frame build. Hiddentang, between scales and a G10 frame around the tang. Secured with stainless hidden pins. I like it more than drilling in blocks and fit the tang in.

Thanks for the info. I was considering doing something similar, but with a bolster piece to match the "frame". I like the execution of your version though.

 

[Jaeger]

Sounds good too

 

[Jaeger]

Meanwhile in the workshop...
I ground the edge down to zero and start refinishing the hollow. It won't be polished, ill give it a satin finish at the end. After that I'll start the Ura on the opposite side.

Cheers Fabian

 

[Jaeger]

Hello there,

The previous project have to wait because i have another, small chef in the works, So i decided to finish this first...

The blade is nearly finished so I start working on the handle today. It's always a good vacation day when the kids are in school and/or kindergarden so there is a bit workshop time for me ...

On this handle i decided to go a different way.... Let the pictures speak for itself

Cheers Fabian

 

[Matt Jacobs]

that handle is going to be amazing.

 

[Jaeger]

Thank you we'll see how it came out when I'm done

 

[Jaeger]

Hy there,

I'm done so far. I'm pretty happy how the handle came out "Coffin-Style"

It's walnut with chestnut

Blade is 1095. 165mm(150 sharp), 42mm high, handle is 130mm and 111g.

I struggle a bit with the s grind! It's cool on Damascus blades because it's "invisible" but on normal blades it destroyes the look imho!

It was not possible for me to get the lines more symmetrical to the edge for me, it has to be perfect! And this one isn't! It's okay because it's for our kitchen but I don't know if I will do this again.... we'll see....

I try to make some better pictures, don't worry these are just some snapshots...

Cheers Fabian

 

[Jaeger]

I'm not really talented in making good pictures i have to get a better setup...

 

[Jaeger]

New stuff arrived
Niolox Stainless steel
Never worked with stainless so these are my first steps.

Cheers Fabian

 

[Jaeger]

That's the plan ....

 

[Jaeger]

Let's go with this one.
Today i started grinding the rough profile out.
Tomorrow I'll grind the bevels roughly in and send it out to the heat treatment service on Wednesday because they do heat treatment only on Friday so I have to be quick and hopefully get it back next week...
That's the plan...

 

[Jaeger]

Made some progress today.
Breaking the 45's and set up the bevel about 1/3 the height of the blade at about 7°.
I'll send it out tomorrow for the heat treatment.

 

[Jaeger]

New stuff arrived today
Maple, Walnut aaaannnnd.... Maple...

 

[Jaeger]

Because i have to wait for the blade coming back from heat treating, i made myself a little attachment for the belt grinder. I have no rotary platen but I wanna do a better and more reliable convex grind on my kitchen knives so I made a "soft platen" out of thick rubber stripes. I glued two of them together with leather glue and added a graphite tape on top so the band won't "melt" the rubber and it can glide over the platen.
It doesn't look that sexy, i know but that's not the point

Cheers Fabian

 

[Jaeger]

Slowly but surely....i started bringing up the main bevels. I bring them up and change the angle with every period. So I get a nice consistent taper and a decent convex. When I'm done with it i go over to the rubber plate and clean all the edges together.
It took time doing it that way but that's okay for me. Btw the 36 grit 3M cubitron is amazing

At the last picture you can see where the water stands. That's the edge where the angle changes.

Greets Fabian ✌

 

[Andrei]

Because i have to wait for the blade coming back from heat treating, i made myself a little attachment for the belt grinder. I have no rotary platen but I wanna do a better and more reliable convex grind on my kitchen knives so I made a "soft platen" out of thick rubber stripes. I glued two of them together with leather glue and added a graphite tape on top so the band won't "melt" the rubber and it can glide over the platen.
It doesn't look that sexy, i know but that's not the point
View attachment 164019 View attachment 164020
Cheers Fabian

This is a great idea!!!
Does the rubber get hot?

 

[Jaeger]

This is a great idea!!!
Does the rubber get hot?

I didn't test it yet ... But I glued a graphite tape on top wich helps to reduce the friction. I'm sure it will get some temperature but I think it's not enough to melt the rubber.
I think next week I'm done with the main grind and test the rubber plate out i will tell you how it works after that

 

[Jaeger]

@Andrei the rubber plate works pretty well so far. I blended the edges in and sand it up to 100 grit by hand. Next step is going into finer grits up to 600 or 1000, i don't know.... It's a pretty tough steel so it's hard to handsand the whole thing
Things are going slowly but that's okay for me

Greets Fabian

 

[Andrei]

Have you tried using diamond pastes, do they greatly simplify the process of manual blade grinding?

 

[Jaeger]

Have you tried using diamond pastes, do they greatly simplify the process of manual blade grinding?

No, i used sandpaper, Rhynowet. It's okay but it took a bit of time. I have some silicium carbide paste and thought about using this on a leather strap but diamond paste is a great idea what kind of paste do you use? Thankful for every tipp

 

[Andrei]

I have a set of six pastes of different grain sizes, there are also different laps, and a lot also depends on the lap, they are made of steel, cast iron, brass, copper, hardwoods, and for the smallest pastes I use plain paper. There are many nuances with diamond paste and it’s hard to describe working with it in a nutshell, but the speed of work compensates for all the inconveniences .

 

[Jaeger]

Thanks for that @Andrei
I really appreciate that! I'll do some research about it and will try it out

 

[Jaeger]

After spending two weeks (about an hour in the late evenings per day in real time ) on handsanding the blade i realized that this is not working! The finish i want was not possible. It's a good way to do it on high carbon steel but high alloyed steel.... no way!
After receiving fresh ceramic belts in higher grits i finished it with 120 grit and 800 grit scotch Brite. That's what I want and I'm really happy with it! Overall it was a great experience for me to getting into the high alloy universe and I lernt allot. So with the next ones I think I know what I have to do

 

[Jaeger]

The sandwich is roughed out. I secure them with two hidden pins. Logo is also etched.