Lacquer - Remove or Wear Off?

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Do you intentionally remove the lacquer coating or let it wear off over time?

  • I remove it all

    Votes: 23 85.2%
  • I just let it wear off over time

    Votes: 3 11.1%
  • Other

    Votes: 1 3.7%

  • Total voters
    27

HumbleHomeCook

Embrace your knifesculinity!
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What is your preference for knife blades shipped with lacquer coatings? I know some say it needs to be removed straight away and others say just to let it wear off. This is something I've never had to deal with before but there's some offerings I like that are coated.

For those who remove it, how do you do so? Lacquer thinner with the handle well protected?

Does the removal process itself pose any risk to kurochi finishes? Not meaning exposing the finish over time but the specific act of removing the lacquer through whatever means.

As always, thanks in advance.
 
Get the 100% acetone polish remover or equivalent. Many products contain additives such as aloe that make the lacquer harder to remove, so check the label.
I would be cautious using these products on Ku finish as it can remove that too if its an applied cosmetic treatment.
 
Lacquer has to be revomove before 1st time using, unless you like the lacquer inside the food, example stir fry lacquer fried rice, lacquer steak 😜😜
 
Yep... as said above - lacquer removal with acetone will affect cosmetic KU finishes. And it doesn't look great tbh.

I tend to leave it, or remove just on the bottom half of a cleaver, and leave the KU part.
 
Dumb question: Why would they use lacquer in the first place?
 
Makes sense I guess... Seems too permanent though, when a little oil should work fine...
 
Makes sense I guess... Seems too permanent though, when a little oil should work fine...
Oil isn't failsafe. The blades can be removed, wiped, test cut, perspired on or whatever whilst at the retailer. Some blades will corrode as soon as look at them if not careful. That said I don't see the point on Ku knives. Expensive Honyaki? Definitely.
 
Oil isn't failsafe. The blades can be removed, wiped, test cut, perspired on or whatever whilst at the retailer. Some blades will corrode as soon as look at them if not careful. That said I don't see the point on Ku knives. Expensive Honyaki? Definitely.
I agree, for KU knives makes no sense to put lacquer protect from corrosion. camelia oil should be fine as the purpose of KU is to reduce the chance of corrosion. But definitely need lacquer on the Honyaki while transit.
 
Anyone know if Ashi carbon blades come with lacquer? Doesn't look like it to me but I'm curious as it's very unreactive so far.
 
Should be easy to tell. There will be light refraction (rainbow effect) and if you rub your fingernail along the blade it will feel like plastic. Also warmer to the touch.
 
Anyone know if Ashi carbon blades come with lacquer? Doesn't look like it to me but I'm curious as it's very unreactive so far.
Yes, the ones I've seen do. There are a few accounts of wh2 knives not bein reactive not taking patina, etc. Some people who've experienced this even claimed it was due to superior heat treat, it was lacquer every time. Not a whole lot in wh2 to make it stainless.
 
Yes, the ones I've seen do. There are a few accounts of wh2 knives not bein reactive not taking patina, etc. Some people who've experienced this even claimed it was due to superior heat treat, it was lacquer every time. Not a whole lot in wh2 to make it stainless.
That's what has me wondering. It's not very obvious if it's there (can't feel it and no colour) but the fact it's so unreactive seems odd. I'll get some acetone and see what happens. Thanks!
 
Meh. I imagine 99.9% of people who buy something with lacquer are not going to be removing it... it ain't gonna kill you. I put markedly more dangerous things into my body on a pretty much daily basis.

(Obviously do whatever one fancies, but really... lacquer is gonna be fine!)
 
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