lets have a new razor thread.

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KO88 said:
I shouldn't show this at home... I was chasing a couple and they were part of a bundle. I end up like this (+3 another picture +1 another)
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looks like at least a few grands in razors there is you sell them separately.

polish up the japanese ones. and you might get 100-150 or so. from the right person. i wouldn't pay more than 50 for them though.

also the green spanish one. that will fetch some money. maybe 150. or more. for the right customer.

also the very curved japanese ones will fetch some money. the black one maybe 2-300. maybe less? maybe more?

i dont know. there is a few grand on that table at least. if sold to the right people.

i'm willing to give a 50-100 for 1 of the less extravagant ones. sight unseen. maybe the red one in the lower right corner. or the yellow one lower left corner.

and yes, i'm the wrong person to sell these too. because i dont really see the "collector" value in them. i dont regard these as exotic at all. they are all 1900eds. but i will pay though.
 
inferno said:
looks like at least a few grands in razors there is you sell them separately.

polish up the japanese ones. and you might get 100-150 or so. from the right person. i wouldn't pay more than 50 for them though.

also the green spanish one. that will fetch some money. maybe 150. or more. for the right customer.

also the very curved japanese ones will fetch some money. the black one maybe 2-300. maybe less? maybe more?

i dont know. there is a few grand on that table at least. if sold to the right people.

i'm willing to give a 50-100 for 1 of the less extravagant ones. sight unseen. maybe the red one in the lower right corner. or the yellow one lower left corner.

and yes, i'm the wrong person to sell these too. because i dont really see the "collector" value in them. i dont regard these as exotic at all. they are all 1900eds. but i will pay though.
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The green Spanish is 14 Novodur if you know someone selling it for 150 in great shape just let me know 🙃

My point wasn't making money on razors but finding more Tanifujis (Cape, Maxfli, Spalding...) which I like...

I've tried only one of those the Yama and after 3k 6k 13k and Jnat progression, the shave was brilliant!

But true is that I will sell couple. Not Tanifujis and not Filarmonicas. One Saito sk3 I mistakenly bought 2x 🙃
 
i just mean that you could sell these for a bit of money. especially the swoopy saitos.

if they are rust free. they will fetch more.

i'd guess these are all 1920-1950 or so production and also mass production. might be outliers. so not super exotic. but still good stuff.

personally i collect sheffields with cool shapes/patterns. i like wedge grinds, since these are repairable 10 times over if corroded. its a lot of metal there. that you can grind away. these are worth it for me.
 
KO88 said:
The green Spanish is 14 Novodur if you know someone selling it for 150 in great shape just let me know 🙃
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try polishing up the blade and the handle and see if you can sell it. everybody loves those spanish ones these days. i have 0 of them though. i just dont find them special enough to spend time on. my goal is not to sell but to own and use. for fun basically. i mean who the f shaves with straights because they have to. its quite slow.
 
I haven’t used the Rockwell 6S, but I love the weight. No titanium for this guy. It’s the hefty razors for me.
 
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Err... I made a kangaroo strop out of a scrap I bought the other day when there was a leather shop next to the pub. You could probably do it with a pair of scissors in about 5 minutes.

034E7E6D-FC31-4FEC-9CCA-4775AB532A35.jpeg


9CFF652A-BBA8-484A-927F-348CDB28275D.jpeg
 
Where to start?!

On the last strop on leather, the “kihera” were sticky with the leather. I guessed a good sign.

Yes!!! HHT4 silent killer. Epic shave! Razor is small but uaa the edge! Very happy with it. Was scared ahh...

I honed it on:
3k Chosera
6k Nanohone
13k Sigma select

Razor Nakayama with atoma slurry first then plain water.
Final strop Cordovan 80k (on pic is 77)
41CEC06F-3314-4F83-98BB-172F5F903B66.jpeg
6F1E0F8F-5868-49D9-B177-78887BAAD630.jpeg
2235A004-BDE8-4576-BB58-586581ED6C6A.jpeg
 
A bit off-topic, and not meaning to derail this thread but, has anyone ever re-purposed straight razor blades? Using perhaps a damaged/chipped blade and making an EDC or something useful in the kitchen or office? Or even as a display piece? TIA
 
Ericfg said:
A bit off-topic, and not meaning to derail this thread but, has anyone ever re-purposed straight razor blades? Using perhaps a damaged/chipped blade and making an EDC or something useful in the kitchen or office? Or even as a display piece? TIA
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I haven't personally, but lots of people have, and it's perfectly doable. Probably just wouldn't want anything with too hollow a grind I imagine. Whatcha got in mind...?
 
just wanted to give an update on the acid bath stuff in ti. so actually corroding hss steel out of ti is not a fast process.

i found that putting some 12% hydrogen peroxide in the mix speeded the process up. the 30% hcl only seems to last a few hours.
also its good to keep everything horizontal, since the iron oxide that is produced can then flow in/out of the part. and new acid can get in.
hdpe plastic containers is good for this. i think it took about 3 days to melt out the tap. and about a week to melt out the drill bit. they both came out in pieces.
it might go faster if you mix in some water. but dont quote me on that. i just get the feeling that whatever you are trying to dissolve needs something to dissolve into.

well. just pouring acid in the threaded hole didn't do much to be honest. it wasn't until i filled the whole container up with 50/50 water/acid and then some hydrogen peroxide that i started to see actual results. it still only lasts for a few hours.

------------------

the rocca issue. muhle warrantied my rocca head. because of material flaws and the alignment issue.
but the new head they sent me also had the same alignment issue. no ****. i think i can tilt the blade about 5 degrees or so.
and while this might not be the end of the world. i think this should not happen on a cnc razor.

basically what they did is this: they machined the tabs to the blade dimensions when its laying flat.then its tight.

but in the razor, while in use the blade is curved very much.
and that also makes the aligning area much wider. maybe 0,15 to 0,2mm wider, since the blade is now bent in that area.
so now you a real possibility of misaligning the blade and that 0,15mm or so will result in about +-0,8-1mm left-right difference (up-down). and this will definitely affect your shaving. no ****. you increase the exposure by 0,5mm or so. lol

but yeah its not a big deal if you are used to DE razors you just adjust it by eye. but still i dont think its very good for a cnc:ed razor. and i have woked as a cnc operator/programmer. machining steel. several hundreds of kilos a day.

------

basically i was gonna send this razor to my cousin, but now i have to go there and instruct.

----------

the upside is that i got a slightly defective rocca head for free.
i immediately started to polish it with p1000 and p1500 paper and now its really nice.

-------------------

i also ordered a blackland gem razor. the sabre. i like some sabre rattling so i wanted a sabre.
we'll see how that one does.

i will post a review after a few uses. is it better than DE?? better than straights??

who knows. all i know is that im a bit poorer and that i will very soon own a sabre.

---------------------

oh yeah just wanted to get this info in.
about 3 days ago i fired up the feather as-d2 with 2 spacers under tha blade. and to my surprise it was so mild so i could go over the places where i missed several times. until it was all bbs. no ****. this must have been one of the closest shaves i have ever gotten. ever. and i was seriously contemplating just sending the **** to billhanna and be done with it. and let he sort it out :) just to **** with him. but now i see an actual use for the mild razors. very eye opening.

sorry bill :)

with the razors that i think are good, you really cant "go back" and finish up. you would be totally ruined then. but with the feather you can. even with the 2 spacers. and you can go back until its done. just like a mach 3. well almost like a mach 3. almost.


anyway this is the handle i made for the incoming sabre. 30 grams. 13mm. ti. on the polished rocca head.
i'm not saying the rocca head is ****. but you need to do some manual adjustments imo. and if u can live with that its just as good (well almost as good) as the EJ 316 and the timeless OC .95mm ti. its a very heavy head. at 40 grams. EJ is 32g. and 0.95mm ti timeless OC is 22g. so yeah its heavy no matter what handle you put on there.

rocca ti.JPG


p1500 finish rocca head.

rocca ti2.JPG
 
yeah just a funny sidenote on the ti handle. when the drill-bit was removed i shone flashlight in the hole. and i found out the ti part was cracked. 6al4v likes to crack instead of bending. even though this piece bulged radially when the drill snapped inside.

however i just put a new 10mm drill in there and drilled maybe 3-4mm extra and then all cracks were gone. no more cracks. and no cracks went to the outer diameter. they just went axially maybe 2mm.

in one way, this is an awesome meterial, and in another way, its, your worst nightmare, x2.
 
also i think you can see the alignment in the last pic. (non adjusted)

not very good...
 
BillHanna said:
I haven’t used the Rockwell 6S, but I love the weight. No titanium for this guy. It’s the hefty razors for me.
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hi bill i see you are looking for a daily.

i'll do a rundown of what i have.

ss r41. no way. way too aggressive.
rr gc84 jaws. no way.
edwin jagger 316. maybe. but probably no.
rocca. its more aggro than the jagger. just a bit.
timeless .95 oc. more aggro than the rocca and ej so no.

rr gc .84. could work. but i find it too agressive for daily use to be honest.
it pretends to be mild but in reality its not. feels mild though. you cant whip it around like mach 3.

feather asd2. maybe too mild. but this one is usable for daily shaves. i like to do 2 shims in mine and then it just becomes perfect.
maybe use 1 shim in it and that might be enough. for me at least with 2 shims this is as good as it gets. mild enough for daily, aggro enough for bbs.

then my latest buy. the rr bbs oc. its definitely works just the way it is. but now i've tried it with 2 shims and 1 shim. i think its best with 1 shim. now its perfect.
but even without shims its about as good as the feather with 1 shim. its a bit more tolerant with angles than the feather too.

so yeah i recommend those 3. the feather with 1-2 shims is ultra good and also the bbs oc with 1-2 shims. and even without them.
this is what a daily should be.

take care bill!
 
I have been looking at Timeless. I was thinking of getting a couple scratch and dent bronze plates and a cap, and pairing it with a heavy handle from west coast shaving. We'll see.
 
I've figured out blade gap and exposure are and are not important, but I've decided to play around and make a bunch of purchases of things I can sell, or don't mind sitting around. I'm just gonna use gap/exposure as a jumping off point, and have seven day trials.

I have a used Karve CB in the mail with a solid B plate, and the cheapo head from WCS coming with some handles from their sale.

As far as shims; just dull down a blade? Use a washer?
 
BillHanna said:
I have been looking at Timeless. I was thinking of getting a couple scratch and dent bronze plates and a cap, and pairing it with a heavy handle from west coast shaving. We'll see.
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from what i've read about timeless. the .68 or whatever it is. its very mild. i mean it could work. but its a lot of dough.
the .95 is way too aggro for daily imo unless you have a truly feather touch. my oc is smooth though. but it digs quite deep.

the bronze ones are supposedly quite aggressive. both the oc and sb. the oc is definitely ultra aggro. and with the sb you get ultra conflicting info. some say its mild (older posts) but now for the last 2 years or so most people seems to think its quite aggressive. too aggressive for daily if i'm reading things right. and i'm quite good at actually deciphering what people actually mean. personally i would stay away. but then again it could work out well for you. never tried any one of them.

now about the feather. this one feels ultra mild. and its almost impossible to cut yourself with it. the head design is very good. and its smooth.
i feel that for me its just a bit too mild. but the base design is good. very good. since you can always take it up a notch or 2 with shims.
for me with 2 shims and personna platinums this delivers a very very good shave. and you can use it every day. also the handle is very good and grippy.

i feel the bbs oc is very similar in action, but it looks cooler. its just a bit more aggro than the feather stock. ran it for a week with 2 shims and i think these were the best shaves i've ever had with a DE. smooth, no irritation, bbs, but mild enough for daily. but then i tried it with only 1 shim and now its even better. digs almost as deep imo. result is the same. but with even less irritation.

i also ran it for a few shaves without shims and its still good. better than the asd2 without shims. if the asd2 is 1 mild then this one is a 3. you can get a bbs out of it, but it wont last as long as when you shim it. maybe half the duration.

unshimmed the asd2 is a .70- .80mm or so gap, and negative exposure. but with 2 shims its a 1.x something and slightly positive exposure. just enough imo. the head shape and geometry still keeps it mild.

the bbs oc is positive exposure from the start. but i guess quite low gap. but it has a weird curved shape so i dont know if its really comparable. with 1 or 2 spacers its a lot more positive exposure. looks almost like a r41 now. but it shaves nothing like the harsh and ultra aggro r41. also the gap increases by about 0,2mm. i found 2 shims too be good but 1 better since it feels milder and smoother but provides almost the same result. and you can whip it around more carelessly. you can shave faster.
 
BillHanna said:
I've figured out blade gap and exposure are and are not important, but I've decided to play around and make a bunch of purchases of things I can sell, or don't mind sitting around. I'm just gonna use gap/exposure as a jumping off point, and have seven day trials.

I have a used Karve CB in the mail with a solid B plate, and the cheapo head from WCS coming with some handles from their sale.

As far as shims; just dull down a blade? Use a washer?
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i'm guessing the B will be too mild for you. unfortunately. most people that buy the b/c ones end up with the d/e ones. and they really wanted a mild one.


''''''''''''''''''

i just put a worn out blade one a coarse stone. grind off the whole bevel. then round it off so its not 90 deg sharp. takes about 5 minutes per blade or so.

protip. dull both sides first with some heavy cuts into a stone so you dont cut yourself when removing the bevel.
i think i remove about 0,5mm from each side.

dont remove more than the bevel imo. the wider the shim is the more it will stabilize you primary blade.

'''''''''''''''''''

i was against using shims before. well up to maybe 2 months ago. i tried it just to try it. but now i found out that i really like some head designs, but i want them just a bit more aggro. and this will provide just that. and i mean the manufacturers usually dont provide this. the is no asd2 B version... so you have to make it yourself.

the bbs oc i bought just because it looks cool. and i knew it was mild to begin with so i knew i could use it as a base for shims. this is now my fav all over.

and also: so what if you have to fiddle around with the shims. you only have to do it once a week. and you lose, what, an extra 30 seconds fiddling around with them.
this is a cheap way of getting what you really want imo. for me it has worked out well. and it will for you too.

i wish i could just email feather and tell them hey can you make me a 0,25mm higher gapped asd2. and rr and have them make me 0,125 mm higher gapped bbs oc. but lets face it. its not gonna happen.

2 blades are usually 0,25mm, 0,125mm each. some are thinner like nacets. i guess these are 0,1mm. room for experimentation here.
 
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